Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i've got trackvision. i've only done 1 clip with bad data.

http://www.vimeo.com/4835983

i still have to tidy up the dash. And traqmate (logger) are making a new firmware to fix the sync problem

Edited by sav man

More from the POV & Duncan last weekend: SAU NSW Track Day @ Oran Park

I know it's one of the more expensive options but I think it delivers - this is the third kind of set up we've run and have never had bad in-car with it. Best of all it's the easiest to set up and use - even non-techies like me can manage it!

LOL, unless you want to send it to India so i can take it to the UK...lol i think i just need to pony up and grab a Pov1.5. Only my earlier question regarding Ii there any real difference between the Pov 1.5s 720x480 and another camera i am looking at which has 720 x 576???

POVs are only about AUS$850 in the UK so planning on picking one up with a new helmet before my next track day

I've been playing with a couple of different "cheap" setup's.

If you're looking for the best solution < $150 then I think the best is to get a suction mount (ebay special) and a cheap point and shoot that does video. Quality of the video rises as the quality of the point and shoot.

Last year I bought an Oregon Scientific ATC2k. It's mounted on the front bar. The sound is horrible due to wind noise and being right next to the blow off (yes, I should plum back the atmo). The video tends to wash out, but the positive is that it is waterproof. Although how often do we honestly race in the rain? I just use this now for secondary video (e.g. postage stamp in the corner of the video).

Now my primary set-up is a point and shoot Casio EX-FC100 - it does 720 hd (and a lot more!). I'm very pleased with the quality of the video. Here is a video from the NSW Texi I took using using this setup:

(Video in the lower corner is from the ATC2k on the front bar "bumper cam")

It is really great for inside video but I'm a bit afraid to put my $400 camera mounted to the outside of the car.

The last set up is a CCD camera (reversing camera actually) hooked up to a camcorder kept in the glovebox. The CCD is a VERY cheap ebay special - about $40. Doesn't do sound so that is missing. The good thing is that it is small and I can put it pretty much anywhere on the car. I plan on doing some low slung behind the front wheel type shots. It is also weatherproof so have more options there. The image is only fair and the colors get washed out really easily. Also the auto iso adjust is a bit anoying because the image changes throughout as you go towards or away from the sun. Here is some video using that set-up:

Here is the type of mount I use for both. I was very surprised on the grip this little guy has. Had no problem with vibration and held the outside ccd camera @ 210 kph down the front straight! I just ordered two more off ebay for $15.

post-16200-1255036248_thumb.jpg

Bought mine direct from vio... pretty easy to deal with and received the next day (was in the US at the time).

edit: 600 or 650 for the moto kit with bits to hardwire to battery

Edited by DCIEVE
Now this looks the goods

Aim SmartyCam

Of course being AIM there is a bit of a price tag but would be well worth it and would keep it for a long time...

This looks terrific, and I have a CAN buss feed that I can send it. I think I will get one. Camera issue Fixed by the looks of it. :D

Now my primary set-up is a point and shoot Casio EX-FC100 - it does 720 hd (and a lot more!). I'm very pleased with the quality of the video. Here is a video from the NSW Texi I took using using this setup:

(Video in the lower corner is from the ATC2k on the front bar "bumper cam")

Considering this is a regular digital camera that can take video, be used every day of the week and costs only $350 it is as good as any of the $800+ dedicated track video cameras that will only ever get used on the track and no where else.

I think it is an absolute bargain.

I've got a $250 voucher for GoodGuys when I bought my tv, think I might have to throw in the extra $100 cash and buy 1 of these digital cameras with video recording for my next track outing.

Considering this is a regular digital camera that can take video, be used every day of the week and costs only $350 it is as good as any of the $800+ dedicated track video cameras that will only ever get used on the track and no where else.

That's pretty much the reason I bought mine. This Casio also does slow motion video. I can shoot 210 frames per second @ 480 x 360 res which is watchable. There are only a couple of consumer cameras that can do this that are under the $1000 price point. It also does 420 and 1000 fps but those are really unwatchable as the resolution drops to low.

It really does pretty good 720 hd video @ 1280 x 720 @ 30 fps with mono sound. One other drawback is that the maximum HD clip length is 10 minutes.

The only thing I wish it did better would be to be able to control the zoom while taking video. It's locked once you pres record. It also takes a bit to get use to the controls but that's because the camera does so much. Once you get used to it it's ok.

I also couldn't find many places in OZ that sell it. Even the camera shops. It's a real shame. I've owned lots of point and shoots but haven't had this much fun with one since digital photography first came out.

Oh, this is the place I bought mine on ebay. I was really impressed with the service for a Hong Kong based firm. The package you get is also very good including a large SD (you'll need it!) extra battery and little bag-o-goodies: LINK

Oh, other things it does that are unique:

Burst shot mode 30 x 6 megapixel shots in one second - catch that wheel lift over the ripples :)

Night shot mode that is better than any other camera I've seen - it uses the burst mode in high iso but then merges photos together to average an image

on top of that it's a pretty decent little still camera

Here's a couple of vids from Lakeside last week.

Specialised Driving Services kindly placed a new V Box Video in my car for a couple of session, I'm mighty impressed by it! Not cheap, but SDS is looking at putting on a rental fleet of these systems ;) Could be the go I reckon :down:

Interestingly Racelogic have just come out with a new cheaper version of the VBOX Video (Called VBOX Video Lite) - which is basically the same unit except it has a plastic casing, the secondary camera is a slightly lower resolution and it has different plugs - but will come in around $2K cheaper than the full unit (which if you price up a seperate camera, GPS logger and editing software is very comparable and yet this will be much easier to use).

Details - http://www.protechdevelopments.com.au/Data...B_Lite_DATA.pdf

Ah more like $2K (all the quotes I've had for the full VBOX Video with 2 cameras have been well over $4K).

Still POV = $1K, Driftbox - $900, Trckmate software = $200 - so as I said it works out comparable and thats only with 1 camera angle.

Has anyone tried using the track vision software before?

I'm going to try it out with the POV and a driftbox this weekend. It might be a cheaper option than Benny's super cool video box.

Trackvision is very flexible and gives great results... downside is the post event time for editing etc.

http://www.gjmaustralia.com/downloads/gjmIncar.wmv

http://www.gjmaustralia.com/downloads/cethana_0001.wmv

Think one of those may have Trackvision...

If not can upload one for you

TT984

  • 10 months later...

Awesome new HD In Car camera here now. Hi All. RaceRecall is now the Australian distributor for the Radcam HDPro. Full 1080P with internal/external power and internal/external microphone inputs. It's basically like a POV.1.5, but in full HD. Kit costs $649 with Race and Rally Packs available. It's already beed chosen for the new Aus series of Top Gear Australia and will be the onboard camera of choice for the ARC & ANDRA Pro Drag Racing on One HD. http://www.racerecall.com/radcam_hdpro-1.html and HD Video Samples

p036_1_00.jpg

Edited by martyboy26

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...