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Got my RB20DET gearbox mounted up to the back of my FJ now. I'm happy. Standard tailshaft should be able to be used just need to cut the dust shroud of the front of it, gearbox mount sits about an inch back, and the shifter comes out about an inch forward. So it's all pretty straight forward stuff, 3 elongated holes in the bell housing and it bolts straight up. Slave cylinder and clutch fork is the same as Fj stuff. Gotta love nissan interchangability.

Coil overs and r33 brakes mounted in the front of the car too, which I think needs be raised a little as the wheels sits in the guard thats still jacked off the ground too, although with tein HE's I don't think they should move much when put on the ground.

Anyone know of any brands which supply decent sized swaybars for r30's? Whiteline only have bars which are smaller than what I already have.

Was there any clearence issues in the tunnel where the stick comes through . And what combination of rubber boots works ?

Ta A .

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Nope no problems at all with clearence, The only the thing I can see is that if you are looking to take the shifter off which I may be for short shifter, the hole isnt long enough forwards to get it out, the box may need to be dropped or hole made bigger. I havent got the interior console in yet, which may take some sorting out to get it all sealing with out much road noise, but we shall see how I go.

Yas - like i say mufflers are round about 250-300. as far as where to go to get the rest done, lots of people speak highly of QuikFit in Morley. I know this may be a long way from you, but the guys there are supposed to be the best, so dont just got to another QuikFit near you coz they wont be as good so ive heard!! teheyre pretty cheap too. maybe be around 600 or so for the rest of the system.

get your exhaust done and then buy a bleed valve and bigger fuel pump and set boost to around 12psi and ur car should go good! need a boost gauge too obviously to set your boost level since the stock one in the dash wont read that high!

Morley? Long way? it's just up the road from my hood! :cheers:

600 for the exhaust system, then 250-300 for the muffler? i spoke to a friend on the weekend that drives an R33 (in fact, he's on this forum) he said u can get mild steel exhaust system then just whack on a stainless steel muffler on the end of it, seems as if there's a few around like that blah blah?

That 4 on the boost gauge on the very left of the dash, thats in psi?

with the bleed valve, yeh heard of that before, my friend got one put into his 200sx at cypher cos it was dodgy or something? *scratches head*

ive done the conversion a few years back, im still using s13 struts to this day, work a treat

is that with the r32 brakes at all? just bought a set of r32 gtst front and rear rotors and calipars, next will be the s-13 coilovers and hubs should have them fitted over the next month or so. i'll just do the fronts to start with, this means i'll have a brand new set of hr30 DBA slotted rotors, konis adj front shocks, king springs and pads (maybe a front white line sway bar if it dosent fit)for sale cheap all done less than 100kms since installed. :)

There are certain tolerances for turbo shaft play. I think its about 0.2 of a something. If you need your turbo inspected because of the incident on the dyno, I would suggest send it to MTQ down your way as I've sent turbos there in the past and they are excellent at what they do.

A lot of other places rebuild all sorts of turbos (i.e truck etc) and if there is one bit of movement in the turbo, they will say it needs rebuilding. They will then get the customers business, when in actual fact, the turbo is still in good working order and could last another 3 months or 3 years - a turbos life expectancy all depends on the application and type of use.

Take this for an example: I've got a 25/30 on the shelf to bolt onto RB series motors, and there is the slightest shaft movement side to side - this turbo is fully rebuilt at a cost of over $1200. Customers have looked at it and said we've done a good job of cleaning it up to hide the fact it is rooted coz of the slight movement. So even "brand new" turbos have movement in them, as there is no oil in the bearings.

Guys,

speaking as a moderator

How about starting to break up this thread and start posting new questions as new threads. Perhaps start each new thread with "R30 - " or something if you want to make R30 stuff obvious..

49 pages is a bit of a hike for anyone trying to find useful information..

Thanks guys, i am sure you all understand..

Kent

Guys,  

speaking as a moderator

How about starting to break up this thread and start posting new questions as new threads. Perhaps start each new thread with "R30 - " or something if you want to make R30 stuff obvious..

49 pages is a bit of a hike for anyone trying to find useful information..

Thanks guys, i am sure you all understand..

Kent

i was going to go through the pages and edit my first post to put some kind of key to where to find the different info but as you said 47 pages is a bit more than i can deal with. :D

Can we have a dedicated R30 section?  (Instead of classic skylines?)  I can't really complain as I haven't donated a cent

Why? don't you think the R30 is a classic? :rofl:

as this section is still fairly new, creation of new subjects won't be made until we can get some good numbers to support those sections, i am sure you would understand that there is no point having 100's of sections nobody is bothered looking through..

It helps if you post new threads, not just on the same one (hint hint :))

oh and shame on you for not donating! :Bang: seriously though.. i wonder how many of you actually realise that 1 person ultimately pays to keep this site running (and you should see how much traffic this site goes through!).. fairs fair, everyone should help out especially if you do get some benefits out of the forums (and i am sure most of you do).. no matter how much or little you can afford.. it all helps! anyway.. rant over !!

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