Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'll try one when I get rid of my rb20

Just got back from the gold coast where I drove a stock HCR32 kouki in Dark Blue Pearl with the dark chrome grill garnish, very pretty car.

hey, I have 34 gtt 25neo!! Chasing around 350rwkw with a good response, which turbo you would recommend?

So far I got

Fmic

3inch tbe

Nistune with flex tune 98/85

Hpx afm in a 3inch pipe

Walbro 460

1000cc injectors

Avcr boost controller

Cheers

350rwkws on E85 fuel you can use our new ATR43G3SAT model. You will need a very big exhaust and a very free flow cooler to run ATR45SAT, that can get close to 350rwkws on P98 fuel.

Hey Tao. Have you posted P98 power figures of your new 21U turbo? If not could you please?

I'd imagine the OP housing would make minimal gains over the 21U?

What size is your exhaust and what mufflers etc?

rear.jpg

Our high flowed T517Z. 507awkws @ 22psi E85 fuel internally gated, on a built RB26dett by Forged Performance in SA. Looking at stiffer actuators and run up to 30psi. Hopefully be seeing 600awkws.

power.jpg

  • Like 1

The best I've got was 287rwkws P98 fuel on 21psi. R34 GTT Neo engine. with Exhaust Tee and PWR cooler:

power.jpg

boost.jpg

How is the exhaust T going after all this time? I was a bit skeptical of the spring loosening up over time and when the exhaust gets hot.

^ you're better off using an external gate with a weak spring to emulate what Tao is doing with that flapper. A few guys have done that (not here) but Google!

^ you're better off using an external gate with a weak spring to emulate what Tao is doing with that flapper. A few guys have done that (not here) but Google!

I wouldn't be doing the mod ;) just curious as to how it's held up over time as it's different than the ex and int types.

I know a few people who have tried this with external and internal gate mechanisms, but they have all had problems.

Well, the exhaust Tee is bleeding with not as compressed air as what it is inside the exhaust manifold. So it needs to be alot bigger. There are many ways of doing it, the most popular I've seen was that window switch motor controlled valve on ebay. That doesn't work very well as the motor gets overheated by exhaust gas.

Alternatively you can use an actuator to control the valve, which is very reliable, or just some good high tensile springs. Its a simple device, but that definitely shown an improvement.

Hey Tao, What would you recomend for a VH45DE engine? pref in single config. Street driven so reasonable response around 400rwkw minimum range?

For this engine you can run one of our ATR45 in a 1.06 rear housing externally gated. On E85 fuel that will be plenty for 400rwkws

Also vid sent in from Jason using one of our prototype ATR43 in his 1JZ, the goal was a responsive 300rwkws on Pump fuel with out VVTI. It is not an easy task as I originally predicted, project is still on going.

Vid shown 320rwkws on E85 fuel @ 22psi

Yes. Rebuild Using using a bush bearing core will cost u 700 or a Garrett bb core for 1050. Will require braided oil line and mico filter removed for either cores

Ok and what suporting mods are required i have fmi 3"dump exhust can this turbo b utilised without a tune can you set boost to afr's ratio

Wut?

Not tune, set boost to afr? What you mean man?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...