Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How does the dump fit with a different core on the turbo? or are the cores the same length?

Every thing fits the way it was, they are still your OEM housings. The T2x bearing housing is few mms short. But it doesn't affect installation.

Can possibly high flow it with a BDR351 Comp wheel working with GT45 turbine wheel. Should pump out 1200HP. What sort of housing is it in?

not sure on the rear housing size havent checked yet i would only want it to flow 1000hp anyway would the rear wheel even need changing for that?

not sure on the rear housing size havent checked yet i would only want it to flow 1000hp anyway would the rear wheel even need changing for that?

Depending on the engine size, for 1000HP you will need a 1.2 A/R turbine housing, and 87mm 85T turbine wheel. The T04Z runns of a 74mm 76T turbine wheel which is rated to 700HP, so it needs to go up in size.

Either way its not a cheap exercise so unless your T04Z is blown, its probably worth selling it and buy the T51R which we can supply at a very reasonable price.

Every thing fits the way it was, they are still your OEM housings. The T2x bearing housing is few mms short. But it doesn't affect installation.

My concern with that is if both cores ar 2-3mm shorter than the gap between the turbos opens up 4-6mm, thats enough to mean that double layered gaskets will be needed or it will leak like a sieve.

Very good result for stock Rb20det, how come its so wavy on the top? ignition problems?

It's a hub dyno so they don't have the power dampened by the rollers which usually smooths out the curve... Plus RB20's always have a bit of a wavy top end

No ignition problems at all (had a lot more boost it in and didn't miss at all)

This was with a G2 in .63, My engine blew up on dyno during the next run. Even thou that made the power and response, I still prefer .82 for high performance RB25det. unless if that was a 3576 profile.

.63 works out ok on RB20dets.

You find Rb25det with .82 rear makes power lot easier with less boost and lot less heat.

What would lag be like though? Could it make 250kw at 120kph / 4500rpm ish like that does?

only cos for me i wouldnt be at the top of 4th much on track if at all (drift), or road so thats why i was thinking the .63 could be better for that reason?

Edited by raZ1911

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...