Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hahahaha my suggestion was in no way serious :) I'd hate to think what kind of distorted readings the AFM would get when placed directly in front of the turbo inlet anyway.

So does anyone make an alloy one with bov/breather return that isn't $300 ?

Does anyone make an alloy one with bov/breather return that is good? I didnt know there were any at all, at any cost.

I just made one up myself... Just get a 3" 90 deg bend and weld on a few plugs then use radiator hose to connect between original return pipe and the custom intake

Thats exactly what i did. $10 scrap exhaust bend from an exahust shop. cut the bov return and oil breather metal return pipes off (about 30mm cut off) turned them around and welded them onto the exhaust bend, then 2 small hoses (about 80mm) long to join up the now cut bov return and oil breather.

Chasers made mine because, as other people have found, the rev210 mod does have it's limits. 2 x 45 degree bends were used in the end i think, they wanted it as straight as possible.

They did say it was tricky to get it to work, which must be what all of you guys are talking about.

I have the standard airbox and standard BOV, plum-backed.

Wasn't cheap, $300+, but still let me run everything as it was and in it's most standard configuration, whilst being the straightest possible pipe.

that should all be past tense, as i no longer have the car :)

Chasers made mine because, as other people have found, the rev210 mod does have it's limits. 2 x 45 degree bends were used in the end i think, they wanted it as straight as possible.

They did say it was tricky to get it to work, which must be what all of you guys are talking about.

I have the standard airbox and standard BOV, plum-backed.

Wasn't cheap, $300+, but still let me run everything as it was and in it's most standard configuration, whilst being the straightest possible pipe.

that should all be past tense, as i no longer have the car :)

Thats the next level of complexity again as you have to connect it up to the standard airbox. I am just talking about a pod filter so it doesnt have to be as precise.

I made THIS for the same reasons as above.

All you need is some alloy pipes and a welder.

I made this one 2.5" on the turbo end and 3" on the AFM end so no need for silicone reducers (ugly)

I made THIS for the same reasons as above.

All you need is some alloy pipes and a welder.

I made this one 2.5" on the turbo end and 3" on the AFM end so no need for silicone reducers (ugly)

Good to see another way of doing it!

However, for the guys with larger turbos I am sure it would be beneficial to go straight to 3" as quickly as possible from the turbo. I know its the not exactly the same but its sort of like a bellmouth if it goes straight to the largest diameter. Thats my theory anyway.

Had car retuned today after I had a few issues fixed up...I'll be providing Stao with the dyno sheet to post up first once I pick the car up, but all I can say is that I'm very happy with the figure. Considering I asked the tuner to be as conservative as he could and very safe up top, it still made stupid power. He was skeptical of the turbo since he'd never heard of them before, but was pleasantly surprised (or astounded moreso) with the power it made.

Since it was running without any boost control, boost came up to ~17psi initially and bled down to ~15.9psi. Tuner took out as much timing up top as he could before it would begin having a negative affect, and it finished up with 11.5AFR. Not sure of the rpm yet, but at 15.9psi it made 294rwkw.

Safe to say I'm stoked with this result.

Thats awesome, can't wait to see the dyno graph.

Mine's going back on the dyno on monday too! last tank of fuel before i switch to E85 :D

You're a prick. I want some ethanol action :no:

Who's tuning it for Ethanol?

Had car retuned today after I had a few issues fixed up...I'll be providing Stao with the dyno sheet to post up first once I pick the car up, but all I can say is that I'm very happy with the figure. Considering I asked the tuner to be as conservative as he could and very safe up top, it still made stupid power. He was skeptical of the turbo since he'd never heard of them before, but was pleasantly surprised (or astounded moreso) with the power it made.

Since it was running without any boost control, boost came up to ~17psi initially and bled down to ~15.9psi. Tuner took out as much timing up top as he could before it would begin having a negative affect, and it finished up with 11.5AFR. Not sure of the rpm yet, but at 15.9psi it made 294rwkw.

Safe to say I'm stoked with this result.

Sounds good! Keen to see your boost graph so don't forget to get a print out while you are there :no:

Also try and get the runs printed in rpm if you can

Not sure mate. I'll go back to Ed on monday to get a "before" and base tune.

Then I'll tune the AFR's myself and up the timing a bit. Then bepending on how Ed goes with the before tune i might go back to him.

Otherwise i dunno

As some already seen the ceramic ball bearing high flow results. This is based on a stock Rb25det with factory head, cams and cam gears with forged bottom. Turbo did have some unexpected boost creep issues due to a newer designed waste gating system.

Tuning video footage of 4x consecutive runs. with consistent 321rwkws:

op6highflow321rwkw.jpg

op6highflow321rwkw2.jpg

op6highflow321rwkwboost.jpg

Turbo has been pulled apart, we are analyzing its bearing components and modifying its turbine wheel refer to some skeptics for faster torque gain.

Also we will be testing some cage less air craft ceramic bearings for even faster spool time.

post-27032-1287745479_thumb.jpg

Also for people whom's interested in sleeving stock rubber pipe with metal and hopping for great HP. Below is a dyno comparison to show you it doesn't work. and please don't waste time trying. (The drop at 6500RPMs was from operator back off per discussion earlier)

puvsrick.jpg

I would highly recommend going fora 4inch metal intake pipe with pod. All ATR43G3/4 units will be now built with a .70 comp housing with a 4inch inlet unless special request.

Since I got no idea if Stao is gonna chuck these up or not, here's the dyno charts from my tune this arvo. I don't get a torque chart tho :ermm:

One shows power+boost, one shows power+AFR. They've been overlayed onto the graph from my first tune when I was having boost issues. The RED line is from today (though I dare say that will be obvious lol)

post-60560-1287746563_thumb.jpg

post-60560-1287746602_thumb.jpg

Big thanks again to Stao and his great work, another happy customer here :)

Thanks for uploading. I was about to re-size them first. Unfortunately above turbo had some shipping damaged to the actuator lever which caused it not been able to shut in the earlier run. Great to see thing's back in working order. Hopping to see more power at 20psi :ermm:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
    • I started removing the tank a while back with the intent to give it a proper clean. Got to a bolt that I couldn't undo completely due to a diff being in the way, so just said f**k it and siphoned the gluggy old fuel out and called it a day. Looking it the tank it looks less corroded than the one in the pics for that billet hanger from Frenchy's anyway. Isn't it the fuel filters job to worry about this stuff? I scraped off most the crusty shit of the hanger but will give it another go before reinstall coz maybe the fuel and return pipes are also full of gunk  
    • Pretty sure it is a common fault. I believe this is the only part you need, but don't quote me as I don't have a V36.  I also believe it is a bit of a pain to change and the device needs to be encoded to the car once it is replaced, so may need someone with the right tools. Buy Genuine Nissan 48700JF00D (48700-JF00D) Lock Set-Steering. Prices, fast shipping, photos, weight - Amayama
×
×
  • Create New...