Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hahahaha my suggestion was in no way serious :) I'd hate to think what kind of distorted readings the AFM would get when placed directly in front of the turbo inlet anyway.

So does anyone make an alloy one with bov/breather return that isn't $300 ?

Does anyone make an alloy one with bov/breather return that is good? I didnt know there were any at all, at any cost.

I just made one up myself... Just get a 3" 90 deg bend and weld on a few plugs then use radiator hose to connect between original return pipe and the custom intake

Thats exactly what i did. $10 scrap exhaust bend from an exahust shop. cut the bov return and oil breather metal return pipes off (about 30mm cut off) turned them around and welded them onto the exhaust bend, then 2 small hoses (about 80mm) long to join up the now cut bov return and oil breather.

Chasers made mine because, as other people have found, the rev210 mod does have it's limits. 2 x 45 degree bends were used in the end i think, they wanted it as straight as possible.

They did say it was tricky to get it to work, which must be what all of you guys are talking about.

I have the standard airbox and standard BOV, plum-backed.

Wasn't cheap, $300+, but still let me run everything as it was and in it's most standard configuration, whilst being the straightest possible pipe.

that should all be past tense, as i no longer have the car :)

Chasers made mine because, as other people have found, the rev210 mod does have it's limits. 2 x 45 degree bends were used in the end i think, they wanted it as straight as possible.

They did say it was tricky to get it to work, which must be what all of you guys are talking about.

I have the standard airbox and standard BOV, plum-backed.

Wasn't cheap, $300+, but still let me run everything as it was and in it's most standard configuration, whilst being the straightest possible pipe.

that should all be past tense, as i no longer have the car :)

Thats the next level of complexity again as you have to connect it up to the standard airbox. I am just talking about a pod filter so it doesnt have to be as precise.

I made THIS for the same reasons as above.

All you need is some alloy pipes and a welder.

I made this one 2.5" on the turbo end and 3" on the AFM end so no need for silicone reducers (ugly)

I made THIS for the same reasons as above.

All you need is some alloy pipes and a welder.

I made this one 2.5" on the turbo end and 3" on the AFM end so no need for silicone reducers (ugly)

Good to see another way of doing it!

However, for the guys with larger turbos I am sure it would be beneficial to go straight to 3" as quickly as possible from the turbo. I know its the not exactly the same but its sort of like a bellmouth if it goes straight to the largest diameter. Thats my theory anyway.

Had car retuned today after I had a few issues fixed up...I'll be providing Stao with the dyno sheet to post up first once I pick the car up, but all I can say is that I'm very happy with the figure. Considering I asked the tuner to be as conservative as he could and very safe up top, it still made stupid power. He was skeptical of the turbo since he'd never heard of them before, but was pleasantly surprised (or astounded moreso) with the power it made.

Since it was running without any boost control, boost came up to ~17psi initially and bled down to ~15.9psi. Tuner took out as much timing up top as he could before it would begin having a negative affect, and it finished up with 11.5AFR. Not sure of the rpm yet, but at 15.9psi it made 294rwkw.

Safe to say I'm stoked with this result.

Thats awesome, can't wait to see the dyno graph.

Mine's going back on the dyno on monday too! last tank of fuel before i switch to E85 :D

You're a prick. I want some ethanol action :no:

Who's tuning it for Ethanol?

Had car retuned today after I had a few issues fixed up...I'll be providing Stao with the dyno sheet to post up first once I pick the car up, but all I can say is that I'm very happy with the figure. Considering I asked the tuner to be as conservative as he could and very safe up top, it still made stupid power. He was skeptical of the turbo since he'd never heard of them before, but was pleasantly surprised (or astounded moreso) with the power it made.

Since it was running without any boost control, boost came up to ~17psi initially and bled down to ~15.9psi. Tuner took out as much timing up top as he could before it would begin having a negative affect, and it finished up with 11.5AFR. Not sure of the rpm yet, but at 15.9psi it made 294rwkw.

Safe to say I'm stoked with this result.

Sounds good! Keen to see your boost graph so don't forget to get a print out while you are there :no:

Also try and get the runs printed in rpm if you can

Not sure mate. I'll go back to Ed on monday to get a "before" and base tune.

Then I'll tune the AFR's myself and up the timing a bit. Then bepending on how Ed goes with the before tune i might go back to him.

Otherwise i dunno

As some already seen the ceramic ball bearing high flow results. This is based on a stock Rb25det with factory head, cams and cam gears with forged bottom. Turbo did have some unexpected boost creep issues due to a newer designed waste gating system.

Tuning video footage of 4x consecutive runs. with consistent 321rwkws:

op6highflow321rwkw.jpg

op6highflow321rwkw2.jpg

op6highflow321rwkwboost.jpg

Turbo has been pulled apart, we are analyzing its bearing components and modifying its turbine wheel refer to some skeptics for faster torque gain.

Also we will be testing some cage less air craft ceramic bearings for even faster spool time.

post-27032-1287745479_thumb.jpg

Also for people whom's interested in sleeving stock rubber pipe with metal and hopping for great HP. Below is a dyno comparison to show you it doesn't work. and please don't waste time trying. (The drop at 6500RPMs was from operator back off per discussion earlier)

puvsrick.jpg

I would highly recommend going fora 4inch metal intake pipe with pod. All ATR43G3/4 units will be now built with a .70 comp housing with a 4inch inlet unless special request.

Since I got no idea if Stao is gonna chuck these up or not, here's the dyno charts from my tune this arvo. I don't get a torque chart tho :ermm:

One shows power+boost, one shows power+AFR. They've been overlayed onto the graph from my first tune when I was having boost issues. The RED line is from today (though I dare say that will be obvious lol)

post-60560-1287746563_thumb.jpg

post-60560-1287746602_thumb.jpg

Big thanks again to Stao and his great work, another happy customer here :)

Thanks for uploading. I was about to re-size them first. Unfortunately above turbo had some shipping damaged to the actuator lever which caused it not been able to shut in the earlier run. Great to see thing's back in working order. Hopping to see more power at 20psi :ermm:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
    • Cam seals go hard. It's a very old car.
×
×
  • Create New...