Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If it truly has full boost at 3k I really doubt it'll make over 250kw

garret who have far more engineering experience can't even make a turbo that does that, sorry to be negative but I just can't see it being true.

If it truly has full boost at 3k I really doubt it'll make over 250kw

garret who have far more engineering experience can't even make a turbo that does that, sorry to be negative but I just can't see it being true.

See turbochargers engineered in this project are solely for RB25det engines, Garrett would make a turbo to suit a variety of engines. There are room for improvement when designs becomes specialized.

At moment it feels like some where around the 280rwkws mark with very steady torque. Its drives very differently to any other turbos I've engineered or experienced so far. I'm expecting an out standing result.

If this turbo makes 280kw with full boost at 3k I will buy one in the near future, providing it holds the power to at least 6k on less than or equal to 20psi.

This will be a garret killer if it makes those results!

my current highflow makes full boost at ~3k but only makes 240kw on 18psi, so if I can get 40kw over that with the same response, holy shit!

What are the main engineering differences with this turbo over previous designs ?

Edited by Rolls

Always watching Stao's progress, keep up the good work mate.

full boost at 3k and 280rwkw+ may be possible as thats exactly what I have now... just with a Garrett stamp and a slightly higher price tag.

Always watching Stao's progress, keep up the good work mate.

full boost at 3k and 280rwkw+ may be possible as thats exactly what I have now... just with a Garrett stamp and a slightly higher price tag.

Dyno sheet please

Always watching Stao's progress, keep up the good work mate.

full boost at 3k and 280rwkw+ may be possible as thats exactly what I have now... just with a Garrett stamp and a slightly higher price tag.

NA + turbo does not count.

Nope - nothing special, no E85.

tuner said not much difference between what he has seen with normal turbo motor and the slightly higher compression NA with my turbo.

post-36975-0-79536600-1311255089_thumb.jpg this was with an electronic boost controller

post-36975-0-72596700-1311255208_thumb.jpg this was with a bleed valve

Decent power for the street, very useable... as soon as I touch the accelerator I get boost..

What turbo?

edit: just saw your post, how on earth do you get a GT3076 on boost by 3k? Most people are seeing 3.5 to 4k ? Was that with some ridiculous ramp rate?

Edited by Rolls

What turbo?

edit: just saw your post, how on earth do you get a GT3076 on boost by 3k? Most people are seeing 3.5 to 4k ? Was that with some ridiculous ramp rate?

The two runs are not equal... There must be some decent load and hold time on the EBC run as it starts at 9psi at about 2500rpm. A normal dyno run should start at around atmospheric pressure.

Second graph looks much more genuine with 18psi at 3500rpm which is pretty much what is expected from a GT3076R with a 0.63 :)

Edited by SimonR32

Its a good result :thumbsup: , high comp engine with adjustable cam gears would make a turbo spool earlier. Plus different dynos with different sittings would read differently. Compare to one of my earlier runs using the same dyno:

RB25DE high comp, adj cam gear, 3076 .63 ext gate, with a bleed valve

post-36975-0-72596700-1311255208_thumb.jpg

Standard RB25DET motor, stock head, ATR43G3 int gate, with Bleed valve. My run ended early due to misfire while still making 294rwkws.

post-27032-0-82969500-1311261862_thumb.jpg

They looks similar in terms of Power VS Response VS KM/H. But I know the SS-1 PU is more responsive. :yes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
×
×
  • Create New...