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It is cheaper than a power FC, only slightly more so than nistune and some people seem to think it is better. I know here in Adelaide they don't emissions test your exhaust, I did an engine swap and they asked for an emissions test slip at idle which I got from another company but they don't test it again once there, if defected it is not a requirement.

Even with a different ECU and all sorts of mods you will almost always pass the idle test providing you have a cat and stock cams, they never make you do a full spectrum emissions test unless you have different injectors/turbo etc, even then it is up to you if you want to do it, they just won't let you register the car until it is done.

In comparison to a brand new PFC, yes, but I picked up my old PFC for 900(no hand controller) and the current one for 1050(hand controller). Each to their own!

Lets just hope no body has to go through emissions testing. Its really a pain in the arse.

In comparison to a brand new PFC, yes, but I picked up my old PFC for 900(no hand controller) and the current one for 1050(hand controller). Each to their own!

Lets just hope no body has to go through emissions testing. Its really a pain in the arse.

Nistune is even cheaper again though so it is moot. Was just saying it is a bonus.

ldts not forget adaptronic is MAP..with aussie support :thumbsup:

Rolls I just used the gates flameproof hose, its blue but i think you can get it in black..just dont run it between the manifold and housing where the standard pipe goes it will fry anything... Loop it away from the heat..I hung a little bracket off the block to hold it in place..or if you get a braided length to the turbo with a fitting you can join the hose too so if you want to remove it just undo at that fititng..

Braided lines from kando dynamics for rb25 is a good kit. Bout 100 i think.

Just doing a rb20 with hks turbo and they have 2 lines behind the head that join. Which sucks alot more to get off and try to join to a braided line. Im trying to use a 5/16 compression fitting. Hopefully it bites on hard.

Dyno the pu1.5 next week after i install 740's,walbro and z32afm on customers car.

Update:

This is an update on few minor changes to the ATR43SS1PU's compressor profile aimed to lower inlet manifold temperature, as the initial release had the habit of cooking coolers.

In comparison the updated profile gained in average of 10kws peek, using less boost. The power delivery was lot more consistent in consecutive dyno runs also.

The most power made was 287rwkws, and average was 280rwkws @ 17psi.

power.jpg

boost.jpg

Status has a hub dyno. There is a 2kws variance between his to a dyno dynamics roller on a 261rkws setup.

I'm aware Sarge's car did not perform as expected (not sure if it was on your Mainland dyno). That is more due to the fact he's running a metal sleeved stock rubber intake pipe.

I've asked all my customers to run a at least a 3inch hard metal intake pipe, done back to back testing regarding to it result is in page 57 Car gained 65rwkws by going to a 4inch metal pipe.

He will be back for further tuning once his intake pipe is sorted. Expecting more results.

Status has a hub dyno. There is a 2kws variance between his to a dyno dynamics roller on a 261rkws setup.

I'm aware Sarge's car did not perform as expected (not sure if it was on your Mainland dyno). That is more due to the fact he's running a metal sleeved stock rubber intake pipe.

I've asked all my customers to run a at least a 3inch hard metal intake pipe, done back to back testing regarding to it result is in page 57 Car gained 65rwkws by going to a 4inch metal pipe.

He will be back for further tuning once his intake pipe is sorted. Expecting more results.

Tao I am running a 3 inch metal intake. I have a 3 inch connector to a 45 degree metal pipe which is connected to the stock top half of the metal intake pipe. My angle though is a modified pipe, we had to cut and bend then weld it so the corner is not 3 inch as we cut out half moons to bend the pipe. If I move the afm into the cooler pipe do I need to retune? Also do I need to retune with a new intake pipe or will the power just be unlocked?

If the AFM is moved to cooler piping the car do needs retune. Try to run a 3inch straight metal pipe with AFM and POD connected to the end of it first. Which should be fine. Also check for any exhaust related restrictions.

Once the intake pipe has been replaced, I would try a 2nd opinion on the original dyno that it was tuned on. I remember you had 241rwkws, if the current tune feels lot more aggressive on road then that should be lot more then 3kws difference.

If the AFM is moved to cooler piping the car do needs retune. Try to run a 3inch straight metal pipe with AFM and POD connected to the end of it first. Which should be fine. Also check for any exhaust related restrictions.

Once the intake pipe has been replaced, I would try a 2nd opinion on the original dyno that it was tuned on. I remember you had 241rwkws, if the current tune feels lot more aggressive on road then that should be lot more then 3kws difference.

I will see what I am going to do. If I am going to get 4" then I need to put the AFM in the cooler pipe thus costing money on another tune. If I go 3" pipe, I need to pay someone to make the pipe. That is fine but if I decide that I want 4" then Ill be paying for two tunes and two pipes... My exhaust shouldn't be a factor, I have a 100 cell metal huge 5" bodied cat and a 3.5" exhaust with no mufflers. It will definitely be the intake side which is an issue.

On 15psi the front end of the car lifts up like never before and the power difference in top end is huge. On the old actuator and 11psi it came on linear. This one here, when it comes on, its like f**k! I buckled when I gave it the first hit on 19psi even jez called me a bitch for not pushing it more haha.

If only it didn't cost $100 to do a dyno run, I'd get one done on the same dyno I originally got it tuned to see if there is a difference between dyno dynamics and mainline. Rather than waste money on that, I will get a proper intake pipe.

Tao you have a PM.

We will make the 3inch intake pipe and see. Im sure my Dyno guy will look after u with dyno hire and i wont charge u to do a tidy up if it needs it.

Hoping that i can tune the ss1.5 this saturday. I made a 3inch intake for that.

The 34neo with atr 43 i tuned after ur car sarge was supposed to make 240kw on Envy's dyno in syd. But made 220kw on the first run. And 232kw and a heap more in the midrange after i finished. This was maxing out the stock injectors and setting the limiter at 6000rpm

I'm thinking of getting another 3" pipe, blocking my BOV and shoving a filter onto my breather pipe and just seeing if the 3" pipe makes a difference... Jez if I happen to make a new pipe and then bring the car up for a tune, ill bring the old pipe so we can have a laugh at it.

I'm thinking of getting another 3" pipe, blocking my BOV and shoving a filter onto my breather pipe and just seeing if the 3" pipe makes a difference... Jez if I happen to make a new pipe and then bring the car up for a tune, ill bring the old pipe so we can have a laugh at it.

Are the stock BOV and breathers currently plumbed back into that bit from the factory intake pipe?

Any way, further updates with the SS-3 unit. This turbo is made for 350rwkws with optimum response. To make this work at its full capacity as possible I’ve replaced my factory exhaust manifold with an aftermarket item. The new manifold held the turbo at factory position, so stock dump and exhaust lined up fine.

chra.JPG

manifoldfront.JPG

manifoldrear.JPG

In car:

incar.JPG

With the new manifold it feels awesome at full open throttle, how ever it also feels like it have added lag down low. I will do a back to back comparison with the SS1PU after this run.

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