Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Also remember that while there is even pressure on both sides while the system is under boost. When you throttle off and the throttle body closes, one side has (in this example) 30psi and the other side has vacuum. This is where the BOV's function comes into it, but having a larger pressure differential along with age/condition (As above) is going to strain the diaphram more. I know they will handle 20psi all day every day no problems (if there in alright condition) but if you Jam 50psi through your system it means that there is about a 50psi (minus spring tension) pressure differential at some stage which means there is a little less then 50psi jamming the diaphram into the body, or whatever is holding it in position

I'm not saying it WILL fail, I'm just saying the more boost you run through it the more your playing with fire.

Also some winton drifting footage from Abe's car. It made 290rwkws using the old ATR43G3 none FNT version.

Capture34.JPG

Its currently making 347rwkws with the FNT update on E85. Should be seeing him hitting the track soon.

Is abe running a 0.82 rear? Does he have cams? Great result! Car looks tops in the photos too

Yes a billet electric supercharger that makes 7~10psi boost with a 1200HP Compressor. Need to work out in car wiring and its pretty much ready for testing.

Given some variable speed control I rekon you could easily make something NUTS out of that.

Goodluck Stao, it will be interesting to watch you pioneer the concept in public to say the least!

I've had the test car tuned current FNT ATR43G3's this evening. Basically straps on, internally gated on 98 fuel. The most it made was 330rwkws on 23psi, and 320rwkws on 20psi. The runs were performed with a high pressure actuator internally gated. The 20psi run is without boost controller.

power.jpg

boost.jpg

The No.s were very consistant. This turbo doesn't get hot at all. Compare to the older G3 there is small difference on paper but huge in driving ability.

That looks like it could be my new turbo :D

You have a PM Stao.

The ss2 made the same power at the same boost but 400rpm earlier... But maybe that turbo, being larger maybe not so much affected by heat, but even after long drives and runs through stanwell tops, I wasn't detonating or losing power

The ss2 made the same power at the same boost but 400rpm earlier... But maybe that turbo, being larger maybe not so much affected by heat, but even after long drives and runs through stanwell tops, I wasn't detonating or losing power

Yes, but I'm not just looking at the peak power. Compare the torque between the two. This turbo makes 530nm at 4500rpm, compared to the SS2 which only made 493 at 5300rpm. Then there is the area beneath the curve. This turbo is making slightly (not very much admittedly, but it's still there) more power at each rpm increment than the SS2. The SS2 only caught up just before redline. So they may make similar peak power, but this turbo looks like it would be better on the street. I am also concerned about the heat, as my motor is stock. It does get tracked occasionally, so I really need to be able to keep temperatures down.

Also not sure what is going on with the boost plot of the SS2, it really only makes it's peak boost at 5500rpm, so it's obviously getting a lot of boost creep. Not reading too much into that, it's just something that I noticed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...