Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Also remember that while there is even pressure on both sides while the system is under boost. When you throttle off and the throttle body closes, one side has (in this example) 30psi and the other side has vacuum. This is where the BOV's function comes into it, but having a larger pressure differential along with age/condition (As above) is going to strain the diaphram more. I know they will handle 20psi all day every day no problems (if there in alright condition) but if you Jam 50psi through your system it means that there is about a 50psi (minus spring tension) pressure differential at some stage which means there is a little less then 50psi jamming the diaphram into the body, or whatever is holding it in position

I'm not saying it WILL fail, I'm just saying the more boost you run through it the more your playing with fire.

Also some winton drifting footage from Abe's car. It made 290rwkws using the old ATR43G3 none FNT version.

Capture34.JPG

Its currently making 347rwkws with the FNT update on E85. Should be seeing him hitting the track soon.

Is abe running a 0.82 rear? Does he have cams? Great result! Car looks tops in the photos too

Yes a billet electric supercharger that makes 7~10psi boost with a 1200HP Compressor. Need to work out in car wiring and its pretty much ready for testing.

Given some variable speed control I rekon you could easily make something NUTS out of that.

Goodluck Stao, it will be interesting to watch you pioneer the concept in public to say the least!

I've had the test car tuned current FNT ATR43G3's this evening. Basically straps on, internally gated on 98 fuel. The most it made was 330rwkws on 23psi, and 320rwkws on 20psi. The runs were performed with a high pressure actuator internally gated. The 20psi run is without boost controller.

power.jpg

boost.jpg

The No.s were very consistant. This turbo doesn't get hot at all. Compare to the older G3 there is small difference on paper but huge in driving ability.

That looks like it could be my new turbo :D

You have a PM Stao.

The ss2 made the same power at the same boost but 400rpm earlier... But maybe that turbo, being larger maybe not so much affected by heat, but even after long drives and runs through stanwell tops, I wasn't detonating or losing power

The ss2 made the same power at the same boost but 400rpm earlier... But maybe that turbo, being larger maybe not so much affected by heat, but even after long drives and runs through stanwell tops, I wasn't detonating or losing power

Yes, but I'm not just looking at the peak power. Compare the torque between the two. This turbo makes 530nm at 4500rpm, compared to the SS2 which only made 493 at 5300rpm. Then there is the area beneath the curve. This turbo is making slightly (not very much admittedly, but it's still there) more power at each rpm increment than the SS2. The SS2 only caught up just before redline. So they may make similar peak power, but this turbo looks like it would be better on the street. I am also concerned about the heat, as my motor is stock. It does get tracked occasionally, so I really need to be able to keep temperatures down.

Also not sure what is going on with the boost plot of the SS2, it really only makes it's peak boost at 5500rpm, so it's obviously getting a lot of boost creep. Not reading too much into that, it's just something that I noticed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
×
×
  • Create New...