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Lol @ comparing results and claiming better response from FFP but infact it was from the fuel. please dont provide misleading information.

its a known fact that stock plenums have better response however reducing the length of the cooler pipe will help also. best way is to remove the standard crossover pipe and custom make a cooler pipe straight from TB to underneath battery tray like so

IMG_2474.JPG

Oh stao I forgot to ask. That vw high flow. Was that a ko3 or ko3s. The beetle uses the ko3s and is bigger.

Edited by lilcrash

Lol @ comparing results and claiming better response from FFP but infact it was from the fuel. please dont provide misleading information.

its a known fact that stock plenums have better response however reducing the length of the cooler pipe will help also. best way is to remove the standard crossover pipe and custom make a cooler pipe straight from TB to underneath battery tray like so

IMG_2474.JPG

^^^^

Who makes that pipping kit? need one asap.

I'm not too sure what K03 that is, I've been told its from Chinese 1.8L T WV passet I believe. doesn't really matter we can high flow most of turbos.

He's running a Plazaman plenum. In theory shorter cooler piping reduces lag as the length in air travel is shorter, with less volume to fill, same as bigger or smaller coolers. Mine and Abe's car are identical in setup except shorter cooler piping and plenum, E85 should also have some effects as well. I'm also in the process of designing a shorter piping on the plenum side, should make a difference.

E85 makes a massive difference, the shorter runner lengths with a front facing plenum do A LOT more than the shorter distance the air has to travel.

My dump pipe is also close to the air con drain as in it has burnt it. Does this explain why I am getting some water dripping on the feet of the front passenger when the aircon is on?

Mate that is the exact same problem i am having. I can't use my air con without having wet shoes. The longer i have it on, the more water comes out. Eventually, its like a cup of water thrown at my feet its annoying.

Under that rubber pipe is just a white plastic hose that dumps condensation when A/C is on. The water comes in due to the car's acceleration momentum, get a rubber plug in that size then cut the center section out for that plastic hose. That would stop any water drain in to the cabinet.

I got my ATR43G3 fitted yesterday, and the pump pipe now touches the AC hose thing.. ill prob wrap the rubber hose with some heat wrap. Install went o k, but its hardly "bolt on" would have been cheaper to buy a ebay exhaust manifold/custom dump and intake.

But im happy its on and working atleast, getting tuned at MRC today, so we'll see how it goes...

Havent even hit boost in it yet and WOW it sounds awesome, car is twice as loud!

Photos of your engine bay would be great. Please make sure it has at least 3 inches metal intake system (G3 should run 4inches) with a very free flow exhaust before dyno tuning. Also make sure the wastegate actuator is pre-loaded to original spec (3mms) if it has been removed during installation

We charge $300 for installation here that takes 4 hours to do. It would be a good idea to read through the DIY guides before starting the job.

Intake side must be changed regardless and check page 1 for cheap DIY intake setup. I'm ripping out my turbo Tuesday and will take videos of the installation.

Photos of your engine bay would be great. Please make sure it has at least 3 inches metal intake system (G3 should run 4inches) with a very free flow exhaust before dyno tuning. Also make sure the wastegate actuator is pre-loaded to original spec (3mms) if it has been removed during installation

We charge $300 for installation here that takes 4 hours to do. It would be a good idea to read through the DIY guides before starting the job.

Intake side must be changed regardless and check page 1 for cheap DIY intake setup. I'm ripping out my turbo Tuesday and will take videos of the installation.

I will put some pics up, it looks great. I didnt do the install my local performance shop did it, i gave them your step-by-step instructions too..

It has a 4inch intake, and a VERY free flowing exaust (Catless 3inch system, 4inch muffler straight through) and just installed last night a blitz return flow. There is absolutly no restriction in this setup.

They had to modify the actuator as it was even straight, and was rubbing on the side of the shaft as it would come onto boost, that cost me more money, all up was 1200 to install and fabricate intake pipe and weld intercooler pipe longer. I did have lots of studs broken though, that bumped the price up $400.

still no word yet on the tune..

I will put some pics up, it looks great. I didnt do the install my local performance shop did it, i gave them your step-by-step instructions too..

It has a 4inch intake, and a VERY free flowing exaust (Catless 3inch system, 4inch muffler straight through) and just installed last night a blitz return flow. There is absolutly no restriction in this setup.

They had to modify the actuator as it was even straight, and was rubbing on the side of the shaft as it would come onto boost, that cost me more money, all up was 1200 to install and fabricate intake pipe and weld intercooler pipe longer. I did have lots of studs broken though, that bumped the price up $400.

still no word yet on the tune..

Are you using an AFM or do you have a MAP based ecu?? Just interested in how much work is involved moving the AFM to the cooler piping if anyone reading this has done it.

$400 for broken studs? Jeez... It's so easy to get a broken stud out confused.gif

I really don't like workshops play with the fitment of the actuator as is was set like that for a reason, Remove the actuator bracket with the actuator to allow tools go in But don't take the actuator off the bracket as it is setup evenly on a jig to the wastgate nipple loaded and pressure tested. Not only that they would charge you good couple of hours marking around with it hopefully get it back to where it was.

I hope they lined it up with the wasetgate nipple and loaded it correctly or its going to be super laggy and unable to hold boost. It would be good if your tuner becomes aware of that before tuning.

Are you using an AFM or do you have a MAP based ecu?? Just interested in how much work is involved moving the AFM to the cooler piping if anyone reading this has done it.

$400 for broken studs? Jeez... It's so easy to get a broken stud out confused.gif

Yeah AFM is infront of the 4inch intake, so it does reduce down to 3inch for the afm and pod. Didnt want to relocate the afm as it doesnt look stock and they blow apart at high boost levels in the cooler piping (from what i remember reading on here)

Yeah 2 in the block and that was making the manifold leak, and all of the studs onto the turbo. They nearly melted the manifold getting them out, had to get a pro in to do it, think he drill them out.

Well ill find out this arvo how the cars running, but it didnt seem that laggy with no tune, i didnt boost it though, but was like stock turbo just driving "normally" the actuator just didnt look straight, its now straight so who knows. They are a very well known Performance and tuning shop who have turbo 6/8's everything there i trust they knew what they were doing.

I am taking to a different tuner than who installed the turbo, but i did let him know about the actuator.

Update:

Got a faulty AFM, so only 2 power runs done one to 6k rpm and another to 5k rpm.

Full boost with no tuning is 18psi at 4200rpm power was something like 240rwkw.. getting a new afm tomorrow and final tune will be done then. AFR's were in the 10s.

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