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Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

hypergear

By hypergear,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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SlowSkyline Collaborator

SlowSkyline

Posted
Posted

Tao are those two graphs up there your exact AFR's, what your wide band reads(I read that is how trent does his tuning, writes his table to target afrs then adjust af curve to meet this)?

My car is being really weird, sometimes it will idle at 14 othertimes I see it idling at 11.1. Can you get me a similar screen dump of a SS2 target afr, what afr you actually want to see come out the exhaust pipe.You run 9's in the top end, isn't that really really low of an afr? Surely it could be a little leaner...

What AFM you got? a GENUINE Bosch Z32? Mine was doing the same thing on my tune with a copy Z32..

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Lithium
Lithium

I was reading through the thread and was going to weigh in anyway, though looks like you're very much on the page I am reading from - so I'll +1 with with a bit more anecdotal evidence to support it

hypergear
hypergear

The ATR28SS15 would be a perfect turbo for your application. I didn't look into some thing even smaller as it doesn't make that much of a difference in response but did loses quite a lot of power. I'

Dose Pipe Sutututu
Dose Pipe Sutututu

^ lol... maybe I'll use a 3" intake pipe and add in more bends.. that usually gets the suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuutuuututuutut going LOL. Anyhow, some real world facts to back up the results.. errbody likes ti

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SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

What AFM you got? a GENUINE Bosch Z32? Mine was doing the same thing on my tune with a copy Z32..

Genuine Bosch Z32. It was fine until I fiddled with my intake pipe(don't anyone give me shit for this) but I don't see how it could have had that much effect on it. My car has always been rich on idle just sometimes feels richer than others. I haven't kept an eye on temps or any other corrections though...

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted (edited)

How does it go at higher rpm? I'm assuming you have a wideband if you can see what it's doing? The target AFRs are just that, a target. The true value depends on things like k-constant (injector values) etc. My target AFR at idle on my fuel map is 14.7, but my true AFR is about 17.5.

So a screen dump of target values probably won't help much.

*EDIT* Sorry, just reread what you wrote and I think you're already aware of what I said :P

Edited by Hanaldo
SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

^ Indeed I am lol. How the f**k are you managing such a lean idle? My car lean pops anywhere close to 14... I do have a wideband uego. Ill take the car for a run next time I have access to a laptop and do some logging with afrs on a table. Should be interesting to see how well this wideband responds.

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
  • Author
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SargeRX8, on 06 December 2011 - 02:04 PM, said:

Tao are those two graphs up there your exact AFR's, what your wide band reads(I read that is how trent does his tuning, writes his table to target afrs then adjust af curve to meet this)?

This is the timing and fuel map for the SS2 off my test car in April this year.

timing.JPG

fuel.JPG

Pretty much all my afrs are between 11~11.5 range.

Also another SS3 prototype tested yesterday night. Made similar power as the G3 with slightly better response. It looks like my current setup has issues breaking the 330rwkws boundary, even so the SS3 has slight larger internals then the G3.

power.jpg

boost.jpg

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
  • Author
Posted

compwheel2.jpg

The G2/3/4 is available in universal form externally gated for $1000 , the SS2/3 can do for $1200. T3 .82 FNT rear, 5 bolt pattern externally gated.

G3/SS3/G4 all comes in .70 comp.

G2/SS2 comes in .60 comp.

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The goal of SS3 is up to 350rwkws on 98 fuel with 20psi pre 4000RPMs. Its another step closer with probably another 10 miles to go. There are so much work and trailing getting just that 200RPMs of response through comp wheel fabrications. I'm trying to reach my goal by altering the turbocharger alone on a fair stock setup which is looking bit impossible at this stage, how ever I will list mods I've done as this project progresses.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

What error codes?

Hey guys,

Finally got round to reading the error codes on my ECU; I'm posting them up on the NIStune forums but thought I might post them here as well in case anyone might know how to resolve them. So there's 4 codes that came up this time, I believe these are the ones that caused Sean a few problems:

[26] DTC BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR (Starts=5)

[33] DTC HEATED O2 SENSOR LHS (Starts=0)

[44] DTC ABC TCS COMM CIRCUIT (Starts=0)

[46] DTC THROTTLE MOTOR SENSOR (Starts=0)

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

Are those components fitted on to your car? The stock boost sensor? The O2 sensor? nfi what the others are. Maybe DTC means detect and its unable to detect those components? An easy way around is to find the resistance of said components and then get a resistor in there to fool the ECU into thinking those components are installed. Kind of like how people smash their cars and blow their air bags the fit a resistor in place to get rid of the air bag warning then sell it off as a normal car.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Are those components fitted on to your car? The stock boost sensor? The O2 sensor? nfi what the others are. Maybe DTC means detect and its unable to detect those components? An easy way around is to find the resistance of said components and then get a resistor in there to fool the ECU into thinking those components are installed. Kind of like how people smash their cars and blow their air bags the fit a resistor in place to get rid of the air bag warning then sell it off as a normal car.

Could work, I'll query it to the NIStune guys...

I'm not sure if the stock boost sensor is still there, I never had the stock boost gauge installed on my car so the sensor may have been ditched. There is a Hitachi MAP sensor at the back of the engine bay utilizing the stock sensors location, but I'm not sure if that is the stock sensor or if that is my boost controllers sensor.

The O2 sensor is no longer there, it stopped working a long time ago and I tuned around it so when I got my wideband I decided to just plug up the stock bung and ditch it all together.

I'm assuming the other two codes are to do with the traction control which is no longer there. Again I'm not sure which components were removed or if they are still there and just not connected.

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Finally got round to reading the error codes on my ECU; I'm posting them up on the NIStune forums but thought I might post them here as well in case anyone might know how to resolve them. So there's 4 codes that came up this time, I believe these are the ones that caused Sean a few problems:

[26] DTC BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR (Starts=5)

[33] DTC HEATED O2 SENSOR LHS (Starts=0)

[44] DTC ABC TCS COMM CIRCUIT (Starts=0)

[46] DTC THROTTLE MOTOR SENSOR (Starts=0)

I just talked to my mate Brad, he had pretty much all the same codes. He is going to come on soon and tell you how to fix everything :)

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

I just talked to my mate Brad, he had pretty much all the same codes. He is going to come on soon and tell you how to fix everything :)

Legend! Thanks mate thumbsup.gif

Scradly Community Regular

Scradly

Posted
Posted

Hanaldo.

List what mods are doento this.

I take that the car was N/A to start with.

Does it have a turbo loom and ecu.

Let me know whats it has exactly and we can try and work it out.

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hypergear what happened to your electric charger? I'm curious if it made much power at all.

^ Indeed I am lol. How the f**k are you managing such a lean idle? My car lean pops anywhere close to 14... I do have a wideband uego. Ill take the car for a run next time I have access to a laptop and do some logging with afrs on a table. Should be interesting to see how well this wideband responds.

My idle is about 17:1 as well, and yeah it does pop quite a lot, but it still runs smooth, doesn't get hot or anything.

Edited by Rolls
SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

I thought I posted something a couple posts above regarding the electric turbo but looks like it didn't get through. Keen to see what happened with it or if the idea fell through.

Is the lean popping with such a lean idle a bad thing or does it not really have any negative effects on the car? If there is no real risk of damaging anything, I will lean out the idle. Shits me seeing it on 13's, sometimes even in 12's

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

So long as it isn't getting hot and you can deal with the bastard annoying pop that it Will be fine

Try to adjust afrs until the engine is pulling the most vacuum at idle

Means the engine is happiest

Same goes with timing

Just make sure both hot and cold start are still ok though

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted
Is the lean popping with such a lean idle a bad thing or does it not really have any negative effects on the car? If there is no real risk of damaging anything, I will lean out the idle. Shits me seeing it on 13's, sometimes even in 12's

No real issue at all. It isn't like you use much fuel at idle anyway though.

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