Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah I mean good on him for being cautious if he isn't familiar, but you can tell him that hundreds of people have done it safely, just avoid detonation, keep it cool and it will be fine. A good intercooler is extremely important for higher running boost safely.

before boosting the f**k out of it, i'd compression test a motor to get a idea on its health, but thats just me , plenty have boosted the f**k out of them, just as many have blown the bottom ends out of them.....

cheers

darren

bad tuning good tuning whatever, darren is right a sloppy motor will let go once you lean on it

boost is just the indicator for how hard you are leaning on it in this case

and Ron, i believe the difference between a 255kw and 279kw SS1PU would be fairly small.. minor difference at the end of the strip and mostly the same for the first 150kph.

i also think a SS1PU at 255kw will blitz a G3 at 270. Kapish?

please take some interest in and do some reading on the HKS GTRS... see what people think of the staple 250kw turbo. my understanding is that it comes on that early and snappy that acceleration will eat the 300kw setups pre 200kph

almost always due to bad tuning

I think people are forgetting how many kms are on these motors now...I will give you a example..I have been a member on supraforums for 13yrs, I look every week , stock bottom end started of taking 600 rwhp with 66mm setups, then they went 72mm, 74mm 76m Q trims and the numbers went up, then 42's with 74, 76 S trims etc, 900rwhp no blowups. But in th last couple of yrs the the average for a stock bottom end has been drastically lowered as they are starting to put on reasonable mileage, and aren't as strong anymore..or it could be people have just started bad tuning now.....

Its only the one owner never driven ones, REALLY low mileage that people are getting hold of , compety stock standard and then going large in the setup and making ridiclious numbers still.

Fark loads have taking a dump And the average Rb25 had 15 times the mileage these things have on them..plus a lot of people ideas of maintenance are different, theres so many shitbox skylines around that aren;t looked after its not funny, i woudn't recommend giving one of them 20+psi.. without a comp test.

Unless your idea of a good saturday is removing a smelly old ringland busted Rb25.

cheers

darren

MVC-001F.JPG

^^

Above turbo were made for a VW 4S dealer in China. Got some feedbacks from them today. This turbo was fitted to a 01 Model 1.8LT Auto Bora. They were measuring 0~100 acceleration using D-box.

The 0~100KM acceleration time from a factory was 10.5 sec

ATR28G1 high flowed turbo and every thing else factory, the 0~100KM acceleration time was 9.4 sec with plenty of wheel spin.

Its pretty interesting that we are compares RPM vs Power vs Boost, probably due to lack of skilled modifier and tuners, all they are interested is in 0~100km acceleration time. How ever that was a pretty good start. :turned:

Its pretty interesting that we are compares RPM vs Power vs Boost, probably due to lack of skilled modifier and tuners, all they are interested is in 0~100km acceleration time. How ever that was a pretty good start. :turned:

Well it sounds like they didnt get the ecu tuned to suit and if I didnt have to get the ecu tuned I wouldnt get a dyno done either. It is interesting though as for a street car 0-100 should be very important. I know some people were discussing times a while back.

Wheelspin for a 9.4 second 0-100??? Its a good improvement from 10.5 especially with so little changes but its hardly fast lol

i woudn't recommend giving one of them 20+psi.. without a comp test.

Unless your idea of a good saturday is removing a smelly old ringland busted Rb25.

By all means compression test the engine before modifying any car.

I am curious what difference you think running 18psi vs 21psi will make. If the car is kept away from det how is the ringland going to fail?

12psi with det will fubar it as easily as 18psi.

After a comp test, what is a good level of compression to be running high boost on these motors? My motor tested at 155 - 160 on all cylinders, I run 17psi through it and 20 as high boost.

The head gasket comment by the tuner is rubbish, the standard nissan head gasket has been proven to huge power with aftermarket engine builds. Lots of tuners prefer them over aftermarktet metal ones.

I understand if your tuner is worried about the standard engine overall. Does he have much experience with skylines? A lot of tuners that dont are hesitant to boost it too high as they are not aware of how strong they are.

Give it hell as it is for a few months and then take it back and demand the boost be raised :)

His big thing was that he hasn't had any positive experiences come from running more boost than that on an RB ( fear of doing a ring or another adverse problem i don't know about), The plan is to drive it around like it is now (340hp atw) and then when i do my 100k service in 9000k's time I'll retune for 20 psi.

Edited by RandomHero83

His big thing was that he hasn't had any positive experiences come from running more boost than that on an RB ( fear of doing a ring or another adverse problem i don't know about), The plan is to drive it around like it is now (340hp atw) and then when i do my 100k service in 9000k's time I'll retune for 20 psi.

Silly move. I done my 100k service 10kkm before it. Pay for tune, major service, then pay for tune again...

155 means it is in great condition

What about 180?? I comp tested my motor a few months ago and got between 180-182 across all six. It's higher than any other result I've seen on here... Was worried about possibly carbon build up increasing the compression?

Varies depending on a lot of factors, as long as its consistent it doesn't really matter, I would only worry if it read really low like 100, even then I had an rb20 that consistently read 110 across all six, burnt a tiny bit of oil but wasn't down on power at all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?)   2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part that I'm aware of. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they have to, somehow. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec (and is the price of the damn diffuser alone). How does the liner interact with this? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?
    • Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
    • And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car.   Because race car, and wanting the lightness.  At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards  
    • OR, Tell the Motec to STFU, you said shift, so try shifting! But then yes, I agree, more sensors needed to. Put either a wheel speed sensor, or a diff speed sensor on it. Then get an input shaft speed sensor too. (I say input shaft speed, and not engine RPM). This way, you can now also log and see if the clutch is slipping (RPM, vs input shaft speed), and you can calculate gear (Input shaft speed / Output shaft speed). At least then if the gear position sensor fails you have a backup. And realistically, the Motec should only worry about what gear you're in for the parts where I'm assuming you have some power management strategies in it for the lower gears. (IE, lower boost, maybe different throttle curves, different ignition curves, etc etc). But it should stop it shifting. Pull the flappy, that f**ker should just attempt the motion! Heck, even on a sequential like on a motorbike, you can keep trying to kick it up a gear all you want, the physically part of the box takes care of not being able to loop the whole way around the box! Only part you'd have to worry is how it gets to reverse.  But that's on the driver... An R32 shouldn't be so smart as to try and override the driver on a gear shift  
    • Yeah, nah. Anyone not putting the absolutely largest battery that will physically fit (ie, NS70 X) is not thinking straight. the NS70 X is close on double the capacity of the "stock" unit.
×
×
  • Create New...