Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The logic & experiences of the split dump pipe being a restriction makes sense to me explained in that way. Thanks GTSTScott, Rolls and Birds for the explanation.

In any case buying one of these is not a hugely expensive gamble for me, so I will just have to wait a while, get one & sell the current one, and see how it goes.

Because retuning is fairly expensive though, I may want to make more changes than just the dump pipe to make more sure of getting more power. Finding out the dump didn't work & that it is indeed the FMIC after another retune would be a bit painful.

Another point to note; when I was speaking with Tao, and he asked what intercooler I have, he was of the opinion that even having a FMIC running the normal path (not turnflow), the only coolers he had seen consistently perform were Plazmaman ones and PWR (which he has on the test car). I asked about Blitz turnflows and he does not think these are reliable either, and definitely not anything JJR.

The problem with the JJR return flow and short vertical run down cores, is not the ability to flow, its the ability to loose heat. They pull one good run then heat soaks every run after, so your car would pin, pin, and more pinning after each run. Don't remove timing, give it 20 mints cooling period between runs and its knock free. I've already tried that and mentioned it in earlier pages.

Obviously when running E85 with a cooler like that, the fuel is not as sensitive to heat, so as long as it can flow it will make power.

I believe Jeff wrote a full page long about testing of a blitz return flow cooler that caused boost drop issues, if you haven't seen it please refer to index page for the thread.

In conclusion don't use return flow coolers or crappy cores for 300rwkws application. Spend some cash and get a decent plazaman cooler (abe's car G3 making 290rwkws pump and 358rwkws E85) or a PWR cooler (test car). The importance is in the quality of labor work, and materials its made from.

Split dump will do no good. It causes boost creep and flow restrictions specially used on the G3. There has been few pages of discussions to read at, they can be located through the index page.

Plus there is no magic in the engine. Every single part in its build is listed in previous pages.

My return flow is performing so far. I also have cooler piping from turbo is 2inch then near the cooler it opens to 3inch. Then from the cooler it drops from 3inch to 2.5inch to the throttle body.

This car goes against the norm

yeah mine is only 60mm all the way to the cooler too, then 2.5 to intake..not return flow though..

Smaller piping helps keep up velocity up which is good for response..thats my theory anyway..;)

probably not great for big power though

Silicon will be alright for a 250-260kw setup?

yes, with abuse it may give way over time but should be fine for ages..

Hey Guys

So this is what I mean by the welding its right near the sensor

092yz.jpg

Ah mine has a ridge about half an inch behind the flange. You have the same ridge but mine seems to have separated and is now raised. I'll try get a photo up later

As long as there are no kinks/abnormal stresses on the joiners, and the surfaces being joined together are free of contaminants, I'm absolutely positive there is no way you'll run a higher boost pressure than they can handle. Quote me on that.

Also 150rwkw @30psi is more likely to blow joiners apart than 700rwkw @15psi.

Oh also, I'm fairly sure that my boost source is plumbed much further than 30cm from the turbo...it's on the cold side of the intercooler piping, as it goes back over top of the turbo.

I wouldnt say dont use return flow coolers

i have a ARC return flow on my 33 with my gt3076 yet to be tuned

but my best mate has one on his r33 and makes 307rwkw on 18psi internal wastegate with a ARC and doesnt see any pressure drop or rises in intake temp

i guess its all todo with the quality of the cooler

i would always prefer a more expensive cooler to retain the LEGAL well the stock HOLE route rather then cutting a hole

Oh also, I'm fairly sure that my boost source is plumbed much further than 30cm from the turbo...it's on the cold side of the intercooler piping, as it goes back over top of the turbo.

Is there a certain way about doing it?

Hot side or cold side of the intercooler

When you say back over the turbo Troy do you mean just before the throttle body?

i would always prefer a more expensive cooler to retain the LEGAL well the stock HOLE route rather then cutting a hole

nothing wrong with cutting a hole if it is done in the right place.

In conclusion don't use return flow coolers or crappy cores for 300rwkws application. Spend some cash and get a decent plazaman cooler (abe's car G3 making 290rwkws pump and 358rwkws E85) or a PWR cooler (test car). The importance is in the quality of labor work, and materials its made from.

not entirely true, NYTSKY's R33 GTST made 427rwkw with a china spec 76mm front mount intercooler

Is there a certain way about doing it?

Hot side or cold side of the intercooler

When you say back over the turbo Troy do you mean just before the throttle body?

Not quite that far, more around where the cold side piping goes back over the pod filter. Either way,like 40cm before the throttle body

In Melbourne Vic roads new law in there book says no holes to be cut in the body if it's not from factory, can't even cut out a parcel shelf to fit 6x9 speakers

In that case you could very easily go to a mech engineer and get them to sign off on it if it is a non structural part of the vehicle. There is ZERO issue with cutting into non structural parts.

Makes no sense to me.

I wouldnt say dont use return flow coolers

i have a ARC return flow on my 33 with my gt3076 yet to be tuned

but my best mate has one on his r33 and makes 307rwkw on 18psi internal wastegate with a ARC and doesnt see any pressure drop or rises in intake temp

i guess its all todo with the quality of the cooler

i would always prefer a more expensive cooler to retain the LEGAL well the stock HOLE route rather then cutting a hole

Its good to be consistent in what we talk about dude.. Try to remember an ARC cooler goes for 1-2000 dollars new, its not exactly apples and apples when you think of it that way.

Long story short, ARC are a fu*king good cooler.

A good example of this is the 3071 with a 0.63 rear that made 307rwkw on a neo r34 with poncams, made 290 with stock cams, only ~18psi as well, was tuned by one of the guys at nistune themselves and on the morpowa dyno here in Adelaide, reputable tuner and not known to be high reading dyno by any stretch. The dyno picture is in "matts r34" thread on the nistune forums if anyone wants to check it.

Guy had all of the most expensive jap brand name (overkill) parts as far as intake, intercooler, exhaust, dump etc goes, the engine was also extremely healthy (neo as well). I think this really shows the merit in good quality parts, no leaks etc as this result is normally what is seen on a gt3076 with a 0.82 rear.

In regards to where to get your boost reference signal from..

The way I like to do it is for the actuator, shortest possible path, as close to turbo exit as possible.

I then get the boost reference for the EBC control unit from the plenum.

In regards to where to get your boost reference signal from..

The way I like to do it is for the actuator, shortest possible path, as close to turbo exit as possible.

I then get the boost reference for the EBC control unit from the plenum.

This is how my stock turbo was setup but now going to have to use a silicone joiner

So I will do just after the joined but before the intercooler

Right now my EBC gets reference from the stock gauge line

Just after the elbow is fine, you just want the actuator reference signal as short as possible (i.e. not on other side of the cooler) to prevent any overboosting or lazy signal issues.

My new setup will have a peak recall boost gauge plumbed in with the actuator reference signal (so I have pre cooler readout) and a normal boost gauge + EBC signal (EBC has peak recall) at the plenum. This will then show me any pressure losses and help troubleshoot issues :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Actually, that's not entirely true. It's also the same motor in the 1st gen Nissan Cube but they're rare as hen's teeth.  
    • Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...