Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Seems pretty on par with kaskos result, but yours doesn't seem to have the boost control issue. Is your actuator a 14or 20 psi one?

Edit: just read your running 16psi so it obviously isn't a 20 psi actuator

Edited by Mitcho_7

Lol thats a pretty awsome result there birds, Looks so stock. I too would be worried about the rubber intake sucking shut though, with all that extra suction its creating now. At what psi is it getting 16psi?

You mean at what RPM is it getting 16psi, lol? My tacho is retarded (read: not actually working) at the moment, so it's hard to tell. I'll have to get someone to sit in car with me and read RPM off the hand controller...will report back. It's nice and early though!

Speaking of things that actually happen, that reminds me; Birds didn't you say RP were making you a custom intake pipe???

As above, they've used a metal spring setup to keep the rubber hose open. They were going to make me a 3" metal pipe, but Chris wanted to save me some money and didn't feel it necessary for this boost/power level...guess he was right. Can always do it down the track for the E-flex tune.

Seems pretty on par with kaskos result, but yours doesn't seem to have the boost control issue. Is your actuator a 14or 20 psi one?

Not sure what actuator I have, probably a 14psi. It was preloaded to around 18-20psi, so they removed the preload and let the EBC do it's work to hold 16psi. To be fair, Kasko runs 20psi which drops off to around 16psi from memory...mine can't really drop off when it's already at 16psi.

As above, they've used a metal spring setup to keep the rubber hose open. They were going to make me a 3" metal pipe, but Chris wanted to save me some money and didn't feel it necessary for this boost/power level...guess he was right. Can always do it down the track for the E-flex tune.

Fair enough, good to see you've got a workshop that is interested in the customers benefit, not just their own. They aren't all like that down.gif

By the way, while said friend is reading your RPM off the hand controller, you should probably get them to take some videos thumbsup.gif

Happy to do vids, it'd probably be better visually when my tacho is working though lol. I also have to sort out some...er...traction issues :)

I'm very happy with how RP handled themselves, spotting things like the differences between the injectors I supplied them etc. I've heard of wallet rapings but I came out alright and you know your car is in good hands.

Little Cut that your making more power using less boost

Anyone got any ideas on why this would be?

My specs are in my sig

You are both on 16psi aren't you? Comparing your graphs, I'd say you are making a fair bit more mid-range with 20psi through there, if you can get it to hold that boost then you'd get a bit more on top.

Kasko remember most dyno's read differently. Its like comparing apples and oranges. Simple things like dyno temp corrections etc can give different results, different tyres etc

True true

Nah hanaldo I run 20 tapering off to around 17 if I remember correctly Jez ?

The tapering isn't a huge deal I guess because I didn't really like the idea of pushing 20 through my stock engine all the time anyways

I spend a lot of time driving off boost as well as its my daily.

So let's hope the engine holds up for a while

Little Cut that your making more power using less boost

Anyone got any ideas on why this would be?

My specs are in my sig

Too many variables man. Put your car on the RP dyno and it could make more power than mine did...

Either way, we're both top ending at around 16psi and making similar power with similar mods, so I wouldn't be cut about it. I wanted 20psi in the midrange too, but Chris said my engine was pinging a bit much for his liking so he turned it down. Get on E-flex like I plan to and you'll be laughing :)

True true

Nah hanaldo I run 20 tapering off to around 17 if I remember correctly Jez ?

The tapering isn't a huge deal I guess because I didn't really like the idea of pushing 20 through my stock engine all the time anyways

I spend a lot of time driving off boost as well as its my daily.

So let's hope the engine holds up for a while

You'll be fine, engine will love it thumbsup.gif

You also mentioned your power was a little limited by ping? That may be something to look at if that's the case, what is causing it to ping?

dude - after a small retune with less timing he said he made 252.4rwkw at 16psi

you made 2kw less on a different type of dyno, in a workshop in a different state using a different turbo

lol.. why on earth would you be cut?

only thing you need to do is try to get it holding boost.

Birds turbo could be seen as a BASE figure for that hybrid turbo he had made.

Comparing the 2 is not even apples and oranges, it's like apples and box of paper clips.

If you want to know the real reason our graphs are different, it's because you have a Blitz pod and I have an Apexi pod.

Birds did they push more pressure through it? Or just the 16PSI?

555c's should have heaps of head room 18-20PSI.

I imagine 16 is where you wanted it for the road, but 18-19 would have been nice to see. Or does the snail run out of puff?

Bit of a novus question, but could the stock bov contribute to boost bleeding at higher rpm on the ss1pu's or are they usually good for 300kw+ ?

Edited by Mitcho_7

Cmon, you should know the answer to this John..

The problem with running stock housings is they superheat the air, the more air you try to shove though them the hotter it gets the hotter it gets the less power it makes..

You could pump more into it but it wouldnt be safe and wouldnt give a realistic figure of how much power it is actually making..hence the need for e85 to help keep it cool...Which should work well...ish..

Either way its a pretty good figure though for what it is and the boost it is running,

I bet it feels pretty damn nice to drive as is too, but I think if you keep on the gas to long it will heat up quickly and then it becomes inefficient..

I know mine used to...If hes only gunna do quick sprints here n there it shouldnt matter too much though

Birds did they push more pressure through it? Or just the 16PSI?

555c's should have heaps of head room 18-20PSI.

I imagine 16 is where you wanted it for the road, but 18-19 would have been nice to see. Or does the snail run out of puff?

The injectors are nowhere near their limits for duty. Artz hit the nail on the head IMO...the intake charge probably gets too hot with the Nissan comp cover. I mean, we are pushing ~260rwkw through the comp cover of a turbo that people normally max out at ~230rwkw. There are probably other "standard looking" or legal things in my setup, keeping it warm too. But frankly, I expected to be much more down on power with the choices I'd made, so I'm happy with 16psi. I want 20psi, but I want a standard look more :)

As Kasko and others have shown, the SS1PU is capable of at least 20psi in the midrange...not sure about the top end capabilities yet, boost seems to taper off...but it is only a small turbo and definitely designed for midrange power. On E-flex we'll have more room to move in the timing and fuel departments...hopefully with that I can demand more from the Nissan comp cover.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...