Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a note. The excedy heavy duty can't hold 200kw.

Holding over 300kw (flywheel, where the rating is measured) without a problem for me. Don't spread misinformation.

Agree the Xtreme Motorsport clutches have also worked very well for me.

A car Ive done previously had the Xtreme button plate wear a little thin so I popped a regular exedy organic plate in it and its been running forevermore another 18 months of abuse later.

Here is a 34 i just finished tuning. Did a run before poncams and then tuned it after poncams.

Is running G3 older spec. This is with profec B spec 2 set to 0 but helping with holding top end (basically gate pressure)

Tao has sent a 14psi actuator that we will fit so can tune a low boost.

I tried more boost with this setup but kept nosing over and for the extra amount of boost there wasnt enough gain.

It saw 281kw with a bit more midrange on 21psi.

Tried advancing and retarding exhaust gear with no gain. So left at 0.

Also tried dropping the exhaust which automatically raised the boost to 20psi and made 281kw

70262b6e.jpg

Thats correct coupe.

The light blue run was when the dyno was playing up but it was reading the dyno correctly just not controlling the steady state.

I have tuned this car in the other (mainline) dyno and it made 232kw but has a different cat since then

Aparently I was lying before so here is the full details. I've got an rs4s running an excedy hd, stock turbo on 10/11psi it slipped a little, installed hypergear tuned to 220kw, slipped a bit more. Rebuilt engine and got clutch checked, nothing physically wrong with it or the flywheel, just doesn't hold.

Thats correct coupe.

The light blue run was when the dyno was playing up but it was reading the dyno correctly just not controlling the steady state.

I have tuned this car in the other (mainline) dyno and it made 232kw but has a different cat since then

thats does it I want cams now...

Oh wow. Am I reading the graph correctly in that the run with poncams made 53kw more top-end (ignoring the mid-range gain as well because I can't see that axis) with less boost? If that's the case then I may start thinking about poncams more seriously as well lol. What are the specs on those cams, are they Type-B's, ie. 260's???

I also agree it looks like a restriction somewhere though, what's going on with the shape of the curve Jez, was that caused by the exhaust?

Lol very true, between boost bleeding off, square wheels and my brake pedal causing earthquakes in my car. I'm having lots of fun chasing problems.

Aparently I was lying before so here is the full details. I've got an rs4s running an excedy hd, stock turbo on 10/11psi it slipped a little, installed hypergear tuned to 220kw, slipped a bit more. Rebuilt engine and got clutch checked, nothing physically wrong with it or the flywheel, just doesn't hold.

You were lying before, so how can I trust what you're saying now? :P

Seriously though, there are a lot of factors to clutches not holding up in specific applications. Your pressure plate may be worn which can be visually impossible to tell and the lack of clamping pressure, no matter how good your friction plate is, will mean slippage.

Oh wow. Am I reading the graph correctly in that the run with poncams made 53kw more top-end (ignoring the mid-range gain as well because I can't see that axis) with less boost? If that's the case then I may start thinking about poncams more seriously as well lol. What are the specs on those cams, are they Type-B's, ie. 260's???

I also agree it looks like a restriction somewhere though, what's going on with the shape of the curve Jez, was that caused by the exhaust?

no u dont, what you (me also) need to do is get VCT running so we can get a fatter mid range! lol

no u dont, what you (me also) need to do is get VCT running so we can get a fatter mid range! lol

Yeh but I'm already onto that and it hasn't costed me any money yet, that's no fun! :P

By the way, hoping to have results for my latest setup around the middle to end of this month. Just need to get my throttle cable issue sorted and then I'll book it in for a tune. VCT should now be working, so fingers crossed I've got it all right this time haha.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...