Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Problem is my housing is made the way it is with the gate attached..would be alot of effort to change it, making a new housing and all..I can do a billet wheel no worries though..

Try an "F1 racing" clutch, which also goes by the name "gripforce". I have one in my car and i know of several in cars pushing 300+rwkw and going for 2 years+. Not bad for a $250 clutch :thumbsup:

I managed to organise a clutch from a bloke in Sydney KB clutch engineering.

He came recommended by a few of the ACT peeps once of which is running one in their GTR which is still holding up with 5k launches.

The guy sent me the following quote via SMS so I dont know what it all is but this is how it came:

HD cover assy

HD clutch plate organic facing SBF

Release bearing

Freight to canberra

$410

Nothing wrong with organic for the street....though not sure about 5k launches.

I have a JB in the R33 and an NPC in the fat slug (so much better than the 2nd cushioned button that it replaced).

I had a extra x2 heavy duty organic and died pretty quickly with my old 33 and 250rwkw just slipped while driving in 3rd one day

If I did it again I would get a extra x3 heavy duty cushion button it's really street friendly and u won't need to upgrade any time soon and wont have to waste 350-400 for labor to fit another clutch when the organic dies

If I did it again I would get a extra x3 heavy duty cushion button it's really street friendly and u won't need to upgrade any time soon and wont have to waste 350-400 for labor to fit another clutch when the organic dies

Have you got the part number?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R31-R32-R33-RB25-DET-ENGINE-/220939836848?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33710a5db0

I have a JB in the R33 and an NPC in the fat slug (so much better than the 2nd cushioned button that it replaced).

which do you prefer??

Those were the only 2 clutches I considered, otherwise I was going twin plate..

I ended up with a freshly rebuilt NPC 10' and flywheel for half price of a new one...

but can anyone tell me if flywheel bolts are 12mm cause if they're not I have a problem :unsure:..??

Both are great streetable clutches. I would be happy with either.

The JB required modification to fit, something JB denies was necessary but was required. It came with a Valeo pressure plate from memory.

The NPC/Exedy has been faultless.

I think I would have no issues doing above, infact I know the SS1PU is slightly larger then the GT-RS all around and was pretty consistent when on the dyno. I'll be back with few more wastegate side updates and can do some comparisons with what Trent's got in his PC.

Also found most tuners would retard timing as "insurance" for stock motor when it do hit 20psi. That explains the missing mid range, an update to the wastegate assembly is made, so all new units would have no issues holding boost using EBC with a 14psi actuator. Also the updated module is available for all ATR43 series at a cheap cost.

For that Billet TD06 there is no way it can be modified into a stockie bolton the possition of the turbine outlet is way off to stock 6 bolt nissan pattern. So it will have to be the way it is. I'm planing to let trent do some tests on his New Ceffero.

Trent should have a couple of GTRS tunes on RB's. I know Dave has one on there with nismo 555cc and EBC. Easy to compare...

Its been a while seeing the Greedy copies around with few good working examples. So we've imported few. The first one I'm interested to try is the TD06SL2 in 10cm with T3 flange turbine housing running 20G Billet compressor wheel.

It has been pulled apart and rebalanced (tolerance is about twice higher then where I normally set them to, its now corrected). to make sure every thing can work accordingly.

Those turbos are externally gated only and available to every one for $850 including GST and 12 month local warranty. I will refer to it as the EXGBTD06SL2

turbo.jpg

turbine.jpg

Looking through the turbine design, it appears been able to make plenty of torque, but I'm not too sure about response. There is also room in FNT turbine upgrade. I might be able to adapt internal gate onto it with the Nissan 6 bolt flange.

Just noticed in the Kando thread about cracked td06 turbine wheel.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/347726-kando-dynamics-turbo/page__view__findpost__p__6306795

Compare to what you've offering for sale above, Since above is also made from the same origin, is yours same or better? any idea on whats causing the problem?

The turbine wheel bends backwards or break vertically during a course of impact. The horizontal crack is from Heat, some thing to do with the material content of the alloy its made of. Generally running E85 and external gate plus not so much boost would keep the EGT low, that avoids issues like above.

How ever I have seen similar problem from a T70 Chinese turbo years back that was used on a Ford 4L +T. The car initially made 370rwkws on pump 98 for a while before the driver noticed lack of performance through time. The turbine wheel had lots of horizontal cracks with chucks missing, the edge of the wheel blade appeared rough like a wire brush. Luckily the it was a old T04 copy so I managed to rebuild it with a geninue Garrett wheel and it was all good.

Most turbo builders would contract specialized foundries to forge their parts to the specifications they require. The single incident is not good enough to conclude Kando or all other Greedy copies are bad, certainly there are many more working examples plus mine is yet to be trailed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...