Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Those wastegate studs you are inserting will reduce the area of the wastegate making boost creep uptop same as if you've got an wastegate that is too small. Except the extend of creep is fully controllable. Insert a stud at once. Method is debatably but I've used it quite often at trents and it appears to be working well.

Also an update. This is the very first billet SS1PU core that we high flowed into a M35 Stega's OEM turbo for a Scotty's customers. The car made 300rwkws on the auto with E85 at about 20psi of boost. I'll still need to take acount in modifying the OEM wastegate assebly on those for better boost control using this core. Will upload dynosheet later.

hey there im the one u did the turbo for, car is just on caltex eflex not e85 so there is abit of room for improvement but i wont be taking that path scottys going down that path :P mine was actualy done in 4wd not rwd as i didnt have the shaft out as im a lazy bastard im very happy with how it came out its not laggy at all and ive been driving it heaps done 400kms already and it drives very much like a standard car cruises well etc but with the boot into it its just insane very happy with the result of it, i got a little vid of it as it was ramping up on the dyno it got to bout 306-307kw from what i can see but it averaged out to the above dyno graph which im more than happy with as i dont want to blow the driveline thats why i didnt want more boost into it. but none the less im extremely happy thanks again to sao and scott for all their help

Edited by sky^rkt

Further update on the SS1PU Prototype:

This is latest design using FNT .G3 turbine housing and I've trailed it with a SS1PU core. The aim is for better consistency as larger turbine housing don't creep as much heat.

After tailing handful of different FNT nozzles arrangements, this one generated the best result. It has slightly more down low, same power but much heavier punch. I'll be using this on the G3 core next, and hopping to see 300rwkws on pump with much better response.

This is also the first result based on my new Adaptronic plugin ECU, as I've removed the Nistune with Z32 AFM. Big thank to Trent contribution extra time getting every thing running 100%

power.jpg

boost.jpg

Will be retuning elusivitys car tonight with the mods Tao has recommended to help hold the boost up high RPM. Let u guys know tonight

What else did recommend besides the wastegate extension?

Interested to see if it can help hold boost up top!

What else did recommend besides the wastegate extension?

Interested to see if it can help hold boost up top!

Actually rather than the wastegate extention he recommended 2x M8 @ 50mm allen key head bolts to replace the grab screws in the rear housing, he reckons the theory is the same, more clamping force on the actuator, should keep the wastegate closed later and help hold it up at the top. For $1 each, it'll be an awesome upgrade if it works!

Im fairly sure the grub screw reduces the effective waste gate size by blocking some of its flow path

Stao should jump in right about now lol

My fully sick JJR strut brace doesn't fit back on with my PU highflow (even when i bent the shit out of it) because all of the I/C piping sits about an inch higher than stock...

Anyone know of an R33 strut bar that has more clearance?

Cool story, right bro?

My fully sick JJR strut brace doesn't fit back on with my PU highflow (even when i bent the shit out of it) because all of the I/C piping sits about an inch higher than stock...

Anyone know of an R33 strut bar that has more clearance?

Cool story, right bro?

I think you've done something wrong...

Custom piping would have been easier, or rotating the housing if possible to help fit the stock pipes? I don't think bending the strut brace will help much. lol.

Some updates regarding to the Electric turbo. lol.

Now running duel roller bearing with 44V 6KW motor spooling up to 48000RPMs. Its makes very strong thrust. If i'm holding it on a skate board I'm pretty sure it will push me forward. Should've thought of making it into a back pack for a bicycle.

Since its working I'll be testing it on E85 in about 2 weeks time.

font1.jpg

front2.jpg

I think you've done something wrong...

Well, thank you for the productive feedback. I think (and am happy to be corrected) that the turbine housing on this turbo is a different size/shape than the standard one. It seems to me that this difference in size/shape has caused the compressor housing to sit higher than the standard one. Thus, the outlet elbow and crossover pipe also sit a little higher.

But you're right, I've probably just assembled the whole thing upside down...

Custom piping would have been easier, or rotating the housing if possible to help fit the stock pipes? I don't think bending the strut brace will help much. lol.

Yeah, i was going to clock the housing however the actuator mounting prevents me from moving the housing around the amount I need. The bend in the strut brace almost worked, but it became too short to line up with the strut-top mounting holes! ;-)

So I guess the question is whether it can sustain a positive manifold pressure and, if so, whether it drains more engine power than it gives.

Well, thank you for the productive feedback. I think (and am happy to be corrected) that the turbine housing on this turbo is a different size/shape than the standard one. It seems to me that this difference in size/shape has caused the compressor housing to sit higher than the standard one. Thus, the outlet elbow and crossover pipe also sit a little higher.

But you're right, I've probably just assembled the whole thing upside down...

No need for the sarcasm mate. I'm using a much larger turbo than you and my strut brace fit fine. You are also the first person I have seen complain of this problem, ergo you've done something differently to everyone else. Unless Stao has positioned the housings wrong.

What elbow are you using from the compressor outlet, silicon? Can you upload a picture to show what exactly the problem is, maybe I'm picturing it wrong?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...