Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good luck with everything Hanaldo!

What is a decent low mount exhaust manifold to upgrade to from the stock r33 one? Ideally one that would allow the use of the same dump/front pipe?

Finally started car for first time after installing the ATR43 G2 in the car and I'm a little worried. First turned car on for short period (1/2mins just making sure all intake setup was alright and no vacuum leaks) and saw steam start coming off the turbo so turned car off straight away.

I hadn't put coolant in the car yet so I hit myself in the head then refilled it all waited a little while and started car again. Was letting it idle to bleed the coolant and again lots of steam started coming off the turbo pretty quickly. Am I being paranoid or is it likely my coolant feed has gotten blocked off? I am still using the steel lines and obviously had to 'adjust' them so that they would fit up to the new turbo.

Finally started car for first time after installing the ATR43 G2 in the car and I'm a little worried. First turned car on for short period (1/2mins just making sure all intake setup was alright and no vacuum leaks) and saw steam start coming off the turbo so turned car off straight away.

I hadn't put coolant in the car yet so I hit myself in the head then refilled it all waited a little while and started car again. Was letting it idle to bleed the coolant and again lots of steam started coming off the turbo pretty quickly. Am I being paranoid or is it likely my coolant feed has gotten blocked off? I am still using the steel lines and obviously had to 'adjust' them so that they would fit up to the new turbo.

It's more likely to be smoke. You most likely had a bit of oil on your hands or you dripped a bit from the oil line, which is now on the rear housing or the dump pipe. It will just smoke a bit until it burns off, nothing to be concerned about.

Mine bellowed smoke for a good couple of minutes burning all the shit that I put on touching it the whole time.

Give it a few minutes and it will go away.

If it doesn't then check all the water lines going to it.

99% it's going to be the dirty turbo

Yeap. Every time I do a turbo on my own or another car I get lots and lots of smoke as it burns off my grubby paw prints.

Just make sure you are checking for liquid leaks. No leaks, no worries, let it keep running.

Awesome thanks guys I know i def got oil and such on the turbo my hands were covered in crap haha. The turbo shouldn't get hot enough to damage it on idle even if it is getting restricted water going through to it do you think?? I mean the oil is still flowing through it and some turbos are oil cooled only.

I looked for leaks and didn't seem to be any which I was happy about

Just make sure the oil line supplied with turbo is used and actuator is tightly shut with preload. Then that will he fine. Water is optional, they also works fine with no water.

Check your heater drain hose isn't fouling against the turbo too, this will give you a burning rubber/mechanical smell when the turbo heats up. I tied my hose back with a cable tie and it's been sweet since.

could have also cracked a water line when manipulating it, pissing a small stream of coolant onto the rear housing/dump pipe

easiest way to tell: what does it smell like?

S1 R33

3 inch dump,high flow cat, 3 inch exhaust

Apexi metal intake pipe with pod --- problem?

China fmic --- problem?

044 fuel pump

660cc high flow injectors

Superspark coils with copper plugs @.8

Nistune ecu

Eboost street

SS1pu

277.0hp @17psi

There isn't any boost leaks, we checked while there. I also double clamped all the pipes to make doubly sure.

I did check at the time whether i pulled all the rags out as well.

It's got me stumped, any ideas??

post-85384-0-31077300-1337587207_thumb.jpg

Drop the exhaust, that seems way too laggy.

Brand spanking new Apexi n1 pro installed on saturday.

I know whats wrong. Because he's from Perth. :D

Could be, could be ;)

Although last week the egt light came on for 2 minutes, then went away. But i checked out the cat when i put the exhaust on and it looked ok (3 months old)

This turbo generally makes a responsive 260rwkws with 18psi of boost, confirmed by couple of members.

Pre-dyno tuning you should have:

Proper aftermarket ECU that is designed for the model of engine

It appears to me like a R32 ECU + Nistune with no VCT activation.

Mechanically sounded engine

Make sure compression are good, base timing is correct and matches with ECU data.

Spilt fire coil packs with correct “copper” spark plugs

Good quality fuel injectors and a good fuel pump with a new fuel filter.

Good and effective 600x300x75mm intercooler, that excludes most of return flows.

Have a feel on the cold end with your hand after each dyno pull. Good cooler remains cold.

At least 3inch “metal” induction pipe with a free flow pod filter. This excludes:

Re-enforced or modified based on stock rubber intake pipe

Random ebay cast metal pipe made for factory turbo.

Custom pipe that goes into a sealed factory airbox.

If above is what you have make sure you change it refer to working examples from this thread.

At least 3 inch free flow exhaust

Excluding certain restrictive cats

Excluding restrictive mufflers

Good way to test it is by dropping off the exhaust pre-cat. substantial gain means restrictive exhaust system.

The last thing is the Tune. There are bad tune related examples from Perth, and there is very little that I can help with, apart from sending you a Nistune map based on the same turbo for reference. Give a try at "All star garage".

If there is a sincere believe of a fault on the turbocharger, then I'm happy to have it fully tested on a good setup in return of testing result and tune map, any defects found will be repaired.

No way am i disrespecting the turbo, i'm just after peoples opinions as to what could be the problem.

I will try a new fmic setup and a 3 inch all the way intake though, the apexi one is 4 inch - 2.5 inch.I'm starting to lean towards the cat at the moment tho.

As far as the Nistune, it's out of a zx and vct is fine, timing was also checked at the tuners.

I'll keep scratching my head, i guess i was hoping for someone to say "that's what's wrong you f***ing idiot"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...