Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi hypergear mate. just a suggestion for ya, dunno if you agree. when you post up your turbos i rekn u shud put the price of it up aswell next to the model code. i always go on there and see them and im like ooh i wonder how much that one is. dont wanna pm you about every one i see every new day or whatever

Have you thought about how youre going to get home, because it's 400 odd kms and I don't think you will make it on one tank of e85. Is there a servo on the highway that sells it?

Might have to carry a few jerry cans with you?

I was going to try for a dual map setup.

Just use a laptop to switch between 85 and pump

So get it tuned with Jez and then drive home on 98?

I dont know how easy this will be or not

The only issue with dual maps is while the transition between fuels is happening there may be some residual fuel left which can affect the tune till it is all out. Aslong as u dont drive hard during the transition

I was going to try for a dual map setup.

Just use a laptop to switch between 85 and pump

So get it tuned with Jez and then drive home on 98?

I dont know how easy this will be or not

Oh ok, it'd probably be a bit of a sl*t initially when you change maps but I can't see why it wouldn't work. You will probably end up on 98 most of the time because there's limited access to eflex in Canberra.

Probably best to chat with Jez about it and see what he thinks.

Edit: Jez just posted in here

Edited by Mitcho_7

The only issue with dual maps is while the transition between fuels is happening there may be some residual fuel left which can affect the tune till it is all out. Aslong as u dont drive hard during the transition

Is there any way around this?

Such as what stao said where he has the pickup right in the bottom of the tank.

I cant afford to run 85 all the time and I can no way afford a flex setup haha

Is there any way around this?

Such as what stao said where he has the pickup right in the bottom of the tank.

I cant afford to run 85 all the time and I can no way afford a flex setup haha

85 is cheaper per litre but it contains less energy, so it probably work out the same as 98 cost wise/distance travelled.

I think if you're going e85 commit and run it all the time or theres no point really.

Then have the 98 map as a backup if you are caught somewhere that doesn't have it

Edited by Mitcho_7

Yeah thats what would be happening.

I would be using the girlfriends car when traveling to the coast etc.

Just need it as a back up if I get stuck.

**Stao when you get in here mate let me know if you have ever put the SS1PU on 85 or if its going to happen.

Would love to see results

I agree, you will end up never going back to 98 anyway once you have felt the powerz. You can feel good everytime you get on the gas too, its green fuel, carbon neutral so your'e doing the planet a favour dropping that skid. :)

I thought about that mitch but I just cant get my head around the costs of it.

Probably should sit down and work out everything.

See which is most cost effective

Wmi will probably work out more long term. The cost of the kit is comparable to injectors etc so that's negligible.

Its Mostly due to the fact that the price of 98 will get higher because it's dictated by the cost of oil which we don't have much (if any) supply of our own, so we are at the mercy of OPEC and the us dollar cross rate. You also have to get methanol ($80 for 20l). Whereas e85 should be a steadier cost because it's made from things we have an abundance of on shore.

Edited by Mitcho_7

Fark cheaper then the SS1PU

SS1PU is the response king though, still loving 3rd gear at legal speeds :)

Is there any way around this?

Such as what stao said where he has the pickup right in the bottom of the tank.

I cant afford to run 85 all the time and I can no way afford a flex setup haha

If you have 1-2 litres of E85 in the bottom of the tank and you fill with 60 litres of 98, as long as your 98 tune isn't on a knife edge, it's not going to die in the ass. Better yet, get an emergency tune made up, based on a couple of litres of E85 being left in the tank and then filled up with 98...

E content sensor will be handy too.

Maybe just get Jez to tune both maps with 5 or so litres of the other fuel in the tank?

Yeah this would be good.

And as Birds said make sure its not knife edge which I know Jez doesnt tune like this.

SS1PU is the response king though, still loving 3rd gear at legal speeds :)

This is very true but 2nd gear is snapping into 3rd is my fav!

It steps out out when ever you plant it in 2nd.

Have you fixed your clutch slip?

Whereas e85 should be a steadier cost because it's made from things we have an abundance of on shore.

Scotty would have a better idea about this than me but it seems like E85 pricing goes up and down in conjunction with regular petrol pricing. If 98pulp goes to $2 I highly doubt E85 will still be under $1.20 or even $1.50...

Caltex is 20c less than unleaded. United were 10c less, but they just dropped 15c off the price so 25c less than unleaded. They both have ethanol plants in Queensland now but I'm not sure the Caltex one is operational.

The price is set against oil for some reason, sounded dodgy as hell. I have the email from Caltex about it and I posted it in the E85 thread a year or two ago.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...