Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

122mph sounds a tad unrealistic for 250kw tbh - complete turn around to the other turbos which were getting too low for the power! Will be interesting to hear what it does on a proper dragstrip :)

122mph sounds a tad unrealistic for 250kw tbh - complete turn around to the other turbos which were getting too low for the power! Will be interesting to hear what it does on a proper dragstrip :)

Trying to organise a spot on a different dyno tomorrow.

Small dyno day down here in Canberra, so I will see what happens.

Also in a few weeks I will get up to the drag strip in Sydney

250rwkw r33 (Full weight)

14.300 @ 122.6mph

14.909 @ 119.92mph

Does this sound about right?

Got these results from the SAU Nats Airport run

Have you weighed your car?

I drove mine down to the local council refuse tip, and weighed it on both weighbridges to get and average. It urns out a stock auto R32 GTST with a full tank of gas weighs 1385KG. A tad more than the 1280kg quoted in the Skyline book. Obviously you need to know your own weight and subtract it from the reading on the weighbridge.

Edited by Missileman

Have you weighed your car?

I drove mine down to the local council refuse tip, and weighed it on both weighbridges to get and average. It urns out a stock auto R32 GTST with a full tank of gas weighs 1385KG. A tad more than the 1280kg quoted in the Skyline book. Obviously you need to know your own weight and subtract it from the reading on the weighbridge.

was talking to a weighbridge guy a while back...said the averagely loaded commodore (inc driver ,fuel, junk in the trunk etc) weighs in at 2 tonne :woot:

What surprised me was the entry bridge weighed the car at 1395 and the exit weighed 1375kg. Our council is ripping us 20Kgs

Edited by Missileman

Its actually very fast, the power delivery is so gradual theres hardly any wheel spin. I'm getting some mickey thompson drag tyres and hitting the strip soon.I think this one can get into the 11sec mark

slick and front runners...should do 10's...

cheers

darren

So stao what specs is that turbo you put up? Same wheels as a 2535 but larger trim.? Originally I thought 270rwkw would be possible on e85 but the more I think about what r31nismoid said the more I think it will run out up top as the -7 and -9s do on e85. Plus the rear housing is a tiny .64. Wonder how a 2535 would have gone if they made a slightly larger ar rear housing.??? Does anyone think it would be worth putting a billet wheel in. Would it make any difference.

For the SS1, It was too small for a Rb25det, I only recommend it for Rb20/SR20 det engines and they works well.

I did built a .86 version of it and it appeared that compressor went out of puff around 5000RPMs resulting a sharp dip in the power band maxing out similar power level to the .64

power.jpg

52T and 56T 76mm wheels were also trailed, the EGT shot through the roof.

It was a long project but the .86 version did ended up working and refined. the development and testing blog is in this thread if any one like to read, the final version is called the SS1PU.

power.jpg

Swapped steel bearings back to ceramic rollers in the SS2. Its made very noticeable difference in down low throttle response, and I'm aware lot of turbochargers used in rally cars are ceramic bearinged for out of corner speed.

How ever colleges and people I know in the trade choice to support steel bearings, more or less due to the durability of the ceramic surface under heavy load. The majority of turbochargers that we've repaired in the past are steel bearinged also, probably due to the quantity distributed, I have yet to receive a ceramic bearinged turbocharger for overhaul.

Any of you guys experienced ceramic roller bearing turbo failures? if so how long have it lasted at what boost. Cheers.

I've seen/used/serviced ceramic bearing turbo/other applications in stationary and large marine engine applications... Also in refrigeration/air compressor compressors. Never seen a failure other than lubrication contaminant. Although, most of those applications were slower shaft speeds, less heat... but heavier loads. Ceramic bearings are also used gas turbine engines... increased efficiency (less rotational friction) and better heat handling (less thermal expansion and heat load).

Cheers

Justin

Thanks for the info. It appears the steel bearings are much quiter in high boost. It is also much cheaper to stock, I will be looking into it a bit more.

This is a pretty interesting turbocharger that I worked on recently. An IHI RH5 twin scroll, twin internal gated. actually has gate in individual pulses. It was very dead when it got here. Now high flowed into a SS1. twin plus VNT turbine is still work in progress, will do further trails once complete before further looking into building some crazy high flows using stock housings.

twinentryeturbine.JPG

front2.JPG

turbine.JPG

Trying to organise a spot on a different dyno tomorrow.

Small dyno day down here in Canberra, so I will see what happens.

Also in a few weeks I will get up to the drag strip in Sydney

How did that go? I saw in another thread that the 119-122mph trap speeds for for 800m - not 400... that explains a lot!

i've just ordered a lot of gearbox seals and bits to fix my leaks.

I'll have us an SR SS1PU drag result soon.


Will give hy_rpm a yell too, see how the two compare.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...