Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you mean trap speed, it is the speed that a car crosses the line at. For example you could have a honda civic going flat chat for a 15 second quarter mile at like 85mph or whatever, and a nitro funny car that cruises to half track then nails it to the line. This could also be a 15 sec 1/4, but the mph could be at like 130mph.

For street cars that are all going flat out all the way to the line, it gives a pretty good indication of horsepower for a given car's weight, since it's detached from the quarter mile measurement, and not affected anywhere near as much by launch ability of the driver or traction the car has as the ET is.

Thanks for the info. I will look into those.

It seems most of the cars that managed to run good times had stupidly large turbochargers on. From the turbo to engine size ratio on those things appeared to be very laggy. That's probably when launch control comes handy. Turbo building option for fast on quarters and feel good on road can be very different.

Be interested to see result from the laggier 431rwkws G4 profile as well as the new Sl20.5 and Sl25.5. With proper tyres and gear shifter.

Thanks for the info. I will look into those.

It seems most of the cars that managed to run good times had stupidly large turbochargers on. From the turbo to engine size ratio on those things appeared to be very laggy. That's probably when launch control comes handy. Turbo building option for fast on quarters and feel good on road can be very different.

Be interested to see result from the laggier 431rwkws G4 profile as well as the new Sl20.5 and Sl25.5. With proper tyres and gear shifter.

Which good times are you talking about?

It tends to be easier to run a good time with a quicker spooling turbo for the power level - at least in my experience, torque wins races and all that stuff. Sometimes you have to be a bit more careful to feather the throttle etc with a more accessible powerband, it seems lots of people get overexcited and give their cars too many RPM off the line when launching.

Obviously when you put stickier tyres on and get better shifts you will go much quicker, but at the moment the ETs you have done are in the realms of much less powerful cars on street tyres (ie, I did similar with 100+kw less and shit tyres - just a lower trap speed due to way less power).

125mph in a 1400ish KG car should be able to net a 10, should it not?

If you had a 1.5 or so 60' maybe, would be very hard to get that into the 10's on a H pattern manual unless you are top shit behind the wheel.

If you had a 1.5 or so 60' maybe, would be very hard to get that into the 10's on a H pattern manual unless you are top shit behind the wheel.

Good 60ft, but no 1.5 by any stretch and as you can hear the shifts aren't lightning quick - stock H-pattern, full interior, pump gas with stock bottom end with a 35R... 10.6 @ 128mph makes at least nearly hitting 10s seem realistic with 125mph:

Dyno that the power claim is from was quite a high reading hub dyno, but it had a lot of clout for a stock motor

Thanks for the info. I will look into those.

It seems most of the cars that managed to run good times had stupidly large turbochargers on. From the turbo to engine size ratio on those things appeared to be very laggy. That's probably when launch control comes handy. Turbo building option for fast on quarters and feel good on road can be very different.

Be interested to see result from the laggier 431rwkws G4 profile as well as the new Sl20.5 and Sl25.5. With proper tyres and gear shifter.

Yep if manual you need a two step or anti lag to get a big turbo up

Also the bigger the turbo with a manual, the harder it is to use drag radials over slicks as they don't absorb as much shock

and the big stuff has a narrower powerband and needs a big clutch dump usually

Auto not so bad, just good torque converter and gas it if you can't get it up

cheers

darren

If you had a 1.5 or so 60' maybe, would be very hard to get that into the 10's on a H pattern manual unless you are top shit behind the wheel.

And IRS as well ..its very hard to get a IRS manual car into the 10's with 125mph...128 is more typical

that r33 must have still 60ft in the low 1.6's?

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

The 3540 in 1.06 turbine is a huge turbo for a Rb25det, and he's only 3m/h faster, I think I can get that mileage on 23psi with G3 on MT tyres.

And yes I'm making an 11 blade wheel profile for the SL2 at moment. Aiming at T67's power with 20G's response.

Oh hey guys, I found this cool video online. Apparently its an SR20 with an SS1PU.

Enjoy.

Vwmhe.jpg Powered by VideoBam - Free Video Hosting

^^

That is very responsive for a SR20det. Not your car?

Also latest video from SSRicho. 1.31 lap time run at winton raceway.

R33 skyline. running our 21U high flow on 263rwkws.

Hi guys just thought i would post a couple of videos with the little mods i have done

Only mod i had done before these was when i boosted the stock turbo to around 11 psi

This is when i took off the old exhaust and before i installed the 3" exhaust

This is when i installed a 3" turbo back exhaust

My cousin had a VL High flow turbo that i decided to put in, with a few mods we made it fit.

i had to get a new oil line ($120) made, because my dump pipe from the turbo to the cat was 1 piece i had it get that modified to suit the VL dump pipe ($250 exhaust mod), had to find the a VL dump pipe and saw a few days earlier that one sold on ebay for $80 but after 1 day of searching on a friday and having to have the car running over the weekend i ended up buying the only i could find for $300 and all the extra piping for the intake and in-between the compressor housing and intercooler which worked out to be around another $50.

Total spent $520 plus what ever my cousin wants for the turbo which he said he paid around $500 which apparently was run for a round 5000km's and rated to 25 psi.

A lot more turbo lag in 1st and 2nd it wont start boosting until 3000 rpm but 3rd gear and over it boosts well. Only running it at just under 8 psi it is significantly faster then before. the night i left i raced another r34 and he told me he had a 3" exhaust and he had boosted it to 10 psi, he had me on take off but as soon i started boosting there was clear winner :) …… it wasn't a proper race it was like a slow rolling start but you could clearly see the improvement.

This was just me taking of from a friends house

Now i really want a FMIC and probably need a fuel reg can anyone recommend brands?

my cousin also said he has a O2 censor that goes to lcd screen so we can work out how much more we can boost it safely……………….does anyone know a safe limit to boost it too once i get an intercooler assuming i have enough fuel being available?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...