Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought a wheel and tire package 3 years ago and I have no idea what those rims are apart from they fits. lol

Any way. quick update. This is our latest VNT turbine system using a ball bearing SS2 core. I don't have a high speed camera so this footage was taken with a air blower meter away from the turbine housing with VNT nozzles engaged and disengaged at low shaft speed. Notice the change in shaft speed with VNT nozzles engaged.


Will be testing it next week when Trent has time, and hopefully I will get stock response with 370rwkws.

This is a dyno reading sent from a customer in Sweden using a older model ATR43G3 in .82 type A rear. made 477rwhp on pump 98 fuel.

257470-2984192.jpg

257470-3108535.jpg

Its got ebay manifold that holds the turbocharger in stock position, internally gated with all the bolton bits.

Can't understand their language, details are at:

http://www.garaget.org/?car=257470

I don't think any part of this package would survive on 40psi, been told its running 20psi.

Well that sheet shows about 280kpa or 40 psi. I guess that's why peak torque is a little late at 6k? Seems to be at 20psi just before 4k which is normal. Interesting

It's saying absolute pressure, it's running about 175kpa gauge pressure so 26-27psi

Thats my tire pressure. ;)

We were in Heathcote again today. The car's having some issues, I might have installed the new fuel pump too high as it had fuel surging issues, gear stick snapped out, and since the new tyres gripped lot hard the diff seems to let loose. Its occasionally doing one wheel launch. Not sure which diff to get yet.

Over all we did end up with 4 good runs and the best one was 12.26 with 124.76 M/H

The tire shop pumped my tires to 40psi. We first dropped it to 26psi, then further down to 16psi which it grip the most.

It started to rain in the afternoon, so the day ended early. will post some videos later on.

Felt that on the way back. the car skits heavily to one side. He did mention about welding them together. or not sure if there is any one whom can modify stock diff to make them stronger.

Alternatively I was thinking buying a kaaz diff. not sure which one is better to get 1.5 or 2 way? It is a road car and I do drive a fare distance testing new turbos, I still want it to handle smoothly on road.

The cheapest way to get extra lock without welding is to pull the diff apart and replace the worn out shims with slightly thicker ones, which can be bought from Nissan. It can feel like a welded diff afterwards for some time though which is a huge PITA when you're driving around normally, but now you get powah to both wheels :P

Felt that on the way back. the car skits heavily to one side. He did mention about welding them together. or not sure if there is any one whom can modify stock diff to make them stronger.

Alternatively I was thinking buying a kaaz diff. not sure which one is better to get 1.5 or 2 way? It is a road car and I do drive a fare distance testing new turbos, I still want it to handle smoothly on road.

welded diff will handle fine as long as you keep driving straight :P

Also the shims for the diff cost about $14 from nissan with 2 week wait if they have to come from japan. Add the cost of diff oil in and its a fairy cheap way of having a nice tight diff.

Edited by iruvyouskyrine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mixing things up - installed some leather recaros to match the leather seat covered rear seats. Interior looks pretty schmick now except for some slight wear on the steering wheel which I will monitor and address if it becomes worse or actually noticeable!  
    • Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
×
×
  • Create New...