Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It definitely is interesting enough to make me wonder how it'd compare with the likes of the BW EFR8374, Precision 6262 and the HTA3582/HTA3586 (I suspect it fits somewhere in between) - oh to have the funds and means to do a shoot out between some of these units!

Yeaj how awesome would a shootout betwwen them all? Stao did say when he works out some production line type thing or something he was meaning I think it should bring the price down were his words. The ceramic bearings he uses alone are $400ish+ and are a fair level higger grade then the other top model turbochargers out there. :)

Josh

Post it up so I can compare all 3 results :)

I get full boost by easily 4000 rpm if not earlier

Might take a video and get you an exact rpm

I think there is a fair bit of difference in the mid range. Seems to be about 20kw until my boost drops off.

Hey Manuel,

Sorry for the dalay but i've got the time to post up my graphs for a comparo. I have just realised that your ss1 is in a R33 but it doesn't hurt to get some feedback

http://s1145.photobucket.com/user/morganjanusevski/media/20130911_142728.jpg.html

http://s1145.photobucket.com/user/morganjanusevski/media/20130911_142708.jpg.html

http://s1145.photobucket.com/user/morganjanusevski/media/998049_10151473799196403_1262221954_n.jpg.html - As she sits now, just got my BC BR coilovers delivered today & have a jap spec front bar & series 2 sideskirts which I'm in the process of painting as well.

Edited by MoJizzy

Some progress shots of my turbo getting ready. This was done today:

Posted Image

Posted Image

Just have to finish the dump and it can go in finally :)

Ill get some better photos for you Stao as it goes on

Looks good! Love how aussie the first photo is with a random thong!

and pm sent regarding your rear vent.

Edited by superben

Hey Manuel,

Sorry for the dalay but i've got the time to post up my graphs for a comparo. I have just realised that your ss1 is in a R33 but it doesn't hurt to get some feedback

http://s1145.photobucket.com/user/morganjanusevski/media/20130911_142728.jpg.html

http://s1145.photobucket.com/user/morganjanusevski/media/20130911_142708.jpg.html

http://s1145.photobucket.com/user/morganjanusevski/media/998049_10151473799196403_1262221954_n.jpg.html - As she sits now, just got my BC BR coilovers delivered today & have a jap spec front bar & series 2 sideskirts which I'm in the process of painting as well.

Hey Morgan.

Looking at your graph I have a strong feeling that your VCT is not working properly. Your car is nealry 1000rpm laggier than mine and for all intents and purposes it should be more responsive.

Get this checked out!

They are pretty decent power for stock cams, and notice the power curve is still on the rise all the way to red. I think PZP should be pretty happy with this out come. Check if VCT is working, fully agree. You can't skip teeth on the timing chain with the SRs can you? my skyline picked up heaps of response after timing belt correction.

Getting 465kw out of 850cc's makes me really wonder wtf is wrong with my setup getting 345kw maxxing out 800cc's at E60, on the same dyno with the same tuner ;p

Getting 465kw out of 850cc's makes me really wonder wtf is wrong with my setup getting 345kw maxxing out 800cc's at E60, on the same dyno with the same tuner ;p

Your package is less efficient.

Any details?

Your package is less efficient.

Any details?

465kw is actually a hell of a lot from 850cc injectors on E85, I had thought the same thing when I saw the result. By more efficient - I can assure you one thing, it's nothing to do with the turbo as all that does is moves air. Air fuel ratio literally means air/fuel, the power comes from a combo of the engine's ability to make a certain amount of power with a certain amount of fuel (and obviously air relates to that), and how much air is passing through it. The ability of a turbocharged spark ignited engine to make more/less power with a certain amount of air/fuel only varies by a few percent - so by "efficient" the following things are the most likely things I can think of:

1) The tune is leaner (less fuel for the amount of air)

2) The dyno is being more generous

3) The injectors are "very efficient" 850cc injectors?!

I can't think of anything else?!

I can't think of anything else?!

Sheer turbo efficiency could/would still play a part. One turbo running in the meat of the efficiency island is going to be able to have the engine run a lot more timing than another turbo that's operating somewhere off to the side of the island with another 60°C or more air temp. Assuming something like the same PR and total flow for both turbos of course.

That actually has all sorts of compounding effects too. Hotter air is travelling faster and has a higher pressure drop through the pipes, IC and TB. So the less efficient turbo actually has to crank out a bit more boost in order to gain the same pressure in the inlet manifold. Depending on what side of the island you are on, this could increase or decrease the efficiency of the compressor. But even if you increase the efficiency, because it's running at a higher PR than it needs to, there is simply more heating of the gas anyway (I will stipulate that it is quite possible that an efficiency improvement might outweigh the simple adiabatic compression negative effect - I haven't tried to work it out just for this argument).

A "less efficient" turbo on the compressor side might well have more backpressure on the exhaust side too, further making things worse.

Now, if we're talking about the same turbo on both cars, that's a different matter. I didn't bother to check if both these guys are running the same turbo.

My car is not the poster child of efficiency by any means (too long to get into.. I may make a thread one day about it) but I didnt think it would result into such a huge difference for a very similar sized injector, when both were at 100% duty cycle (in my case). At least not by such a massive amount unless I actually have 100rwkw of restriction.. which may actually be the real reason.

I am going back for more boost with 1000cc's (when my appointment with Trent comes along..) and A FPR and new fuel pump to see if it can be maxxed out or at least to run proper e85 instead of religiously checking the ethanol % every fill up to avoid leaning out. Given the fact my Turbo cold side was designed in 2010, and it's sitting on a Low comp RB28 Neo that's auto, god only knows what it really 'should' be making, but I found the injectors being maxxed at 340 (at e60) when others max at 465 and e85 to be an indicator of something wrong with my setup :P

Almost everything you have mentioned there still comes down to air mass - an AFR relates to air mass (which accounts for pressure, density, flow etc) as opposed to psi - doesn't matter what heating or cooling has happened prior to reaching the cylinders, the air mass and fuel mass that get into the engine will be what cause what AFR you measure, and as such what amount of fuel needed to be moved by the injectors.

Sure, timing will affect the BSFC - but not that much, unless things were being pushed WAY too hard. But realistically the 465kw number is the anomaly, not the 340kw one.

[edit: Saw you were at 100% duty cycle] - Sounds like there is something wrong there, one is on the low side and one on the high :unsure:

Lith,

No I was putting a peg in the sand saying that both hypothetical turbos are running about the same flow and PR.....just achieving it differently from their relative compressor maps. So I took the mass of air out of it.

If you then squirt in the same amount of fuel and get the same AFR in the exhaust, the efficient turbo should give you more power. That is at minimum from the extra timing, but there's also the fact that a less efficient turbo is by definition using more energy from the exhaust gases and therefore is presenting a bigger restriction on exhaust flow, bigger ex manifold pressure, more charge contamination by exhaust, etc etc. All the other reasons why engines may or may not make power become available for consideration when you consider the consequences of poor turbo operating point.

Edited by GTSBoy

That exhaust restriction (or lack thereof) also plays a part in that air mass being moved, even though it is down stream. The raising exhaust manifold pressure is a symptom of the hold up - another symptom of a restrictive turbo hotside, exhaust system or whatever is the drop off in VE you see in the fuel map as rpm/load get up to the area a restriction starts forming.

Again, required fuel flow (especially with a very knock resistant fuel like E85) is the single best indicator of power potential

There is also the fact that the hotter charge takes more energy from the fuel as the fuel absorbs some of that heat. It is no secret that fuel coolers are used to get the enth on race cars.

My can of worms comment was pointing fingers at areas such as a more efficient compressor, better pipework and a better hot side. All of these will contribute to the general heat generated by the thing and will therefore govern what you can actually do with a volume of fuel. By no means should two cars with the same injectors, oversized turbos but otherwise entirely different setups both max out at the same amount of power just because the injectors will both be on 100%.

Staos result is possibly a little optimistic but we should also remember that Stao is a turbo developer with a test car, not a walk in customer with his pride and joy. I am sure Trent pushed a lot further on the test rig than he would be comfortable with on the average customers car. Possibly pushed beyond what most tuners would deem a safe limit.

the figure is high, but not astronomical or impossible.

I think most people would be surprised if word got out that 850cc is all you need for 465rwkw on E85 though. Every calculator that I found seems to insinuate it is above the ability for an 850cc injector.

I only know this as I was looking into finding out what 1000cc injectors would safely seem to support as I ran out of flow. :P As I said before, its entirely possible my result which is from a turbo smaller than Stao's 465kw one, and older, and generally very shit, so much so I never posted a result in this thread.....

is an indicator of other problems/restrictions (of which there are many if forum searches and general SAU hivemind would have you believe)

I would have thought as a complete layman that injector duty cycle is a good rule of thumb for power use at the engine, before restrictions everywhere else come into play. Especially restrictions to make that car look VIC Compatible, Mr Officer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...