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posting up an results. This is out of a R33 skyline with a .82 PU high flow that I've done about 4 years ago. It made 355rwkws @22psi internally gated on E85 with 1600cc injectors, ECU, FMIC, coil packs and 3inch turbo back exhaust.

355rwkws.jpg

Hey Kerrod, what exhaust manifold are you running with this setup?

thanks

Running a Hybrid performance steam pipe manifold with 45mm gate.

I'll take a better photo during the day.

Edited by KerrodR33

Here's a fresh result from yesterday, with the following changes to the car since the last run in October:

  • Full manual conversion using R34 gearbox and parts
  • Blitz Dual SBC Spec R electronic boost controller (the dual solenoid model)

It ran 266rwkw on the same dyno as last time, compared to 257rwkw last time with the auto. I'm a bit disappointed with the result – I thought there'd be more than 3% difference between auto and manual?

Also the EBC hasn't corrected the boost drop, what I wanted was a steady 20psi from when it goes on boost but we couldn't achieve that.

Any ideas on what could holding it back?

14189052755_8d32a4d352_c.jpg

Original results and full setup below:

R34 GTT automatic (Tiptronic) that previously had 150rwkw stock and 199rwkw with basic bolt-ons, a bit of boost and Nistune.

The setup:

  • Hypergear ATR43-SS2 internally gated on stock manifold
  • Stock airbox and snorkel
  • K&N panel filter
  • Z32 AFM
  • Scotty's 3" intake pipe
  • Trust turn flow intercooler
  • Turbotech V2 manual boost controller
  • Yellow Jacket coil packs
  • NGK BKR7EIX spark plugs regapped
  • Deatchwerks 800cc injectors
  • Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump
  • JJR 3" bellmouth front/dump (modified)
  • X-Force high flow cat
  • 3" HKS Super Drager cat back (modified)
  • Davies Craig Hydra Cool 678 auto trans cooler
  • Nistune

Result: 257rwkw @ ~17psi, BP 98 Octane
Installed and tuned by Chasers

This is a fairly conservative tune. For some more power, the car needs a better boost controller, possibly a pod intake, and a shift kit.

dyno_sheet_2013.jpg

Since you are in Melbourne. its probably best if you can drive it in for a quick check up. Its better to see the car while trouble shooting. Please call 0413457185 before dropping by.

  • Like 1

Since you are in Melbourne. its probably best if you can drive it in for a quick check up. Its better to see the car while trouble shooting. Please call 0413457185 before dropping by.

Awesome thanks Stao, I might be able to drop in on Saturday. I will give you a ring.

FYI i got same power @ 16psi on e85....lol, pretty much exact specs as you

Andrew at hyperdrive said tuning it with the Nistune was becoming a tad harder at that power, he couldnt get the afrs perfect.

I will most likely going back with a bigger fuel pump and seeing what that will help with more power

If not, ill be getting a Adaptronic from Stao

Its has a factory air box lid down and a complience cat. With those bits upgraded it will he able to hold higher boost up top for more power.

From memory nistune run out of tables after reaching 17psi on mine. Trent said the same thing, and i was upgraded to adaptronic.

Its has a factory air box lid down and a complience cat. With those bits upgraded it will he able to hold higher boost up top for more power.

From memory nistune run out of tables after reaching 17psi on mine. Trent said the same thing, and i was upgraded to adaptronic.

What? It can't run out of tables, they are able to be scaled.

What about blah blahs result of high 300kw with nistune.

I understand nistune on a 33 is a poor result as it isn't the factory ecu, but there are plenty of high power r34 examples.

Agreed. Nistune is no different to a PFC in ability to cope with more flow than standard. Just upgrade the AFM, recalculate the K factor and rescale load axis. Job done, 15 seconds worth of work. (Followed by a couple hours of dyno tuning!!)

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Like 1

Its has a factory air box lid down and a complience cat. With those bits upgraded it will he able to hold higher boost up top for more power.

Thanks for the chat yesterday Stao, awesome customer service indeed!!

Yeah so the cat is a basic ceramic X-force high flow cat, I'm not sure about the cell count. That's the first thing to check.

I've seen some 300+ results on the stock air box and would prefer to keep it on if I can.

Beyond this the Trust turn flow IC might need to be checked but again I've seen someone report close to 300rwkw using it..

Agreed. Nistune is no different to a PFC in ability to cope with more flow than standard. Just upgrade the AFM, recalculate the K factor and rescale load axis. Job done, 15 seconds worth of work. (Followed by a couple hours of dyno tuning!!)

My apologies, Just noticed its a R34, mine wasn't. Might be a different or a older chip, or tuner didn't try hard enough to get it working.

My apologies, Just noticed its a R34, mine wasn't. Might be a different or a older chip, or tuner didn't try hard enough to get it working.

Even then it shouldn't be harder on an R33 once you actually have a Nistuned ECU into the car. In some respects the R34 Nistune is a lot harder to tune because it's got VE tables that get in the way of conventional tuning thinking.

Here's a fresh result from yesterday, with the following changes to the car since the last run in October:

  • Full manual conversion using R34 gearbox and parts
  • Blitz Dual SBC Spec R electronic boost controller (the dual solenoid model)

It ran 266rwkw on the same dyno as last time, compared to 257rwkw last time with the auto. I'm a bit disappointed with the result – I thought there'd be more than 3% difference between auto and manual?

Also the EBC hasn't corrected the boost drop, what I wanted was a steady 20psi from when it goes on boost but we couldn't achieve that.

Any ideas on what coul

The blitz controllers can be annoying to configure....but check your gain setting isn't masking the issue. Set your gain low ...like 5. then set your boost level until you reach your desired boost ... i've found when you crank up the gain it can overboost and then taper off too quickly rather than building to the peak boost.

  • Like 1

The blitz controllers can be annoying to configure....but check your gain setting isn't masking the issue. Set your gain low ...like 5. then set your boost level until you reach your desired boost ... i've found when you crank up the gain it can overboost and then taper off too quickly rather than building to the peak boost.

That's right, spot on!

Also check you didn't enable the over boost protection too low as it will add on negative gain if a particular threshold is met.

  • Like 2

The blitz controllers can be annoying to configure....but check your gain setting isn't masking the issue. Set your gain low ...like 5. then set your boost level until you reach your desired boost ... i've found when you crank up the gain it can overboost and then taper off too quickly rather than building to the peak boost.

That's right, spot on!

Also check you didn't enable the over boost protection too low as it will add on negative gain if a particular threshold is met.

also instead of watching peak hold, set it to show actual boost and read if it drops off.

Thanks guys! I wonder if anyone else has a Dual SBC Spec-R configured with a Hypergear SS2, if so what settings do you run?

I've just checked mine and it's set up as follows:

Modes:

1 30

2 35

3 45

4 55

M 0

Off -

Warn 1.40

S C 2

Other:

Boost -48 cmHg (on idle)

Peak 1.34 hkPa (= 19.4 PSI)

Gain 20

It was set on channel 4 when I picked it up from the tuner so I assume that's matching the highest readings in the 266rwkw dyno run above. I will need to check with them if they played around with gain or not, don't really want to touch anything not to muck it up.

Also I thought I could use this as a boost gauge but it's pretty hard to read , and the units are all over the place (what is cmHg??)...

(Ps. I'm happy to move this to another thread if needed)

if you hold down the mode button on mode 1 2 3 & 4 is the gain 20 all the way through them? you can set it differently for each mode by holding down the mode button for three seconds then adjusting with the select button.

Edited by Badgaz

I just drove my car home after finishing changing the turbo(and a million other things). Im liking this turbo whatever it its..lol, a SS3 with a paddle-steamer turbine..lol

I only was game to run it up to 5psi without a afr meter, but its making boost by 2500rpm, super driveable at this stage, pulled up the hills in Drive no worries.

So that was my only worry, and its all good..

Thanks to my mates Dream15 and 4bidn1 for the help!

After changing piping, 2 blow off valves,changing tune and generally f**k arse arounding for a year, i finally put the AFM in the cooler pipe, now its sweet with returning

to idle, should have done it ages ago..

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

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