Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The SS15 high flow would work extremely well, Will be suited between 200~230rwkws region:

I can confirm this, I've got one on my tarmac rally car it's fantastic. Topped out at 220kw@20psi but the boost response is fantastic.

Edited by Komdotkom

I guess we can call the new turbo ATR45.5SAT model. I'm keen to see the result.

The Yellow R34 No.2 didn't go so well unfortunately, and we had to sort out a bunch of little problems with installation as well as getting the car running properly, there is still issues on ECU communicating with the boost solenoid, we run out time and have to finish off the tune another day.

But yes it is very responsive, notice the linear power and torque before 3000RPM:

ss2proottypepower270515.jpg

ss2proottype270515.jpg

2ndly, because I'm now using a JJR's normal front mount cooler kit instead of the return flow. Boost shoot easily over 20psi. I'm sure that 90 degrees bend would be cause of the boost tapper on earlier runs.

But either way, special application turbo for return flow cooled RB25dets are available.

yea this car's the worst out of all, still alot of little stuff to fix, while I've already made the next booking sitting around for 40 mints, next tune is booked 3 weeks away. hopefully all sorted by then.

any ideas why my boost would fluctuate from 15-17 psi back and forth?

changed to a 15psi actuator and this started happening, should i add more or less preload?

previous actuator did not have this issue.

no boost controller installed, running gate pressure

updating some 1JZ results. Those are from 1JZGTE Chasers:

This is 292rwkws on 19psi on our TD06SL205 Turbocharger externally gated, P98 fuel, Unopened engine:

sl2051jz292rwkwp98.jpg

And this is using a high flowed factory CT15B on E85 fuel making 321rwkws.

ct15bhf321rwkwe85.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Little update. The R34's definitely not going as smooth as any of the other cars I've modified. The new car's finally made it self all working today on the dyno. It hits a boost restriction which boost curve went flat at 19psi on 90% ebc duty, how ever the pressure before intercooler is showing a boost curve that kept on clamming all the way up to 24psi.

After setting EBC on 100% duty after 4000RPM, and there is still a 4psi pressure drop. Didn't got up to expectations but definitely better then the 9psi drop that I've had with the return flow kit. Its currently using a 600x300x68mm Takashi cooler, I will be upgrading it to 600x300x100mm and hopefully reduces the percentage of pressure drop.

I have never experienced similar issues on my R33, S14 or the R33-GTR, but to both of my R34s.

That R34 made 425rwkws earlier did not have this issue however, by using a RB26 inlet manifold. I'm unsure if it is related to the actual design of the inlet manifold, if so I might have to make a group of special application turbos just for R34s.

Power stays 267rwkws @ 20psi, basically made no differences apart from lag using a much larger turbo.

power.jpg

Boost curve before cooler (20psi) and after throttle body (24psi) at 100% EBC duty

boost.jpg

Hmmm....interesting. I've got your ATR43 G4 going on my NEO in the next few weeks. Will be interesting to see if I suffer similar issues.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not wrong but 5W30 at 100C is like 10 cSt vs 25 cSt for 10W60. If we think in terms of viscosity margin 10W60 will probably still be ok at 130C but 5W30 is probably too little. It's absolutely shocking how hot the oil gets in something like a stock FL5 from only ~3 minutes of use on the Nordschleife. I would not risk taking a car like that to anything remotely intense without a ton of work done for cooling. Heat shielding on the manifold/turbo/downpipe, oil coolers, etc. 
    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
×
×
  • Create New...