Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 615
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Thanks for the comments guys! :unsure:

We lost the golf today if anyone was interested... It was a knock-about game between mates, two teams of 4 ball ambrose, and the cheating bastards on the other team brought in a ring-in who was playing off 2, and he was on bloody FIRE.

We were playing ahead, and would watch him step up and NAIL the tee shot and land it about 2-7 metres from the pin. He did this for 7-8 holes in a row.... LITERALLY!!! So obviously they then had 7 straight chances at Eagle or Birdie, and with 4 chances at every putt, they didn't miss.

Bloody hell :unsure: 4 under played 9 under (stroke calculation, no handicaps used) :unsure:

Some pics before I hit the turps tonight...

Corsa race seat... Somehow, this thing seems to be getting tighter and tighter as I work on the car. I couldn't possibly be putting on weight, so someone is obviously making the seat smaller!!!

090409_corsa.jpg

I finally installed all electronics and put the dashboard back in!

- Defi gauges,

- Turbosmart eBoost2,

- Apexi Turbo Timer (which is annoying me already, I think I'll rip it out). and

- HKS Kansai ATESSA controller (which I still need to mount nicely on carbon fibre)

There's absolutely NOTHING behind that dash... No aircon piping (which surprising added up to quite a bit of weight), no air con compressor, heater core, pumps.... nothing.... Just white paint and a bare dashboard. The thing still weighs a good 7-8kgs though.... I need to steal Mark's carbon dashboard from this R34 :unsure:

090409_dashboard0.jpg

090409_dashboard1.jpg

090409_dashboard2.jpg

090409_dashboard3.jpg

I thought the HKS controllers were supposed to be a bit rudimentary; have you thought about one of those Ruzic ATTESA controllers the Shirtman is selling?

Tell me more?

I didn't think that these had to be very complicated devices. They plug straight into the G-Sensor and alter the signal going to the ATESSA computer to increase or decrease front drive..... How much more advanced is this Ruzic controller?

do you know if the R32 and R33 Kansai controllers are interchangable? We've got one in the R33 and it's not needed, and I want to put it in my car.

They have different part numbers, but I would be surprised if they were technically/electronically different. Are the plugs on the G-Sensor of the R32/R33 the same?

Corsa race seat... Somehow, this thing seems to be getting tighter and tighter as I work on the car. I couldn't possibly be putting on weight, so someone is obviously making the seat smaller!!!

090409_corsa.jpg

I'll be glad to do the shakedown while you losing the kg's to fit in the seat....lol :D

With the HKS E-TS units you dial in the split and the speed and curve of application is controlled by the standard ATTESA unit. The Ruzic unit changes the lateral G Force signal read by the ATTESA and gives you maps so you can tailor the application, more front earlier, later etc. You can toggle maps whilst driving and data log. Those who have them...installed :D rate them highly.

I also recall a thread on GTRUK where a number of punters had trouble with the HKS units. They don t like being left in 100% then ignition off...4WD lights staying on etc

i think im the only one who thinks you should leave you attessa alone on a 32 gtr

the front lsd conteracts the shit r32 attessa

you bring it on early and the you loose something sadly.. in a r32 the attessa is so shit the standard actuation helps with a front lsd.. speciall with hanging the bum out abit

only thing a good about the controler is forcing more drive to the fornt wheel when your attessa is on the way out

and merli being a anal krumpet will have his transfer rebuild

Edited by fatz
I gotta get up at 5am for a 6:15am tee off tomorrow :)

NOT how I imagined I'd spend my first day of Easter..... :)

But for now............ some more pics!

Buddy Club P1 Racing QF - 7.45 kgs :) :) :)

080425_wheels_1.jpg

080425_wheels_2.jpg

080425_wheels_3.jpg

080425_wheels_4.jpg

You Bastard!!

You truly are after my heart!! haha

i'm going to get them in white 18x10

P.s. pm me your address.. i'll drop my car off tonite ;)

Edited by Angus Smart

Didn't get much done this weekend...

After struggling for 30 minutes, I realised that I can't get the stock rubber intercooler hoses onto the ARC intercooler pipes.

I'll get a hard pipe kit this week and continue...

There isn't much left for me to do at this stage.

I need to install the remote battery isolator, and finish off the intercooler.

Then I have to dust off the wallet and buy the brakes and suspension.

<sigh>

At this stage, I don't think I'll have it done by May 5 :);):)

With the HKS E-TS units you dial in the split and the speed and curve of application is controlled by the standard ATTESA unit. The Ruzic unit changes the lateral G Force signal read by the ATTESA and gives you maps so you can tailor the application, more front earlier, later etc. You can toggle maps whilst driving and data log. Those who have them...installed :) rate them highly.

I also recall a thread on GTRUK where a number of punters had trouble with the HKS units. They don t like being left in 100% then ignition off...4WD lights staying on etc

Just to be clear, I don't have the old HKS ETS units that have been around for donkeys years... I have the HKS Kansai unit.

nengun-0899-00-hkskansai-active_et-s_controller.jpg

You're correct though, it doesn't allow me to choose the curve of signal alteration like the Ruzic one does... It's hard-coded into the unit with the only control being a gain/potentiometer knob...

I'll see how it goes, I would be more convinced by the Ruzic product if I were able to customise the curve, instead of using what are essentially pre-defined curves. How do I know that I wouldn't end up using the same application curve that the HKS Kansai unit gives me?!?!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...