Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 615
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Get some up of your white R33 that we used to play with at the Motoconcepts days... I still love that car!

Yeah definitely still love that car... I wonder where it's hanging out now, or if it's still in one piece? :)

Made gobs of power in it's day... 300rwkw from a GTS-t was unheard of back then!!!

That thing never missed a beat, even with all the thrashings we gave it on the track.

Ahhhh... the memories :woot:

no the whiteline bars are NOT stiffer than the cusco ones even though they are solid and more than double the weight. the cusco ones are lighter, stiffer, better made, come with all the parts needed, and not very expensive. the whiteline ones are ill fitting, cheaply made, and don't always come with all the required bits. and they are damn heavy. simple as that. the only advantage the whiteline ones have is they are adjustable.

Interesting- i've never tested it. Where/how did you test them?

S15 ones fit fine but are very heavy. I have heard of the poor fitment, friend of mine had to send his whiteline bars back for his evo 6 as they hit the chassis and were actually warped.

Get some up of your white R33 that we used to play with at the Motoconcepts days... I still love that car!

I loved that car as well. So much better then your GTR :) I still remember you leaving the Cricketers Arm with a bit of gate off through the countryside. Such a nice car

let me shoot up some pics :woot:

wnos25tfront.jpg

wnos25teng.jpg

wnos25tback.jpg

A GTS-t with GTR badge and wing

:bunny:

goggles.jpg

Yeah tell me about it :banana: :banana:

They were on there when I bought the car... I could live with the wing, but not the badge, so the first thing I did was drive it home and get out the heat gun and steel wire to take off the badge.

Came off nicely, but after removing the leftover glue, I found two holes in the bootlid :(

So I put the badge back on and never got around to getting the holes welded up and repainted...

:(:rofl:

Your last GTR there.

I just found a set of those mags to go my R32. So nice and good offset...just need flaring :banana:

Nice numbers on the Gts-t as well.

Flaring guards is easy, and makes the car look TUFF :banana: Do it!

300rwkw is nothing these days, but back then, it was an eye opener! Most modified GTS-ts were around the 220rwkw mark.

Flaring guards is easy, and makes the car look TUFF :bunny: Do it!

300rwkw is nothing these days, but back then, it was an eye opener! Most modified GTS-ts were around the 220rwkw mark.

I am! :banana:

300 is still a nice round number. Just got to make the fkn thing reliable :banana:

  • 2 weeks later...

Wow Andrew. Sensational. I only came across your thread today and am really liking what you've done so far. Your attention to detail really makes me feel I should've spent a little more time on some aspects of my own 32 build. Seems to make all the difference. I love what you did with the cage and attaching it to the bar under the dash. That's exactly what I should have done to get the front stays closer to the pillers but didn't click untill it was all bent and welded in.

Your thoughts on brake and suspension gear is also very close to what I have planed when required funds become available.

Again, nice work.

Coop

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...