Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

So life has moved on, I no longer have time to do regular track days so I want to pass this car onto an owner who will use it as it was intended.

There's 30 pages here of build tracking with photos galore and I'm sure you can see from the parts list, that this car was built with an open cheque book.

Please email me ([email protected]) if you're looking to buy a track-focused R32 GTR!

Cheers,
Andrew.

  • Replies 615
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

On ‎4‎/‎04‎/‎2009 at 8:51 AM, Merli said:

3. No-one could offer enough money to offset the costs that I've incurred building this thing... I would never get my money back from this car, so I would never sell it until *I* was ready to move on, and it was time to move into another track car such as a Lotus Exige or Porker.

Gotta love the number of replies you made like this, but priorities change.

I have sent you an email re the car. I look forward to hearing back from you soon

Edited by ido09s

Yep, she's been sitting under a cover, in a locked garage for a couple of years now.

I visited my baby yesterday to see if she's still in one piece, and she looks just like the day I last saw her (just with a bit of added dust ;))

 

170116-1.jpg

 

170116-2.jpg

 

170116-3.jpg

 

170116-4.jpg

 

170116-5.jpg

 

170116-6.jpg

 

170116-7.jpg

 

170116-8.jpg

  • 1 month later...

So here's a parts list that Neil helped put together. I added some things that he missed, and I'm sure there's still a whole lot of other mods and improvements done that I can't remember off the top of my head.

Asking $45k for the car. I think this is incredibly priced for the parts alone, let alone the low km 1994 R32 GTR.

It's just had a $2,000 service (fluids changed, mechanicals checked, injectors cleaned, new battery, etc)


Engine
=================================
HKS GT-SS Turbos
ARC Intercooler
Tomei Exhaust Manifolds
Tomei Dump Pipes
Amuse Titanium R1 Exhaust
Tomei Adjustable Cam Gears
Tomei Poncams 260 IN/EX 9.15mm
Tomei 1.2mm Head Gasket
NISMO Air Flow Meters
NISMO 600cc Injectors
NISMO Fuel Pump
NISMO Fuel Pressure Regulator
Tomei Oil Restrictor
JUN Oil Pump
Mines Rocker Cover Baffles
External Head Oil Return
N1 Water Pump
Custom Header Expansion Tank
Hi-Octane Sump Extension and Baffles
PWR 55mm Oil Cooler/Radiator (combined unit)
Spal 16" Electric Radiator Fan
GReddy Oversized Lightened Pulleys
Ross Tuffbond Harmonic Balancer
Gates Racing Timing Belt and Tensioners
R34 GTR NUR Spec Rocker Covers (Genuine)
APEXi Super Intake Filters
GReddy Type-R Blow-off Valve


Drivetrain, Handling and Suspension
=================================
Cusco Carbon Fibre Front Strut Brace
Cusco Brake Master Cylinder Stopper
Custom Braided Clutch Line
Nismo Coppermix Twin Plate Clutch (Comp Spec)
Custom Carbon Fibre Drive Shaft (not fitted)
Bond Rollbars 6-Point Rollcage (CAMS certification documents ready)
Tanabe Pro Coilovers
Cusco -10mm Front Upper Arms
Ikeya Forumla Front Lower Control Arms
Ikeya Forumla Rear Lower Control Arms
Ikeya Formula Traction Rods
Ikeya Formula Tie Rods
Cusco Front and Rear Sway Bars
Cusco Tension Rod Brace
Quaife Front LSD
Tightened & Re-shimmed Rear LSD
4.3 Crown and Pinion Ratios


Brakes and Footwork
=================================
AP Racing CP5555 6Pot Calipers
AP Racing 356mm AP Racing J-Hook Discs (Front)
AP Racing CP5200 4 Pot Calipers
AP Racing 343mm AP Racing J-Hook Discs (Rear)
Ferrodo DS3000 Front and Rear Pads
Hydraulic Handbrake
Buddy Club Gunmetal P1 Racing QF 18x10 +12
Federal 595RS 255/35/18


Electronics
=================================
APEXi Power FC + Commander
Turbosmart eBoost2 Boost Controller
HKS Kansai ET-S ATESSA Controller
Defi Water Temp Gauge
Defi Oil Temp Gauge
Defi Oil Pressure Gauge
Defi Boost Gauge


Accessories
=================================
C's Short Shifter
Nismo GT500 Shift Knob
Nismo Oil Cap
Nismo Radiator Cap


Seating
=================================
Custom Chromoly Seat Rails
Sparco Corsa Racing Seats
Willans Silverstone 6-Point Harness

Contact me at GTR AT ANDREWHO DOT COM if you're interested!

15 hours ago, BunsenBurna said:

Was this driving a few weeks ago?? I think I saw it...and heard it before I saw it!

Quite possibly... I drove it a little to blow out the cobwebs and to move it between garages and workshops.

It's definitely loud ;)

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

It's still for sale, if anyone is interested.

I just don't need to sell it, so it's not top of my priority list. However that said, I would honestly love to see someone take ownership of it and enjoy it!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...