Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just got a phone call from the guys at Boost Magazine, I entered a competition at Compak Attak by subscribing to Boost magazine for a set of Kelford Cams and I won!

Woohoo!!

Details of the cams that are available to me are here..

http://www.camshaftshop.co.nz/index.php/vm...l-products.html

I think I will be going with the 264 with 9.35 lift because the engine only turns to 7300rpm MAX and has stock balancer and a N1 oil pump, or should I go 270's??

So cheers to the guys at Kelford Cams & Boost Magazine, my car is finally going to get some cams. Will do some install pics and before after Dyno Sheets to send back to kelford for feedback.

HL182_A_Camshaft_492bb66580485.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268855-won-a-set-of-cams-for-my-rb30det/
Share on other sites

yeh we have 264 and 272 also...Works well.

Congratulations mate...I bet you feel awesome! Nothing quite like winning shit...especially car stuff and ontop of that real performance car stuff!!! Fark im jealous now!

cheers ppl.

I am going to stick with the 264's. I do not rev this car so the smaller the better.

I was going to race the car this weekend but I will put it on hold untill the cams are in!

I aint sure I even needed the extra power but this is going to be a great test!

how much difference would the 270's to the 264's be

seeing that the lift is the same then it would be just change the revs where the power cuts in. I need the power to cut in as soon as possible.

Unsure if you have modified the inlet yet but with a nice exhaust manifold and inlet manifold mid 260's make their peak power around 7000rpm.

Look at Al's RB30det for example, nice inlet and exhaust mani with baby 256 cams but that too also holds well to 8000rpm and with some absolutely ripping mid range.

Mine with 265's idles baby smooth but if slightly leaned out on idle it will start to cam over 'slightly'. So tune it slightly lean on idle and then enable the o2 to pull it in when you want it to idle smooth. :D

Mine went from ~14degree's on 17psi to ~20-21degree's at peak power and made an extra ~30rwkw on pump.

Went from nosing over after it made peak power at 6000rpm to holding power flat for an extra almost 1500rpm, when tweaked with gears peak power is up 500rpm and still holds just as well with no loss in power to 7500rpm (my limiter is also at 7300rpm as Im still running the factory balancer)

The ramp rate on my 265's are a little more aggressive that the grind you will be getting

Mine have 227.9 degree's at 1mm vs 216degree's at 1mm for yours so mine run a ramp rate similar to their 270degree grind.

hrmm.. In stating that I'd almost be inclined to run the 270's. ;)

Edited by TheRogue

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...