Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 121
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

As in, on the street, you're not likely to see boost, unless you wind it up in 2 - 3 gears first.

however you are most likely to find small birds in your engine bay..

we really need pics of you naked to help...

:P

have you ever driven a turbo car? since your NA and all...

and i believe a fence post jumped out in front of you before, well even with a standard turbo that fence post will be lodged in your front bar allot quicker.

sorry to be harsh, but you have to think logically, best option as someone else said neo turbo motor dropped in and leave it and learn to drive it.

Edited by 32_Dave

Frank answer... yes that turbo will do the job, you already know that tho, you can look up the rating on a turbo anywhere,

Is your engine at that turbo a good package to use to do the job? No, its dumb, nothing personal, no "your a girl and dont know better" just from one skyline owner to another.

Using an NA package and converting it to turbo and then going for big power is really just an exercise in spending. anythings possible if you spend enough on it.

BUT, it wont be reliable.

Better compromise, get a 25det neo engine and drop that in, use that as a base, you'll still have issues and spend lots, but you might spend a little less in the long run.

If, like climbing a mountain, your doing it "cos i can" then dont ask... just do it... spend the cash, the time and live with the results. you'll get your power for some period of time.... then you'll do something else.

Now think, other that "Huzzah!!! i gots powah!!!" what are you really hoping to acheive?

I agree with what everyone is saying, I think you should look at dropping in a neo turbo engine to begin with. I think the power level your chasing from the get go is unreasonable, not because its unacheivable but because there are so many things to factor into the build rather than "Im building a show car and I want this much power" There are plenty of insane cars out there running less power than this, plenty of show cars out there running less power than this and it seems that all your chasing is the "aw factor".

Also try to do some research on cars that use the t51r, I believe the godzilla motorsports 32 GTR runs the t51r SPL, research some 34 GTT's that are making good power. You will get more satisfaction from a gt2835 or hi flow on the street than you will t51r.

If I was in your position, building a fast streeter id be going hi mount 35 series turbo, but thats just me.

If I was in your position, building a fast streeter id be going hi mount 35 series turbo, but thats just me.

She's not building a streeter, she's building a show pony. Nothing more, nothing less.

Oh, and MISSR34 did you ever find your missing KWs that your knock sensors were supposedly hiding... With your PFC and all that doesn't do anythign with the knock reading other then flash a light...

See, we'll let that be lesson one for all the boys here.

She WON'T listen to you, no matter what you tell her. Supposedly knock sensors caused her to be majorly down on power, whilst she ran a PFC... Oh, and she argued black and blue they were the fault... :ninja:

Since your engine builder has suggested that turbo - use it. If you dont have faith in your engine builder - go somewhere else and use whatever turbo they suggest. If you dont follow your engine builders advice they have an out if there's a problem, and there's more likely to be a problem as other stuff like headwork, cams etc will be selected to work well together. Throwing a random, potentially missmatched piece of kit into the mix is not a good approach.

knock sensors deff can make you down on power, if the tuner is using them, and backs the tune off early...

dont bother with a neo motror, you'll need a full rebuild for 500rwkw either way, so why spend the extra coin on bits you'll be replacing anyway

did you make a thread like 2-3 weeks ago about making your N/A supercharged?

Oh yeah, i remember her, i read that whole thread then it disappeared and I wondered what happened,,,all i can say is the determination she is showing far outweighs her rational thinking. Sure, if you got the money to spend and have absolutely NOTHING better to spend your money on,, then go ahead, good luck and godspeed

You should really add what you want to know about the T51R. From your post you aren't worried about spool etc, so thats good as there won't be much - and you want >500kw which is what a T51R will do fine as well.

What is it you DO need to know about it? It might help you get some more constructive responses - especially if you give some input on what your intended engine build spec is, you are still using the 25 block? Fully forged etc? What fuel will you be dyno queening on?

ill be going RB25 top end with RB30 bottom end to help with torque.

yes it will be fully forged and ill be having custom cams made up aswell (the cost the same as buying ones of the shelf).

ill most likely to be using Martini Racing Fuel for dyno comps

if ive found the right information, the Garrett GT4594R is basically the same as the HKS T51R, so ill be going with the Garrett one. I just thought maybe some people on here have used that turbo, or know some more information about it? just in a general sense really.

i have my list of everything that i need to get (im always adding to it as i go tho). But cause i pretty much know SFA about turbos, and im willing to admit it, id just like a little help, but like you said i prob should have made it a bit clearer to begin with.

do you have a boyfriend?

what does he say about your endevours for a 500kw car??

cos i'd be seriously pissed if my girlfriend wanted to waste that much money on a car for a few minutes of fun on a dyno at a car show, cos honestly, it seems that a car with over 300rwkw on the road is pretty useless and to only really use the power on a dyno or on a track really wouldnt be worth the money.

try fooling around in bed, much more fun than sitting in a car on a dyno pulling over 500kw

just my two cents

unlike yourself, id get more satisfaction sitting in a 500rwkw Skyline than what a guy could ever do for me :D and no, im not a lesbian.

and no, i dont have a boyfriend. and if i did, its love me, love my car or get F***d.!

Throwing a random, potentially missmatched piece of kit into the mix is not a good approach.

agreed - a proper plan which is based around the 500kw u want is a good idea,

as apposed to just chucking expensive parts together willie-nillie which has the potential to leave you out of pocket, and unsatisfied..

you need to get laid.

:D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...