Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i use a bf xr6 turbo 6 spd auto ute to tow now, tows much better than my old fg xr6 sedan used to, much more stable plus much more room for tools, lunch, fuels, etc would go a ute anyday!

Get a wagon, even better!

Be warned, a manual is not certified to tow that much weight... no doubt it is just a warranty thing for people that abuse their clutch/gearbox, and has nothing to do with what it can actually handle as far as stability and stopping goes.

But if the worst happens, you don't want your insurance company going 'oh, sorry, your car is clearly only allowed to tow 1200 kg (or what ever it is), no payout for you'

Insurance companies can be assholes, I know a guy that ended up with a huge bill when his old shit box got hit by another car - and it was deemed his fault cause his backyard paint job was deemed to be the issue - not as easy to see as the original glossy paint apparently.

You don't want to give them any outs.

Edited by samstain

Caravan Trade and Industries Association of Queensland in conjunction with RACQ publish a comprehensive Vehicle Towing Mass Guide based on manufacturers' specifications:

Holden Commodore VU VY V8 s / ss Utility man / auto 12/2000-08/2004 500kg unbraked 1600kg braked #1 Load level hitch req'd over 750kgs. #9 Owner's handbook MUST be referred to for additional vehicle fittings when towing.

The only Commodores rated to tow 2100kg in that model are the auto sedan, wagon (ex VY factory LPG Wagon) and one tonner, and even then it has this condition:

#8 Max 80km/h over 1600kg.

Commodores and Falcons are simply not a great choice for a tow car.

  • 1 month later...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/400054-fs-2001-nissan-cima-vip-45-v8-23500/?hl=cima#entry6890924

Nissan Cima?

Any thoughts ?

V8 luxo barge much better daily than a 4wd obviously less economical than a diesel for long trips but occasional towing it might be a goer?

Edited by noone

I'm not sure if towing stuff is legal in Japan? So domestic models may not have manufacturer tow ratings. If they are rated at all, it's fair to say they unlikely to be any better than the local Falcon/Commodores which are rated to 80km/h max over 1600kg with load levelling kits and stuff.

Edited by hrd-hr30

So not a D22, mine sucked for towing, even when almost brand new. I had my WRX (early shape) on a light weight trailer for and all up load of about 1900kg, and it couldn't maintain 80kp/h into a slight headwind, and going up hills was even worse, I took it to Nissan, and they gave it a clean bill of health, it got run on a dyno and the figures that it made where line ball with the stated outputs for the engine as well.

Y61 Patrol 4.5 litre petrol big girl,,,she tows like a gem,,,.

Not like the crappy falcon wagon swaying/wobbling box of shit we killed. It did last 4 years but was a pathetic tow vehicle under load. I couldn't ever sleep while the boss women was at the wheel,,,not that she can't drive,,,I just didn't trust the car.

Sure the Patrol chews the juice but is as stable as and accelerates up most hills,,,we tow about 2000k usually (car and trailer).

Admittedly she not our daily driver,,,so fuel is not an issue and we will buy the 4.8 litre one when this girl has run her course.

Nissan all the way.

Cheers

Neil.

I have a 2007 chevy 2500hd 4x4 with a Duramax with all kinds of upgrades for sale here in the US if interested? It'll tow anything you'll give it. Shipping might be costly though.... Just throwing it out there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...