Jump to content
SAU Community

The Truth Is Out - Adm Vs Jdm At The Dyno

09GTR

By 09GTR,
in R35 GTR

 Share

Recommended Posts

09GTR Collaborator

09GTR

Posted
Posted

I have dynoed my 09 GTR ADM - its putting out 295.5 kilowatts at all four wheels.

The Jap Spec car on the same dyno (at Croydon Racing Developments) put out 310 kw

Why the difference?

Because the ADM is running 12 psi boost, the JDM (stock) is running 15 psi!

That is why Jap cars are recording 0 - 100 in 3.3 seconds

My HKS 570 kit will be installed in a week. I look forward to bringing you the numbers...

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

ashneel Grand Master

ashneel

Posted
Posted

hmmm only 14.5kw difference? thats nots too bad.

also this your car? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4615239

will be interesting to see the gains after the kit is installed.

rehab2010 Proficient

rehab2010

Posted
Posted

Why would Nissan Oz do this - we have same quality fuel in Oz now, and there is simply no excuses to de-tune our cars. I call BS.

PS: 14.5kW is not little, its a fair ammount. Is it possible that 08 model had higher boost, compared to 09 ADM's.

LSX-438 Mentor

LSX-438

Posted
Posted

Well 14.5kw is about 4.5% - i've seen that sort of variation merely due to weather in some cars. I dont think it's that much really. Still, if the boost is clearly down, that is black and white i guess. thanks for posting the results, much appreciated! :)

Martin HKS Enthusiast

Martin HKS

Posted
Posted
My HKS 570 kit will be installed in a week. I look forward to bringing you the numbers...

Why didn't you go with the HKS GT600 kit? Are you doing the rest of the Exhaust as well?

Cheers

Marty

09GTR Collaborator

09GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Why didn't you go with the HKS GT600 kit? Are you doing the rest of the Exhaust as well?

Cheers

Marty

kit availability, price etc. The 570 kit is a pretty bare minimum mod. One could look to turbos, coolers, brakes, suspension etc down the track. I will use a Cobb custom tune as well. Not that keen to fork out the big bucks for a rear exhaust yet...will see what gains the 570 system makes without the rear system (plus don't need the extra noise), and then decide.

I reckon the 570 plus cobb tune without the rear exhaust will be a nice mod that unleashes the potential of the car without being too crazy.

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted

A little off topic here but I have a question for the R35 GTR owners... How do the R35 GTR's compare to the earlier model GTR's as far as being a drivers car goes?

One of the best driving experiences in a GTR ive had was in a lightly tuned R32, the balance and response of the car and how easy it was to control once the car was pushed beyond the traction limit of the tyres was inspirational. Pushing it past understeer into power oversteer balancing throttle and steering etc. My R34 comes very close and will hopefully be as good as if not better with a few alterations I am working on.

I recently saw the new Jeremey Clarkson film called Thriller, and he doesnt like the GTR at all. He tends to lean to ferrari and the lambo's, but I cant help but think he just isnt a good enough driver to push the limits of the R35 GTR. They didnt show him geting the car sideways once on that film.

So I was wondering, how does the R35 GTR feel when pushed to the limits of traction and beyond?

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

the 35 is every bit a drivers car. you just have to understand it has much higher limits than most and drive accordingly. turn off all TC/ESP and enjoy. It's very easy to slide and great to balance and steer it on the throttle. You can hold nice long, high speed slides in it and even pluck gears mid-slide without un-balancing the car. sure on road you don't get much sense of it as you can't sanely drive i fast enough to get it moving around, so in that respect on road you could argue a honda DC2 type R is more of a drivers car, or a 2 litre 1984 alfa GTV, BUT get the 35 on the track where you can exploit it's strenghs and it's character comes out. you just have to squeeze it a bit. :action-smiley-069: steering is very comunicative, the engine is super responsive and the chassis does what you ask of it, with good pads and rotors the brakes are great too. it has all the boxes ticked really for a good driving experiece. and i'm a hack and I still find them easy to slide around. just ask russ! lol.

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted
the 35 is every bit a drivers car. you just have to understand it has much higher limits than most and drive accordingly. turn off all TC/ESP and enjoy. It's very easy to slide and great to balance and steer it on the throttle. You can hold nice long, high speed slides in it and even pluck gears mid-slide without un-balancing the car. sure on road you don't get much sense of it as you can't sanely drive i fast enough to get it moving around, so in that respect on road you could argue a honda DC2 type R is more of a drivers car, or a 2 litre 1984 alfa GTV, BUT get the 35 on the track where you can exploit it's strenghs and it's character comes out. you just have to squeeze it a bit. :) steering is very comunicative, the engine is super responsive and the chassis does what you ask of it, with good pads and rotors the brakes are great too. it has all the boxes ticked really for a good driving experiece. and i'm a hack and I still find them easy to slide around. just ask russ! lol.

My old 2l. Alfetta GTV gets a mention in this company??? Woot!

Pity my exhaust manifold had a sneaky habit of unscrewing from the block!

Pity the rubber Uni joints would crack every 30xxxKm

Pity my Alfa Romeo Umbrella would form abrasion holes after what ....10 outings??? wtf lol

I had my car 'Endrust' treated the day after I bought it = No rust when I sold it lol

THIS CAR TAUGHT ME THE ART OF PERSEVERENCE! ;)

sh@un Grand Master

sh@un

Posted
Posted
I would have expected more than 14.5kw difference for 3 psi boost.

why? if the turbo's are already at the limit of their compressor efficiency (highly likely given Nissan obviously wanted the target power with the lowest transient response times possible), winding in 25% more boost isn't going to add 25% more power due to the fact the tiny wheels just rapidly start heating the air (and lowering the charge density) instead.

Guys...one thing to remember...every engine is hand built, you will get "strong" engines and also "weaker" ones. the 14.5kw is nothing.

i really doubt it- given the quality control and ultra-high accuracy of the tolerances, i'd be surprised if you saw factory-spec VR38's running outside of + or - 5hp at the fly when tested under identical engine-dyno conditions

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted (edited)

I agree with Shawn. The whole point of hand assembly in climate controlled rooms is to achieve a high degree of repetition in tolerances. When something measures up out of spec it goes into the rubish bin as a rejected component.

Now if it was australia that was making the R35 you wouldnt want an engine that was built on a monday or a friday. Hopefully that wont apply to the R35 being built in japan.

And thanks Beer Baron, I suspected Nissan had just raised the bar with the R35. Clarkson probably wasnt game to push the car to ITS limits because of the neck injury he got when test driving the R35 in Japan.

Edited by GTRNUR
Snowman Grand Master

Snowman

Posted
Posted

Well on the weekend at the ATC held in Vic there were 2 dead stock ADM R35 GT-R's that when both used LC in Auto R/R/R over an 800m drag on the Holden Proving Ground Speed Bowl were nearly 1s different in times. Each car had 4 runs and all 4 runs for each car were basically exactly the same time BUT the 2 cars were around 1s different (and around a 10km/hr terminal speed difference). Car 1 did it in around 18.2s with top speed of 250km/hr and the 2nd car was 18.9s and 142km/hr.

So not all R35's are created equal even when comparing ADM v ADM let alone ADM v JDM.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...