Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 10 years later...

if you've got plans for reasonably high power its worth going the 1000.. the 750hp damper is a 5.5" model so for me the recommended rebuild schedule make the 1000hp model a more attractive proposition for an engine making reasonable power.

 you need an ECU that will turn off the air conditioning clutch above a certain rpm as its 25% overdriven so you don't kill it.

rebuild information from ATI's manual: http://www.atiracing.com/instructions/Super-Damper.pdf

 

Recommended Maintenance Schedules For street and drag race motors and dampers greater than 5.5":

up to 800 HP: damper should be rebuilt every 10 years

Above 800 HP, Blown or Nitrous racing:  damper should be rebuilt annually

Circle Track / Endurance: dampers should be rebuilt during each engine rebuild

 

For 5.5" dampers:

400 HP rebuild every 5 years •

400-600 HP rebuild every 2 to 3 years •

600+ HP rebuild every year

Edited by burn4005
35 minutes ago, burn4005 said:

 you need an ECU that will turn off the air conditioning clutch above a certain rpm as its 25% overdriven so you don't kill it.

Out of interest, what RPM does everyone set theirs to? I can't actually recall ever finding out what the factory setting is and subtracting 25% from it. Need to set it up on mine properly, currently rely on the 'don't get on it with the ac on' method

  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/4/2019 at 1:06 PM, burn4005 said:

For 5.5" dampers:

400 HP rebuild every 5 years •

400-600 HP rebuild every 2 to 3 years •

600+ HP rebuild every year

How crucial is this rebuild schedule though and how hard/expensive is it to do? Surely people aren't rebuilding their balancers if they drive the car on weekends etc

On 04/09/2019 at 9:45 PM, Murray_Calavera said:

Mine is at, 4500rpm or 75% tps with 4 second reactivation time

I'm also curious what others are running and why they chose those settings. 

Mine's about the same, but I've popped in about 3 degrees extra timing into the zero throttle demand table.

It still is always about to stall on engagement, I think the IACV (even with an additional 15% base DC) may be a bit slow to react to the sudden changes OR my AC compressor is cactus, because there's a massive strain each time it comes on.

This thread has a bit more recent info on both Ross and ATI, there are tuners using both, namely PMC race engines use ATI, and CRD (croydon racing dev. in sydney) use Ross

Ross have recently re-designed (Rel. Jul 2019) their balancers to have an integrated crank trigger which also allows them to have a larger dampening surface for their balancers.  Their base model is now rated to 800hp, up from 600 i believe.  I have their older base metal jacket version installed on my 300kw RB26, i believe correct installation per application is important to the longevity of these balancers.

ATI's are USA made and can be rebuilt by anyone with a modular cartridge, and Ross are made in Aus and will need to be sent back to their base in VIC to be rebuilt.

 

 

On 9/19/2019 at 9:39 AM, iruvyouskyrine said:

How crucial is this rebuild schedule though and how hard/expensive is it to do? Surely people aren't rebuilding their balancers if they drive the car on weekends etc

The elastomer o'rings should be replaced every 10 years if its mainly street.

If you are in the states it only costs $75 to overhaul and re-certify SFI .

I'm not so just bought an overhaul kit (~$35) and did it myself.

Fairly basic job, cleanliness and care with orings during assembly is all that is required . Blue loctite on bolts and correct torque.

  • Like 2
On 9/23/2019 at 8:31 AM, iruvyouskyrine said:

Yeah car will be 90% street at around 300-350kw so a rebuild every 2 years seem excessive. Have you got a link to rebuild instructions? 

https://www.chevyhardcore.com/news/rebuilding-atis-super-damper-is-super-economical/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This looks great! Awesome to have the 5 speed with an LSD in this. The Recaro's look like SR2's or SR3's. It's a shame they've been retrimmed as they would have looked sweet in their original colours. I think I'd want my agent to be a little more up front and informative too. I've never imported but I reckon it would make me a little nervous, so the more info the better.
    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
×
×
  • Create New...