Jump to content
SAU Community

180sx Vh45

farch

By farch,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 302
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Chrispy
Chrispy

Good stuff! I'm digging those UAS engine mounts, I might change mine to those too... And a Pulsar brake booster might fit. You're running close with the clutch master too Have fun making the ext

Aggroman
Aggroman

I like how u say we, when its really just sean

XRATED
XRATED

wonder how steady that person will be after consuming all the beer/rum/jack supplied 'in kind' while fitting :-)

Posted Images

  • 3 weeks later...
farch Collaborator

farch

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Dude get this on the ground already so we can go cruising like in the old days and hold up traffic for ages hahaha

it's been on the road.......for a month and a half before clutch problems. I'm up for another bogan cruise if you are. bring on the mullets wigs!

If you're thinking of selling them...

i don't need'em, wouldn't you have a set on the r33 already anyway. aren't r33 gts-t's pretty much the same as non v-spec r32 gtrs?

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

it's been on the road.......for a month and a half before clutch problems. I'm up for another bogan cruise if you are. bring on the mullets wigs!

i don't need'em, wouldn't you have a set on the r33 already anyway. aren't r33 gts-t's pretty much the same as non v-spec r32 gtrs?

Oh hmm... I should look into that factor...

I was shown the other day some nice 8 pots that a member uses on here for racing with... able to purchase the full kit for $1,500 brand new...

I'm keeping my eyes on it, and might buy it very shortly...

farch Collaborator

farch

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So cool. Its a shame we cant have these like the yanks do... TT VH45DE :worship:

they are, when i was doing the research in to it for 450sx i found that the maximum boost-able engine size is just over 4.5 ltrs for a s13. i believe it's 60 cc within the range. these figures were calculated using the weight of 1140kg stated as the factory weight times the factor of 4.82 for na and 4.0 for boosted. from the following link. the ADR limits are slightly different.

so the maximum turbo or supercharged engine in a 180sx can be 4560cc and 5494cc for naturally aspirated.

so imagine the engine that will able to go in a 1500kg skyline.

http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/downloads/vsi/vsi_06_-_guidelines_for_light_vehicle_modifications_nov_2007.pdf

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

they are, when i was doing the research in to it for 450sx i found that the maximum boost-able engine size is just over 4.5 ltrs for a s13. i believe it's 60 cc within the range. these figures were calculated using the weight of 1140kg stated as the factory weight times the factor of 4.82 for na and 4.0 for boosted. from the following link. the ADR limits are slightly different.

so the maximum turbo or supercharged engine in a 180sx can be 4560cc and 5494cc for naturally aspirated.

so imagine the engine that will able to go in a 1500kg skyline.

http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/downloads/vsi/vsi_06_-_guidelines_for_light_vehicle_modifications_nov_2007.pdf

I think you'll find you're using the wrong value aren't you? Aren't you meant to be using the bottom one? 5.46 and 4.68 for N/A and Turbo respectively? Isn't mono constructed like those one off builds/kit cars?

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted (edited)

i don't need'em, wouldn't you have a set on the r33 already anyway. aren't r33 gts-t's pretty much the same as non v-spec r32 gtrs?

they are basically identical imo, 300mm vs 298mm rotors and the same calipers or something like that, nothing in it.

Edited by Rolls
farch Collaborator

farch

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I think you'll find you're using the wrong value aren't you? Aren't you meant to be using the bottom one? 5.46 and 4.68 for N/A and Turbo respectively? Isn't mono constructed like those one off builds/kit cars?

mono constructed is the modern way to make car chassis, it's dual constructed if its body can detach from the rails, like model t ford. unless your making a hot rod? at least i think that's what they mean.

  • 2 weeks later...
akaaa7 Enthusiast

akaaa7

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey dude quick question, what spigot bush did u use for the 300zx box conversion? did the new one need any machining to fit in the 45 crank? also wherew did u get those UAS engine mounts? nice car man 190kw with headers mad shit

Edited by akaaa7
GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted

You make it sound so easy lol.

Wish it was so easy! I knocked it out with a cold chisel from memory, you could also mig weld a metal bar to it and lever it off...

I like welding stuff! :thumbsup:

Get that damn car on the road Farch!!

And, nismo used to sell side skirts for your 180! they look good as I saw on today.

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

If the spigot bush has a hole drilled the whole way through it, you can try the old trick of filling the bush with heavy duty grease, and then hammer a steal bar that is machined to fit perfectly into it. The grease makes a perfect seal, and it can't be compressed, so it pushes the bush out.

That's if the bush is hollow the whole way through. If not... Too bad, so sad. :P

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

Don't know if it's been mentioned, but torn up paper poked into the hole (newspaper works great), then punched (same principle as grease method) in with a hammer & punch works very well. Then you just flick out a mashed up wad of compressed paper fiber.

Clearances need to be very close for grease method to work, otherwise it just pumps out around the punch; much less important with torn up paper.

Amazing build BTW; love the execution.

farch Collaborator

farch

Posted
  • Author
Posted

about 7 months ago i hit up ross tuffbond to make a custom balancer and was told it would take 6 weeks, the six week came i rang up and was told haven't had time. I gave up, and completely forgot about it, thinking it was never going to happen. well i got a call last week and this was apparently just finished!

post-38774-0-49979500-1310713393_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted

Well we got the gearbox back together finally.

And the new intake setup is sorted too. We found that the BMC filter setup was too restrictive for the engine, so that got the boot and a replacement was found.

That involved going to autobahn and ordering the biggest k&n filter we could get our hands on with a 90mm outlet.

Then massaging (hammer :whistling::) ) the engine bay to fit the mammoth filter, which also required the 90mm airflow meter to be chopped.

All fitted sweet in the end and the car now goes even better. Farch will explain his test drive later....

The 20cent coin in the second pic gives you an idea how big this thing is!!

post-12712-0-19192500-1312109292_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-64981700-1312109301_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...