Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone got an old 2nd hand Samwage plate out of a GTR gearbox for sale????

Don't do it man!

I don't understand this mentality. The one thing that is holding it all together is made out of this thin bit of alloy. May aswell put a dinner plate with holes in there.

Mine cost me about $900 delivered to my door through greenline.

If it saves you another box out and in its worth it!!!

Looks like PPG are going to sponsor me and give me parts at a discounted price, which is better than paying full price, got the results from the crack testing and all the other gears and dog rings are fine.. just waiting to hear back from the engineering shop that are trying to straighten my lower lay shaft. fingers crossed haha

What about the stronger 3rd gear? Any word on that?

Third is completely destroyed, im up for 2 new gears there, The funny thing is when the box broke I was 100% into the gear and it was just Horse power that sheared those teeth off the gears.

Great to share a tent with you guys @ Jambo.. Pity about the box issues.

Good to hear PPG is helping you get the gearbox sorted, can't wait to see how far you can take it with your current setup.

Only time will tell if HKS GTR makes an appearance to keep you on your toes.. till then good luck with the car.

Noy

Third is completely destroyed, im up for 2 new gears there, The funny thing is when the box broke I was 100% into the gear and it was just Horse power that sheared those teeth off the gears.

Could have been fatigue from the action of shifting; full power in third could have been the straw that broke the camels back.

Could have been fatigue from the action of shifting; full power in third could have been the straw that broke the camels back.

Could have definately well been that reason too, flat shifting at 1000HP doesnt really do any gearbox justice, but thats why I got ignition cut and certain parameters that reduce the amount of shock loading on the teeth.

Could have definately well been that reason too, flat shifting at 1000HP doesnt really do any gearbox justice, but thats why I got ignition cut and certain parameters that reduce the amount of shock loading on the teeth.

After the $$$ spent worth considering a Holinger? Or sequential of sorts.

After the $$$ spent worth considering a Holinger? Or sequential of sorts.

definately not a holinger, or a sequential, cost way to much money. They are weaker than Straight cut dog box, because they are helical cut dog engagment,

but yes the next option would be a liberty, but at the moment I want to keep it like a streeter for a bit longer haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...