Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Need tyres first

My car is setup for

17/45/245

Have Hancooks on at the moment road noise is shocking

Looking at New Bridgstone Potenza

or

Yokohama's

Urgh the road noise I have is horrible!!! Stupid P plate bogans putting some crap called 'Triangle' tyres on a new car >.< Literally you need to raise your voice while you're driving.

Need to do more burn outs and chuck some Michelins on them!

I have my setup sorted out at the moment.

Stock turbo's I have atm kick in at 3300

-5 will kick in at approx 3600-3800

Adding more low end punch with adjustable cam gears and getting it tuned for a bit more pick up in the lower end range.

Rest is good for what I want which is 300kw at the moment. But have the parts there if I want to chase more later.

My car setup is more for Tarmac rally than track I don't want punch from a stand still I want a powerful mid band to rev out to redline, the way I drive the spur with what I have I am sitting at 4000rpm through the spur keeping power up as the car only has 180kw currently and I can keep up with you guys as it is :yes:

As my driving style is to sit in the mid range having the -5 spooling or near ready as I come onto power out of corner increases corner exit speed and provides a lovely 4 wheel power slide/drift.

And yes all handling aspects and braking have already been done and bedded in before adding power to get the car setup right from day one.

The guys at RE haven't steered me wrong yet and the car has been getting better and better as we work through legacy age part replacement, and upgrades where required. My car will look like nothing has changed when they have finished. :D

No Tarmac rally GTR owner is running 370rwkw+ mate. :)

-5s don't kick in @ 3600-3800 either. Yes they start making boost/power there but in reality they don't come on until after 4,000 and it's very noticeable if you've had -9s beforehand as i have.

Don't forget you are seeing a loaded up dyno run, in 4th gear - then ye they come on @ 3,800rpm. I'll check tonight if i get a chance but I think 3rd is around 4200-4400 and even 3rd is 150km/h.

Just because you are sitting @ 4,000rpm doesn't mean you'll instantly be on boost either.

Smaller turbos will come back on boost sooner @ any given RPM. That's just physics.

Each to their own. If i had my day again I'd go back to -9s for street/circuit/tarmac. The extra lag simply isn't worth the power.

On a side note - What ill do if you want is get my car and a mates out, and you can sit in the passenger seat if you want and see for yourself?

Most of my mates with GTR's have -9s on at the moment, so wouldnt be too hard to find someone

On a side note - What ill do if you want is get my car and a mates out, and you can sit in the passenger seat if you want and see for yourself?

Most of my mates with GTR's have -9s on at the moment, so wouldnt be too hard to find someone

Grant! oh wait.. :P

He was running 300rwkw I think though - had good reponse.

Grant! oh wait.. :P

He was running 300rwkw I think though - had good reponse.

Haha...

Kinda tempted to rape my credit card for pair of these on my new replacment.

Yep 302.8rwkw @ 18.6 psi, which is very nice for street compared to -5s.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...