Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've made really lame ones and had heaps of likes.

Exhibit A: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Dear-Summer-Youre-doing-it-wrong-Sincerely-Melbourne/174293695938785?ref=ts

Edited by jezza boii

I had a group that had like 900 people. Keep in mind that I made 898 accounts and joined the group.

It was the "join this group if you think Mohsen is gay" group, wasn't it?

Reasonable. But most people I know have their pretty stock r34 gtt coupes insured for 20k.

Even my sedan was insured for $20K.

But that's the beauty of having full comp and not relying on someone else's insurance to cover damage to your car.

Edited by llama_au

Technically it's more economical to fill up in small amounts though. I do about 3 lots of $30 top-ups a week. Probably does shit all but I'll do anything to make my car faster :P

I drive every day and my car costs me about $15 per week on 98octane. Mad?

Edited by llama_au

L4D 2 Lags like shit, how do i reduce latency? I've tried portforwarding and its brought down my lag but its still 300+

wonder what the housemates are downloading...

Depends on the host also. Could be some guy from the other side of the world. Or could be your housemates down / uploading porn.

OR your connection could just be shit.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
×
×
  • Create New...