Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks very muchly. What's a new chra worth if worst comes to worst

That I'm not sure about, but the JB CHRA will have the longer life span if anything.

Nothing to worry about.

Wait what!

You changed your mind again?!

No, no.

Before my budget crisis I had a PT 5558 on order. Shit happened and I ended up selling my 6boobs etc and went factory low mount with the SS1PU.

Nothing has changed, motor is mostly assembled (turbo attached now). Just need a new sump pan (mines rooted), rear main seal and ancillary water hoses then I'm bolting it in. Have taken a few pretty photos so once I get closer to results time I will make a thread of some sort. I prefer to lay low when I can and preserve identity but I do want to share the SS1PU SR experience.

I know there have been some failures in the past, but im sure thats old news.

In general JB's have a longer lifespan than BB's and are overall not as delicate.

The main thing I dont like about the PT BBs is that they arent water cooled. IMHO BB's should always be water cooled, too delicate to not.

water cooling is to take heat away from the turbo, which is oil lubricated and cooled also. remembering the turbo gets hundred of degrees going through the back side which is bolted directly to the CHRA you want to get as much heat away from the rotating assembly as possible.

Admittedly I do not follow the supra forums and PJ you already know I've never used a JB PT. Dunno whats to be proven here, but you guys win already.

I did plenty of reading myself when I was going to buy one and found plenty of posts like this saying 'get the BB' but hardly anyone actually having one fail in the past 3 years - I could be ignorant and not reading the right places so who knows. I'll just keep my mouth shut in future, no use trying to help people and share what you think you know when others are only going to shoot you down.

Yay ball bearing party, lets all dance and clap.

Theres been heaps of failures in last 3 yrs...people have been reporting them as being worse as far as i can see

The GFC may have forced there quality control to be not as good as it was...

people aren't shooting you down..no need for knicker nottage..lol, its just you said " you are sure its old news"...i mean

you can't be sure at all? i'd never ever ever buy one, now or in the last 10 yrs

cheers

darren

Isn't water cooling only for the cool down after engine shut down? If you have a turbo timer or let your car idle after a drive then I'm sure it'll be fine

after many discussions with my turbo guy, that was my understanding also...

Be interesting to see how these oil only Precisions last,, should be fine if shut down correctly..

I like the V-Band turbo/manifold idea too, should take care of any gasket issues. watching this thread with interest

Edited by tricstar

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...