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Chris, post 55! The first type is the one I have, but it's overkill for wheel nuts, more for engine building. I just picked it up cheap.

For wheel nuts just pick up a spring type one, they reset automatically between use so are more convenient as well as cheaper.

Also post 20 made me lol

Actually torque wrenching wheel nut for me is quite funny,,,I only actually torque Duncan's up to appease him,,,I'm that bloody good I can do them up to 110 newtons with just a breaker bar. Test me one day,,,you will be shocked. Maybe in hindsight I should have tighten his wheels nuts at targa years ago and he wouldn't have lost the left front wheel.

But I digress,,,the 'Snap On" left handed drill/extractor kit is the ducks guts. I pin punched the 1st bolt and started drilling,,,it came out before ever breaking the surface. The 2nd bolt took a little longer and no need for the extractor. This is indeed a cool tool.

post-29-1290675987_thumb.jpg

post-29-1290676001_thumb.jpg

Cheers

Neil.

been doing alot of wiring lately so these 3 new tools have been the ultimate in making it go fast and neat.

left : Narva non insulated connector crimpers

centre: Kincrome insulated wire crimpers

right : kincrome automatic wire strippers

worth their weight in gold

post-5157-1290830439_thumb.jpg

Lots of tool sales on yesterday.

Picked up myself a 3 piece Irwin Vice Grip set, 5 piece Irwin Pliers set, Stanley FatMax saw and a Toolex 8 piece T-Handle Hex kit. No idea if I need any of them but the prices were too good to knock back.

Was considering a Cordless Impact Wrench but couldn't decide between the Dewalt or Hitachi and can get them off Ebay for the same price any day of the week so walked out with none ;)

Ben....we need to know before the sale, not after!

Neil.....

portable-ac.jpg

also, speaking of torque wrenches I bought these the other day....1/4" and 3/8". Will still use the 1/2" beam style for important stuff like motors.

torque-wrenches.jpg

It's a real shame that no one imports Craftsman tools here in Oz. Craftsman is Sears & Robuck brand in the US. They've always made good quality spanners and sockets at really competitive rates. I've still got a lot of my sets from when I lived in the states 10 years ago. When I go back next year I plan to bring back a fair bit.

Just noticed Bunnings has some craftsman tools on the shelf now, and of course they can special order anything from a brand they carry, and will price match as well. Oh, and for legal reasons I should disclose that I may work at Bunnings haha :thanks:

[Edit]

I should add that this is what we had on the shelf - These deserve a mention in the cool tools thread; ratcheting elbow spanners - Would be great to undo bolts where you have no room to swing a spanner, or even a ratcheting spanner. The elbow allows you to undo bolts by pushing and pulling the spanner; genius idea.

The Image is here http://images.bizrate.com/resize?sq=500&uid=1609186795 - Image tags won't work for me on this fancy newlook forum

  • 2 weeks later...

Arthur did you break any glass removing it? my last attempt was 2 broken from 6 so I never tried again. cheaper to get a windscreen bloke out to do it :(

Picked up one of these at supercheap today because no decent shop was open. $120 and looks pretty good surprisingly.

engine-stand.jpg

yeah for sure. in fact I can't think of many motors longer and heavier than a complete rb26. but this has reasonable design, box sections and bolts. better than I expect from supercheap

Arthur did you break any glass removing it? my last attempt was 2 broken from 6 so I never tried again. cheaper to get a windscreen bloke out to do it :(

I've only done one and i didnt break it..

It does take some patience to make sure you have cut all the goo away before you start pushing on the screen..

But the tool only cost me 35$ from a windscreen warehouse. Its a pretty basic tool, you could probably make one easy enough..

I got the grinder onto the blade to make sure it was real sharp and you have to keep cleaning the goo off it..

Actually torque wrenching wheel nut for me is quite funny,,,I only actually torque Duncan's up to appease him,,,I'm that bloody good I can do them up to 110 newtons with just a breaker bar. Test me one day,,,you will be shocked. Maybe in hindsight I should have tighten his wheels nuts at targa years ago and he wouldn't have lost the left front wheel.

Cheers

Neil.

oh lawd!

  • 3 weeks later...

Rofl,,,you stick to the scissors mate,,,I'm over cutting radiator hoses and the like with them. I'm into nice and neat hoses. My old adage is "If you can't go quick look good".

Moving on,,,heres 2 of my 1/4 drive sockets sets.

post-29-1278415762_thumb.jpg

This one is one I bought,,,it's a Kokon set ,,,Japanese brand,,,not rubbish which I'm liking. If I had the money I would buy all their products.

post-29-1278415778_thumb.jpg

This one is Kinchrome which was nicely donated to me by Duncan,,,still not quite sure why,,,maybe all my losed blood over the years. It's a great set as well being AF and Metric which suits me.

Cheers

Neil.

Where did you get that koken socket set out of interest? I have heard good things about them here and there, but can't find where to buy them

  • 2 weeks later...

Love this thread... been meaning to put something up.

Changed my brake rotors, brake lines, brake fluid a few weeks ago... these came in handy.

$10 - bleeder kit.

And I was a few jack stands short so a few bricks took care of that.

post-74159-0-68551700-1296692730_thumb.jpg

post-74159-0-69892500-1296692740_thumb.jpg

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This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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