Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My favourite tool for a couple of years even if I don't use it that often. I feel so powerful holding it:

Sidchrome 1/2" 750mm long Breaker Bar

14948%20product.jpg

Think I got it for $80-90 including delivery. Probably got a receipt somewhere. My new favourites are gonna be ratchet spanners/wrenches when I get my own set. Been using a mate's and it is fantastic. Now I can't live without em.

attachicon.gifSump plug kit pic inside.jpg

For $30 at Supercheap can't go wrong. PS: the Teng one is on backorder, they have run out of stock. So sick of ruining 1/2 ratchet ends :)

What are Teng tools like? Always see them here and there for sale but never played with one. Are they decent? Somewhere in the vicinity of Kinchrome/Sidchrome quality?

Saw some crow foot spanners with their name on it a while back and thought I might ask here.

A simple little purpose built tool I made to Compress the piston in my R31 Rear Calipers.

(needs to be pushed in and turned, Clockwise for Passenger and Ant-Clockwise for Drivers side)

2 Sparkplug spanners and a bolt.

post-78856-0-75865500-1389484221_thumb.jpg

fits in here.

post-78856-0-49135600-1389484219_thumb.jpg

Works a Treat. :D

A simple little purpose built tool I made to Compress the piston in my R31 Rear Calipers.

(needs to be pushed in and turned, Clockwise for Passenger and Ant-Clockwise for Drivers side)

2 Sparkplug spanners and a bolt.

attachicon.gifDIY R31 Rear Brake Tool.JPG

fits in here.

attachicon.gifR31 S3 Rear Brakes.JPG

Works a Treat. :D

Love it, but what's the chances you'll loose it before having to change rear pads again! ;)

  • 3 weeks later...

Can anyone suggest a good rivnuet tool/tool set.

Keep in mind I'm a wanker and like to have trade quality tools ready for me to use only once a year...

Was looking at something like this http://www.memfast.co.uk/shop/Vprod1.asp?cat=2258004632 -thoughts?

Can anyone suggest a good rivnuet tool/tool set.

Keep in mind I'm a wanker and like to have trade quality tools ready for me to use only once a year...

Was looking at something like this http://www.memfast.co.uk/shop/Vprod1.asp?cat=2258004632 -thoughts?

This one looks like a damn good set; and it has both alloy & steel nutserts. I use these inserts on everything now I have them.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/214-PC-BLIND-RIVET-NUT-RIVNUT-NUTSERT-TOOL-KIT-M3-TO-M8-/120760789836?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1de76b4c&_uhb=1

!C!O7TBwEWk~$(KGrHqQOKiwEzTEGN,lvBNCJr9L

everywhere man, they are the coolest of the cool tools. basically they insert a knurled nut into sheet metal so you can fix a bolt into it. mostly m6 ones for holding race car stuff in place, although I wouldn't trust them for anything serious.

I'm looking for one too...but would prefer the type shorter type with handles that turn rather than the style Dale posted which require a lot of clearance to use. One like this: http://www.wurth.co.uk/hand-tools/riveting/rivet-nut-tools/ratchet-rivetnut-gun-kit, or possibly the one rob posted, I've never seen/used that style

btw very interested in this option too...anyone used this style? I like the price, small size, and don't care it might be slow when it's not used that often.....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rivnut-Rivetnut-Nutsert-Fitting-tool-M4-M5-M6-Kit-car-rivet-nut-special-insert-/171218249071?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item27dd67256f

  • Like 1

everywhere man, they are the coolest of the cool tools. basically they insert a knurled nut into sheet metal so you can fix a bolt into it. mostly m6 ones for holding race car stuff in place, although I wouldn't trust them for anything serious.

I'm looking for one too...but would prefer the type shorter type with handles that turn rather than the style Dale posted which require a lot of clearance to use. One like this: http://www.wurth.co.uk/hand-tools/riveting/rivet-nut-tools/ratchet-rivetnut-gun-kit, or possibly the one rob posted, I've never seen/used that style

That Wurth kit looks good -their tools are generally quality too

btw very interested in this option too...anyone used this style? I like the price, small size, and don't care it might be slow when it's not used that often.....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rivnut-Rivetnut-Nutsert-Fitting-tool-M4-M5-M6-Kit-car-rivet-nut-special-insert-/171218249071?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item27dd67256f

I have one of these ones Duncan; as long as you lube the screw and ramps it works great, & will last fine for home use.

You can use it in very tight spots, which is why I ended up with it. :yes:

everywhere man, they are the coolest of the cool tools. basically they insert a knurled nut into sheet metal so you can fix a bolt into it. mostly m6 ones for holding race car stuff in place, although I wouldn't trust them for anything serious.

I'm looking for one too...but would prefer the type shorter type with handles that turn rather than the style Dale posted which require a lot of clearance to use. One like this: http://www.wurth.co.uk/hand-tools/riveting/rivet-nut-tools/ratchet-rivetnut-gun-kit, or possibly the one rob posted, I've never seen/used that style

Like when you want to dodgy up a not so closed off 'cold air' box with aluminium? Or maybe I should stop being lazy and do some welding.

But on a serious note, this looks very interesting! Like maybe fitting undertrays and the works on your track cars?

Nutserts are awesome.

I use them on fibreglass shelled Lotus' and Radicals often, but use the deeper inserts with a washer on the back face (before being pulled), this stops the nut pulling through the fibreglass with time.

The Wurth stuff is expensive, but they do work well and are reliable.

NK7

If you have a working undertray, nutserts will not do, they'll pull through easily. A decent undertray will create well over 100kg of downforce and require mounting to decent chassis/subframe supports to reduce flex.

These are great for mounting stuff to sheetmetal, like boot mounted surge tanks and firewall mounted hose supports.

Mark :)

  • Like 2

NK7

If you have a working undertray, nutserts will not do, they'll pull through easily. A decent undertray will create well over 100kg of downforce and require mounting to decent chassis/subframe supports to reduce flex.

These are great for mounting stuff to sheetmetal, like boot mounted surge tanks and firewall mounted hose supports.

Mark :)

Ahh I see... so after a while they can wiggle loose? But still sounds great. And not overly expensive and reuseable!

Ahh I see... so after a while they can wiggle loose? But still sounds great. And not overly expensive and reuseable!

Heya NK7,

They won't wiggle loose if done correctly, but they're not designed to take big loads. I guess the specs would tell you different, but when you've got 100kg+ trying to rip the splitter off at speed and ripple strips slamming into the front corners under cornering, I'd prefer to use something a little more substantial (nut/bolt to chassis rails).

They're a great tool to have around and your mechanical will love working on the car with less ninja self tappers through firewalls and floorpans! Those farkers will tear you open at every chance they get...

Mark :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 spots that my exhaust guy joined the 2 pipes together  Made a big difference. I'm now able to live with it. I can make it louder if I want by removing the HKS caps.
    • Hi all, considering clutch upgrade to support 1130 engine hp from 1650cc injectors on e50 at 85% duty cycle (1650 x (11.85/14.7) x 85%). Narrows down to these three as they can be converted to use gm 26 spline input shaft if I ever want to use transmission with that input shaft (orc1000f and r3c easy/cheap just change center hub; tr2cd pricier must change clutch discs). Pricing orc1000f similar to tr2cd, r3c about usd 200 pricier. Orc1000f triple plate 200mm. Tr2cd twin plate 215mm. R3c triple plate 215mm. Claimed max torque : orc 1000f 723 lbs ft; tr2cd 800 lbs ft; r3c 1100 lbs ft. Why orc1000f triple plate but claims lower max torque vs tr2cd twins? Is orc1000f underrated? Any info maxing out these clutches? Info on street/traffic driveability/pedal feel? Thank you for any info on them.
    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
×
×
  • Create New...