Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finally able to start my build thread - things are progressing quickly! Have been threatening to set my R32 GTR up for tarmac rally since 2008 - and a knocking engine was the push I needed to get started. Went and did Targa tas with a mate in 2008 and the bug bit hard. Anyone that has built up a car knows the never ending list of shite you need so planning and funding began.

First a little history - I imported this 89 R32 GTR in September of 2004. It was an R grade car due to a hit in the rear drivers side which had been repaired pretty well - otherwise was in outstanding condition all around - nothing out of place, completely stock - it was very clean. Kept it pretty standard minus exhaust and some pod filters. Have done all servicing myself and get Racepace to do anything beyond my tools and expertise.

post-12551-1278835486_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1278835495_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1278835524_thumb.jpg

The aspiration - shot taken by my girlfriend in our support vehicle out of Queenstown on the western loop. Tassie has the some of the most amazing roads.

post-12551-1278835657_thumb.jpg

While I was away in Tas I left the car in the capable hands of the Racepace with some gtss's, power fc and a few other odds and ends. Returned to a very nice 290 odd rwkw. Drove this around for a few years, decided to get it ready for some track work as I didn't want to drive it on the roads anymore. Was just going to see what I got out of the standard motor and wait for an excuse for a full build, so completely overhauled the suspension subframe off all bushes replaced, adjustable arms, sway bars, some tein coilovers to replace the tired stockies, and an alcon brake kit from John @ UAS.

post-12551-1278836694_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1278836209_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1278836244_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1278836313_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1278836342_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1278836639_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1278836660_thumb.jpg

Gathering parts. Tomei oil pump.

post-12551-1278837126_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1278837149_thumb.jpg

New longnose crank

post-12551-1278837173_thumb.jpg

Sweet sweet pwr crossflow radiator with oil cooler in end tank.

post-12551-1278837226_thumb.jpg

Next up the stripping begins. Racepace pulled the engine and I grabbed the shell back to start all the painful stuff.

post-12551-1278837320_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1278837343_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1278837077_thumb.jpg

Rest of the hicas was removed, p/s pump bridged with p/s cooler hopefully will stop p/s fluid everywhere on shakedowns at the track - will see otherwise a cooler core will go in. Cleaning all the grease and road poo everwhere on everything. Can be pretty overwhelming at times but a proper clean will be worth it in the end - at least for the build completion shots - then start covering it with muck again :thumbsup:

post-12551-1278837499_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1278837663_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1278837708_thumb.jpg

The dry icing begins. Make sure you use a good esky picking this stuff up - I put it in a cheap bunnings tub which proceed to shatter - didnt loose too much but yeah - its farking cold. As with eveyone else 1-2 hours to get 95% of the stuff off and out, then another 10 and counting hours to get all the goo etc off - but it must be done properly.

post-12551-1278837729_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1278837976_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1278837996_thumb.jpg

The stuff they used on the welch plug type things in the floor plan is the bain of my existence at the moment - bought 4 types of citrus cleaners today and have been working at it. Still need a little more dry ice for the remaining deadening pads.

post-12551-1278838535_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1278838569_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1278838589_thumb.jpg

Unfortunately when I first had the car I didn't have a garage. Frying aussie summer sun has perished a lot of the seals etc, seats have faded which was all perfect when I first got it. It also had a bit of a water leak into the drivers footwell which I could never track down. After stripping everything down I found this big rust patch below the clutch pedal - car is off to the cage shop either Meridian or Brown Davis next, then the panel shop to get the rust sorted and some paint for the interior and engine bay. Not sure if I will stick with the gun grey to make it easy and cheap, or go for something fresh like white.

post-12551-1278838608_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1278835598_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328473-pauls-r32-gtr-track-build/
Share on other sites

Bloody goo - and I am convinced 1989 seam sealer technology is literally the spawn of the devil himself - chisel chisel chisel, fark, chisel, chisel, chisel. Not sure how Merli got his cleaned up in 10 hours - i would be closer to 20.

post-12551-1279160811_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1279160831_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1279160857_thumb.jpg

Off to Meridian later today for a cage, going to take it past micolour first so they can see the rust - make sure its not a bad idea getting the cage in first (Meridian have a slot for me now).

Roy - see photos below. Dimensions are perfect (no engine yet though!) but it fouls on that small lip in the third pic - you see the gap on the top down shot. Just going to bend it a little and should be good. I have the drawing if you want it - pm me an email address and I can send it to you.

post-12551-1279160886_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1279160904_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1279160971_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1279160997_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1279161009_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1279163362_thumb.jpg

Highly jealous of your build. I'll be watching this thread with lots of interest as you have or will be doing a lot of things i'll be doing in the future.

Cheers - its been a long time coming but worth the wait to have the pennies to do it properly.

In other news... more tar... awesome.

post-12551-1279193164_thumb.jpg

looks awesome mate. :D

can you tell me (pm if you like) what the full F+R brake kit set you back and what size rotors etc, and what you think of it? they look very nice. should stop beautifully. :D

looks awesome mate. :D

can you tell me (pm if you like) what the full F+R brake kit set you back and what size rotors etc, and what you think of it? they look very nice. should stop beautifully. :D

You have pm. Yeah they stop really well time and time again - can easily out brake the crappy t1r's I have on there - will be able to give them a good test once I have some real semis.

Cheers.

After my little surprise of all that tar under the parcel shelf I was up early to pick up a car trailer and some more dry ice. Luckily the tar was in really good nic I could tell it was going to come straight off with the dry ice - which it did.

Loaded up and made the journey to Meridian. Good chat with Brenton and Andrew about cages and the rest of the prep - had a look at some of the work going through there at the moment and it's mint - amazing TIG work from Andrew. They are going to take care of most of the rust around the areas they will be working and Micolour the rest.

Things have really ramped up today, both with things moving along and allocated budget :D I was originally going to just get the interior sprayed, but there is some surface rust around the windows on the outside, so its just not worth mucking around. I am basically having the car reset the car back to factory condition - might choose a different colour though have to work that out. Michael @ Micolour will be doing the whole car once Meridian is finished. Inside outside and engine bay - and anyone that gets him to work on their cars will know the immaculate result to expect. Took the car round and had a good chat with him and a look through his awesome workshop and at some of his mint work.

Very excited but nervous about this, as much as I will want to wrap it in plastic and hide it away - I can't let it get in the way of getting out and enjoying the car once finished. Might have to organise a decent photo shoot to savour the memories with in the event I put a scratch on it...

post-12551-1279268377_thumb.jpg

Ready for some surgery.

post-12551-1279269131_thumb.jpg

it's everywhere!! And if you start pulling off the external body sealer, you'll find the only thing it does it seal rust in. So it's worth removing all you can, and treating the rust.

Indeed. I found some rather nice holes in the joint between the rear guards and the valence. Remove it, prep it and paint it.

Dropped in at Meridian this afternoon. Cage is looking rather good :down: - check out that tig work. Andrew said he needed to mig the cage to the body at the boxes as it's much more forgiving working with older weathered metal.

post-12551-1279698262_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1279698272_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1279698282_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1279698291_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1279698308_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1279698320_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1279698327_thumb.jpg

Cage looks mint! Interesting the diagonals in the main hoop all merge at the one point. Some are happy to do it, some seem to avod it, i assume because the section that is a single piece becomes too heat affected by all the welding in close proximity

Yeah not sure - they will be putting the extra bits on like the rear cross so should help.

No doubt I will be testing it for durability with my head many times before it ever sees any action.

  • 2 weeks later...

Cage is finished and I couldn't have hoped for a better job. Now for Mike to work his magic - hopefully a little less stressful than working on R31's.

Having major withdrawals from not being able to drive this thing... these car's are an addiction.

post-12551-1280397779_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1280397790_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1280397799_thumb.jpg

Andrew has nicely sorted the rust in the floor - bloody rust!

post-12551-1280397808_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1280397829_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1280397837_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1280397849_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...