Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cheers Tim hopefully ill never need it!

Yep bracket is for mounting a trip computer - will need to build another bracket off it once I settle on a unit. May end up with a camera attached there as well.

The drivers seat bracket is set up for an aftermarket rail kit meridian have supplied. Bit worried about it actually itching to get a seat in and test with my helmet on make sure I have enough room. I am 6'2 but my girlfriend will be doing some driving as well hence the rails - she is 5'4 and struggled for height driving the car with the standard seat.

Worse comes to worst ill just loose the rails so only I can drive the car :P

ahh I've got the same challenge with my seat. the bride rails are about as low as you can get, but the cross in the cage on the roof will impact helmet room. I had to stick with only 1 diagonal on the roof for that reason

  • 4 weeks later...
ahh I've got the same challenge with my seat. the bride rails are about as low as you can get, but the cross in the cage on the roof will impact helmet room. I had to stick with only 1 diagonal on the roof for that reason

Did a test fit up of the drivers seat with the mounting bracket and my helmet on.

Bad news is the mounting bracket isn't quite right - just a tad off center with the steering wheel to the window side. Meridian are going to make a few tweaks to get it sitting where I want it, and by raising the front a little will give my girlfriend a bit of extra height when the seat is slid forward.

Good news is I fit! The double diagonal cross in the roof is well out of the way my head sits up in the void perfectly. With the seat a little off center I am very close to the other bar but once the new bracket is in it will be spot on.

post-12551-1285233461_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1285233484_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Old motor big end bearings from cyl 6 on left, good cyl 5 on right. Had been driving on these for a good six months... somehow they didn't spin. Chris reckons the old crank should be ok - barely any scoring on the cyl 6 journal. Thinking I might send the old crank and block off to get cleaned up and machined and have a go at putting a basic motor together for shits and giggles.

post-12551-1286275418_thumb.jpg

New motor is almost ready to go.

post-12551-1286275606_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Mick found this little surprise on the rear drivers quarter under the sideskirt.

Previous repair from its life back in Japan was a little shonky wasn't really sealed up properly there is rust pretty much all over it. Not worth repairing so a new quarter has been ordered from nissan.

post-12551-1288788384_thumb.jpg

Otherwise not much. Have ordered a new brake booster & master cyl, cluctch master cyl and a few other bits that are past it.

bummer i would have just repaired it cheaper than a qtr pnl I would think. good luck man!

Would love to have but the same panel is rusted through at the seam around the boot jamb, rear windscreen, drivers door jamb and the wheel well - this was the last straw!

There are also a few other spots that are starting to show a little but we won't be able to see the extent until it comes off.

  • 3 months later...

Awesome build man love that cage! I've got a 32GTR build on the go at the moment too but nowhere near as nice as this! I really should get off my bum and start a buildup thread but im waiting to have a new shed built soI haven't done much to it lately. Oh well these things take time. Your right though i live in Tas and there are some truly inspiring roads over here. Keep the updates coming especially the Paint Job. ;)

  • 1 month later...

Shell is up on the rotisserie now. Not the prettiest thing from underneath at the moment.

post-12551-0-18579000-1303170240_thumb.jpg post-12551-0-33256900-1303170245_thumb.jpg

Also gut stuck into cleaning the front subframe. Before shot only but needless to say it is now looking a lot nicer.

post-12551-0-73090200-1303170251_thumb.jpg

Picked up some Racepace modified Tein RA's

post-12551-0-43644600-1303170887_thumb.jpg

Midori 76mm dumps and 76mm into 90mm front pipes. Will get Racepace to sort out the rest of the exhaust.

post-12551-0-06889300-1303170907_thumb.jpg post-12551-0-27864900-1303170916_thumb.jpg post-12551-0-75263400-1303170946_thumb.jpg post-12551-0-45707000-1303170958_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...