Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 111
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Surprise to most of us (that it was N.C.), but you're...

Absolutely Correct! :) > and he even had a podium finish!

Why is it a surprise to anyone? If you think about the 92 race the "winner" had three wheels left on it & the third placed car (Crompton & his sadly departed co driver - go look it up) were closing down the # 17 Sierra hand over fist.

Basically had the race not been red flagged he would have won. Coulda woulda shoulda...........

The R32 GTR’s 0-60mph time was only 6.2 seconds. However a couple of simple modifications would boost the power and speed to a blistering 4.6 seconds.

Umm, wtf? From factory the car can do 0-100km/h in sub 5 seconds with the factory boost restrictor in place... My previous gts-t could do 0-100 in 6.5 completly stock and you are saying the GTR could only go 0.3secs faster???

Nissan produced 100 Australian models of the R32.

No they didn't, they imported them, they did NOT 'produce' them.

The R32 GTR is the lightest of all the GTR models.

Lighter than the 1969 PGC-10.... I don't think so!

Surprise to most of us (that it was N.C.), but you're...

Absolutely Correct! :D > and he even had a podium finish!

What Colour was exclusive to the Nissan Skyline R-32 GTR V-Spec I?

Did you know that there were:

~Standard Cars = 40,390

~NISMO Group A Evolution = 560

~V-Spec = 1,453

~V-Spec II = 1,303

~N1 Race Version = 228

~43,930 in total produced of the 32 gtr

~Originally only 510 were suppose to be made to be within the rules of Japans Group A racing but demade was so stong that they released the model for unlimited production. Hence the 560 for the Nismo Group A total.

~The N1 doesn't have abs, air conditioning, sound system, rear wiper, trunk carpet, and the use of light-weight headlights and were only produced with a crystal white paint.

~The V-spec models have brembo brakes, a retuned attesa system to the N1 and nismo options and they weigh 50kg more than the standard gtrs. The V-spec II also had 17" rims

~Production of the Gtr started out in May 22, 1989

~The first Gtr was produced in February 4, 1969 know as PGC10.

This is an awesome thread and should be sticky'd as well. Also the first link doesn't work OHY34H

Aus delivered R32GTR's had some things and different stuff, such as:

260KM dash

no speed limiter?

small rubber aerial on the roof near the rear windscreen

tail light wiring setup was different and indicators at the back were orange lens

20mm wider front seats

transfercase oil cooler and electric pump

number plate bracket wider and rear bar number plate recess wider to fit aus plates

side intrusion bars.

Thats all I can remember, there is probably more.

Also from around 1992 for JDM models headlights were a little different to earlier ones (parker light diffuser removed), side intrusion bars became standard and thats part of the reason why later GTR's were heavier than the 1989-1991 GTR's.

Does anyone know the answer to this??

I think he maybe talking about the N1 model instead of the V-spec as they were produced only in a Crystal White paint job which was exclusive to the N1.

I could be wrong but lol

Edited by 32vspec2gtr
Umm, wtf? From factory the car can do 0-100km/h in sub 5 seconds with the factory boost restrictor in place... My previous gts-t could do 0-100 in 6.5 completly stock and you are saying the GTR could only go 0.3secs faster???
No they didn't, they imported them, they did NOT 'produce' them.

As quoted by GTRSean:

Aus delivered R32GTR's had some things and different stuff, such as:

260KM dash

no speed limiter?

small rubber aerial on the roof near the rear windscreen

tail light wiring setup was different and indicators at the back were orange lens

20mm wider front seats

transfercase oil cooler and electric pump

number plate bracket wider and rear bar number plate recess wider to fit aus plates

side intrusion bars.

Lighter than the 1969 PGC-10.... I don't think so!

Didn't count pre-R32 models.

Here's another:

"Did you know that the R32 GTR sits the lowest" (again only comparing R33, R34, R35).

I've got 2 to add.....

did you know Kerry Packer ordered 2 GTRs in wine red, and had them both modified by Fred Gibson before taking delivery (I hate to think what that cost).

also....

Nissan Australia sold just over 100 cars....but imported 200. The rest were sent back to japan in 1994 because they could not be sold here at any price. No wonder it took until 2009 for Nissan to sell another GTR

I've got 2 to add.....

did you know Kerry Packer ordered 2 GTRs in wine red, and had them both modified by Fred Gibson before taking delivery (I hate to think what that cost).

also....

Nissan Australia sold just over 100 cars....but imported 200. The rest were sent back to japan in 1994 because they could not be sold here at any price. No wonder it took until 2009 for Nissan to sell another GTR

I suppose they could've run up 90'000 odd k's on them and sold em for roughly 20 grand LOL.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...