Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thought I would share the progress of my 32 GTST I purchased March last year

this is what it looked like on day 1 of ownership. Stock as a rock apart from a FMIC

dirty1.jpg

dirty2.jpg

and then gave it a good cut and polish

CLEAN1.jpg

First week I had the car I went to town on it on ordering some new things to make it reliable

Pic0101001.jpg

06042009004.jpg

04042009002.jpg

all hose clamps for water, fluid and fuel hoses

all water hoses

all pwr steering fluid hoses

all fuel hoses

rocker cover seals

040 fuel pump

removal of hicus crap

putting a full brg set through the gearbox

cleaned everything up

2-1.jpg

found a cactus brg on the mainshaft in my gearbox which is a common cause for skyline rollover noise

DSC04251.jpg

DSC04322.jpg

So once that was all done I purchased some 32R rims

DSC04574.jpg

gave the GT badges a polish

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/20v...03052009002.jpg

installed a 3" bellmouth dump pipe and 45V1 R33 Turbo

jjrmilddumpfrontrb-01.jpg

then replaced a the front end bushes and installed some new K sport coilovers

ducatidesmocediciandbaylissRR002.jpg

which lowered it somewhat

DSC05372.jpg

engine bay is now all clean as well as the air con system at the front of the car

DSC05376.jpg

next bit was to put in a new 3" mandrel bend system

DSC05432.jpg

and then a nistune done by sean at allstar garage

dyno.jpg

stripped out my boot

cleanboot.jpg

then I got real, pissed off the 32R rims and went for some buddy clubs

IMG_5007.jpg

more to come!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329420-r32-gtst-project/
Share on other sites

then it was time for a new windscreen and front and rear rubbers

Picture007.jpg

Picture004.jpg

then put in new gearboots

IMG_6976.jpg

then one of these under the dash

beer.jpg

IMG_6882-1.jpg

IMG_7118.jpg

new bigger battery and clamps

IMG_7239.jpg

new pads (ebc redstuff) which I have not fitted yet

IMG_7355.jpg

dba 4000 slotted rear rotors

IMG_7357.jpg

and I have these on order (324mm gtr front upgrade on 4000 dba rotors)

skylinestage1brakekit.jpg

also not mentioned yet is I put in a rear 32R sway bar and RB20 diff from an auto for the shorter ratio

see if I can work this out

Rims & Tyres -$1100

Brakes - $1500

Fuel Pump - $240

ksport Coilovers and nolathane bushes $1900

nistune - $950

Gearbox rebuilt $500

Gearboots $30 odd

bee*R $300

Mandrel steel Exhaust $450

Seals, Hoses, clamps ect.. about $400 from memory

Turbo $300

Dump pipe $200

GTR rear Sway bar $20 (CHEAP CHEAP)

Rear auto diff $150

Strut brace for the rear $80

Tint $60 and seals $50 (mate of mine does windscreens & tint ect)

Dry ice sound deadner removal was about $150.. Dry ice isnt cheap!

Thats as much as I can think of, All the new stuff is below trade price too.. glad I didnt pay retail for any of it

duno if I wana add all that up LOL, would be almost 9K i rekn

im building a 25 for it next year, still pretty keen to spend more money.

Edited by BANGN

f**king gorgeous .... wish mine would look like this ... ( the Bee*R rev limiter) what do u use it for? ive seen them applied (ignition cut) with all the backfire which is awesome but .. what are they used for? launching?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...