Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 176
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

250km/h for 10 minutes?

start work @ 3 in the morning?

I call BS.

for conversation's sake, a red hot exhaust is fairly normal. I've seen manifolds, turbine housings and dump pipes glow red, but if its anywhere further down the exhaust than that, then you have some serious heat, and a glowing exhaust is the LEAST of your problems...

seems only 1 person knows wot there talking about here, where did i say i was doing 250km/h(someone else said that) 3in the morning: yea i work in a mine u dork. my work is 120km away from my home, all straight with 1 S bend at 112km away from home. and ONLY the manifold was glowing red hot, where did i say the turbo and housing was glowing red hot. you should learn to read and stop being such a wanker. but ur bs still dont explain why its missing and farting. So stop trolling this tread if you dont know wtf your talking about

Edited by innocentdemon

If you're fair dinkum mate, I'd say this;

1. The glowing manifolds is pretty standard after a long hard run, especially visible in the dark. You probably wouldn't really notice them glowing in full daylight.

2. The missing and farting is likely going to be your coil packs failing. As they get old and when they get really hot they tend to open circuit and cause missfiring. If you haven't already done so, removing the cover (covering the coil packs) between the cam covers can alleviate the problem, or at least buy you some time (taking the cover off the coils lets the heat out).

If you're fair dinkum mate, I'd say this;

1. The glowing manifolds is pretty standard after a long hard run, especially visible in the dark. You probably wouldn't really notice them glowing in full daylight.

2. The missing and farting is likely going to be your coil packs failing. As they get old and when they get really hot they tend to open circuit and cause missfiring. If you haven't already done so, removing the cover (covering the coil packs) between the cam covers can alleviate the problem, or at least buy you some time (taking the cover off the coils lets the heat out).

thx.

since its a jap import alot of shops turn me away. would you know of a website i could purchase them from at a reasonable price.

seems only 1 person knows wot there talking about here, where did i say i was doing 250km/h

in your first post you said you were at 6k rpms in fifth gear. in an R32 and R33 the final drive in 4.11:1 and 5th gear is .75:1. at 6k rpms thats 250kmh so STFU. you said yourself, I just repeated it. If you were in an R34, 5th gear is 1:1 ratio so you'd only be going 205kmh, so keep talking about who said what.

LOL @ OP. Snap at people for putting you in your place. Everyone here knows what they are talking about, you're actually the only one who doesn't hence you posted a question :down:

in your first post you said you were at 6k rpms in fifth gear. in an R32 and R33 the final drive in 4.11:1 and 5th gear is .75:1. at 6k rpms thats 250kmh so STFU. you said yourself, I just repeated it. If you were in an R34, 5th gear is 1:1 ratio so you'd only be going 205kmh, so keep talking about who said what.

no you stupid dic i said i was doin 6k revs yes i didnt say the speed, and gear ratio to speed dont mean shit if ur goin up hill and also dont mean shit if your car has done over 400k kms and is a pos, and yes my clutch is a bit worn, and no i dont have a fcken speedo to tell wot speed i was doing, is why i said the revs and not the speed. typical aussie arogant bastards is all you are. i hope you serve to miss a cat and hit a tree. and yes i asked a question. thats wot forums are for you stupid fck. maybe you didnt relise this.

BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

For future reference (don't know why I'm helping you to understand, because you really are an arrogant shithead), unless your clutch is slipping something bad...engine RPM and gear ratio are 100% relative to vehicle speed. In a manual, this will not change whether you are going uphill, downhill or sitting on flat road. In an auto the torque converter will alter engine RPM a little but not enough for 6000 friggen RPM in 5th gear. And if that's the case, you have bigger things to worry about than a red hot exhaust manifold lol. Either that or you have an 8:1 diff ratio LOL...

I'm crying with laughter here.

And last i checked he isn't a typical aussie due to the fact he doesnt live in australia... hmmm.. Typical bogan thinking the internet is resricted to australia only..

this thread is completely full of win.. you're a douche.. you dont know shit and you bag out those who do.. go up a hill.. you slow down.. and so does the revs..

And last i checked he isn't a typical aussie due to the fact he doesnt live in australia... hmmm.. Typical bogan thinking the internet is resricted to australia only..

this thread is completely full of win.. you're a douche.. you dont know shit and you bag out those who do.. go up a hill.. you slow down.. and so does the revs..

oh and the first smartarse guy who answered wasnt a aussie? i asked a question, i get stupid answers, my question was serious. i see how you guys treat other ppl.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...