Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think the point is, 3 pages of nothing but walls of text and marketing talk. When it was as simple as saying something like this:

"The 9810 turbo failed, we don't yet know why as to the cause. We will use something else for now"

Rather than dancing around the issue, avoiding the questions & laying the foundations for an elaborate story etc etc. All that does is make it sound like there is more going - and now posts are getting edited (does it get better? I'm scared to leave the keyboard incase the next installment is even better :merli:)

Part failed, part failed. Shit happens. You get another and hope it don't happen again.

I've had a near new GT30 fail, not been scared to say that. Similar issues to ole mate Noel i would say as well :D

whose to say if the house brick was hit by the moon module or if perhaps your house brick actually jumped off the floor and hit the module as it was minding it's own business mid-hover in your living room? I think your warranty will be paid but only in 3 dollar bills as per your original purchase.

Just another example of how big business never believes the poor consumer. My brick was totally innocent of your outrageous allegation.

bot. If the turbs failed it failed, regardless of curcumstance. I've been around long enough to know these things happen and I certainly wouldnt judge the product on a couple of early problems.

Time will bear out wether the product is as good as Borg Warners hype. I hope it is. Garret have had it their own way for far too long.

bot. If the turbs failed it failed, regardless of curcumstance. I've been around long enough to know these things happen and I certainly wouldnt judge the product on a couple of early problems.

Time will bear out wether the product is as good as Borg Warners hype. I hope it is. Garret have had it their own way for far too long.

couldn't agree more. i am just as anxious as the rest to see how it goes. from what I've seen it looks positive. hopefully when we get back to testing one on marks car it will do what we want. nothing really to do but see what happens. I'll leave it at that.

I think the point is, 3 pages of nothing but walls of text and marketing talk. When it was as simple as saying something like this:

"The 9810 turbo failed, we don't yet know why as to the cause. We will use something else for now"

Rather than dancing around the issue, avoiding the questions & laying the foundations for an elaborate story etc etc. All that does is make it sound like there is more going - and now posts are getting edited (does it get better? I'm scared to leave the keyboard incase the next installment is even better :merli:)

Part failed, part failed. Shit happens. You get another and hope it don't happen again.

I've had a near new GT30 fail, not been scared to say that. Similar issues to ole mate Noel i would say as well :D

More to this point, the fact it came out that the turbo failed in the first place and was NOT discussed is why theres so much hoo haa right now.

Even right now we are still discussing the matter in grey text, further adding fuel to the fire for anyone without the capacity to see beyond face value and further defacing the 'slow built' reputation of this product and its sponsors.

Had the cat not been let out of the bag, that is a totally different kettle of fish. Now its known that the thing died and to any 2 digit IQ baring reader they will certainly see a conspiracy brewing.

Eh, c'mon.. Just say it already, damage is done.

Shittest pictures in history, but you get that.

Had Dales (d_stirls) brother machine this up for me;

IMG_4375.jpg

IMG_4376.jpg

IMG_4377.jpg

Perfect copy, just in super pretty alloy. Nipple has been offset slightly for various reasons that don't matter anymore...

Anyway, should be available for people soon.

And on that note, I return to packing for WTAC! :D

Another thread including another blown EFR (EFR6258 - which was replaced by an EFR6758), but at least some otherwise decent performance results were measured from both: http://www.vxronline.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?121019-Aussie-GMAN-s-Astra-G-SRi-T&p=1825669&viewfull=1#post1825669

Did anyone consider that maybe he would love to share what happened but for what ever reason he just isnt allowed to?

Why is everyone so quick to assume these turbos are junk? So many things can go wrong and destroy a turbo without the turbo ever being at fault. Lets stop assuming and continue waiting for results.

SIerra sierra will be running a 9180 at superlap. That should be a good test as it is famous for killing turbos.

Why is everyone so quick to assume these turbos are junk?

Who is assuming they are junk? It is a discussion on BW turbos and that includes successes, failures and in this case possible failure.

Everyone wants to know what happened.

+1 Certainly no-one is saying they are junk.

However the limited shipments, if it comes out that a number of them are failing (even after testing)... That is an issue that needs attention & something that can be fixed.

Also sounds like BW customer support is 100x that of Garrett who simply don't care which is a much needed thing in the performance turbo world. Obviously just a pain in the a$$ that you potentially have a bit of a wait for another to arrive at the moment.

Well the Sierra Sierra Evo was clocked the fastest down the straight (280kph IIRC) with a 9180 on it.........They were accused by the Jap teams around them of running NOS (illegal)

....Who can knock Tarzan out of his tree next year?

Edited by Sub Boy32
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...