Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

John, what are you you running in your gtr anyway? You inspired me to go twin efr a few years ago but I never really know your whole story

Slightly off topic but some pics from last night's clean. Excuse the shit pics, crap phone and a couple of beers too many!

post-53650-0-36734600-1417387104_thumb.jpgpost-53650-0-34158500-1417387105_thumb.jpgpost-53650-0-08653600-1417387106_thumb.jpgpost-53650-0-58456600-1417387106_thumb.jpg

post-53650-0-92864100-1417387107_thumb.jpgpost-53650-0-65566400-1417387108_thumb.jpgpost-53650-0-51171200-1417387109_thumb.jpgpost-53650-0-24306800-1417387110_thumb.jpg

  • Like 3

Very nice, that wing is massive, what is it and where did you get it if you don't mind me asking :)

It's a custom job by Andrew at Custom Carbon Creations or CCC. Designed by Scott Beaton from Aero Design, the guy behind the WTAC rules.

I've recently cut it down 100mm each side also, was huge back then!

Did you get the proshonk stuff sorted?

Love the green wheels

Not yet, car is resting until next year now. I've ordered some replacement LCA's and just need to make new hats and dogbones to better space the rotor.

Thanks, matches the green roll cage also (can't really see that in the pics)

No twin scroll? :(

Im thinking about going to a 7163 and getting rid of my oil leaking FP green on my evo as FR have a lowmount kit out/coming out. I believe Geoff has 1 on his evo now.. Id love to hear how thats going and what fitment is like from Geoff. I wouldn't wanna sacrifice any response over the green even though i know its a 6lb bigger turbo..

Do it! The EFR7163 will blow the FP green out of the water....

All though it is a lot of money for not much more top end (if any)... Might be better to look at a twin scroll EFR7670??

Edited by Tonba
  • Like 1

Haha im pretty confident that the EFR will smoke the HTA. But i dont wanna sacrifice ANY response. Im not after top end at all Alex its the midrange & response i seek :) id also like to stay lowmount.

  • Like 1

To be honest id be happy with 330-350kw max but i just want the most responsive setup with most area under the curve i can. The green starts moving in lower gears at around 3700 that'd be as laggy as id like.. As you know Point to point there isn't much faster than an evo.. I want to keep to that recipe as much as possible with my car as it suits the style of driving i enjoy most. :)

To be honest id be happy with 330-350kw max but i just want the most responsive setup with most area under the curve i can. The green starts moving in lower gears at around 3700 that'd be as laggy as id like.. As you know Point to point there isn't much faster than an evo.. I want to keep to that recipe as much as possible with my car as it suits the style of driving i enjoy most. :)

How about you grab a 7163 or a 7064 and tell me if it's nicer than your GTX3071 :P Then maybe i'll chuck one on my 34...

I've seen a couple of tests where the 6258 doesn't really outspool the 6758 despite the smaller wheel and falling off much sooner. IIRC one comparison was on the ART silvia and the other was a Perrin test.

Given how fast the 6758 spools it doesnt matter too much, but still, anyone know what the deal is?

Edited by Skepticism

I don't know for sure what the story is there, I have seen ones where the 6258 comes on quicker but either way I do know and have before seen dyno plots which don't represent what happens in the real world - at least in terms of response. Might investigate but either way I see no reason in going smaller than a 6758 as a single turbo on something aftermarket

Is anyone running an EFR8374 with 0.92 A/R T4 twin scroll (internal wastegate) on an RB25/26?

What sort of power could be made with this turbo, WMI setup and other required supporting mods? I have not been able to find much info about actual results with this turbo.

Cheers

Justin

Is anyone running an EFR8374 with 0.92 A/R T4 twin scroll (internal wastegate) on an RB25/26?

What sort of power could be made with this turbo, WMI setup and other required supporting mods? I have not been able to find much info about actual results with this turbo.

Cheers

Justin

I'm running one on an RB30/26 ?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...