Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah man run that -5 on the track and get us some 1/4 mile results with logs. It's an exceptionally hot and humid summer here this year but when it cools I'll run the car some more.

@HarrisRacing - What exhaust manifold are you running, and what ID runners does it have?  

Skidz - anything involving corners throws HEAPS of variables into the game which make it next to impossible to compare turbo performance

13 minutes ago, Lithium said:

@HarrisRacing - What exhaust manifold are you running, and what ID runners does it have?  

Skidz - anything involving corners throws HEAPS of variables into the game which make it next to impossible to compare turbo performance

6boost IWG divided T4 for EFR. no clue on diameters but I'm sure I could ask Kyle.

24 minutes ago, mr skidz said:

Roll Racing sounds like something that doesn't require a steering wheel emoji14.png

Come next track day at Wakefield that trak-life & Yez Racing organise.. the September one is full unfortunately. $235 per car, untimed, unlimited track no sessions.

  • Like 1
@HarrisRacing - What exhaust manifold are you running, and what ID runners does it have?  

Skidz - anything involving corners throws HEAPS of variables into the game which make it next to impossible to compare turbo performance


I thought it was an invite to go have some fun not compare turbo's [emoji54]
Come next track day at Wakefield that trak-life & Yez Racing organise.. the September one is full unfortunately. $235 per car, untimed, unlimited track no sessions.

Will do definitely at some stage last time I went to Wakefield in my last Gtr I ended up spending the whole day in rear wheel drive ripping skids with the gtst boys got some footage of it somewhere.

But I think my first track day in this car will be at the creek as I know the creek really well from many bike sessions I've done over the years I've only been to Wakefield once so I'd be useless there and besides my car still uses completely stock brakes they're not the greatest I think we all know that but for the most part it's just my streetcar / daily nothing serious just a fun car.

damnit  just went to get you guys some logs + videos and popped the axle out hammering around the first turn. Gets violent with the 3 wheel drive. need to change the circlip on the axle.

3 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

There are people with results however they can't be bothered sharing. One of those people just pulled off their setup to go bigger lol

Hey not my fault I pulled it apart before everyone asked for stats!

I just wanna go fast

  • Like 1

^^ Looks pretty quick!

Took the liberty of converting my dyno data from 10 psi and 17 psi and putting in excel graphs. BLUE lines are data associated with 17 psi pull, RED lines are data associated with 11 psi pull. Boost is in PSI, but is multiplied by 10 for scaling purposes (so 100=10.0 psi and 200=20.0 psi).

Also I believe the turbo would have made 380-385 whp if revved to 8k rpms on the 11 psi pull...I was hesitant at first because this was literally the first dyno pull. It did make 371 whp at 7600 rpms though.

dyno 10 vs 17.JPG

  • Like 1

I'll get another dyno run done on this pump tune of mine out of curiosity , as my first dyno tune was over 1000rpm laggier than my current tune at 18psi when set to 25psi.
(Someone else tuned it as we needed load on the fresh engine)

Cool vids too I enjoyed watching them all
[emoji4][emoji108]





Hi :)

I have a question, what power can make 7670 1.05 on RB26 forged + cams + pb98? With no exceed 27psi?

Previously i wanna 8374 .92 but i look on HarrisRacing 2.75l RB and i think it be too laggy for stock capacity and daily drive. 7670 1.05 should spool 300-400 rpms faster? 

I just need 630 EU hp on crank :D

 

If going 7670 I would stick with a 2.6L and stock cams. Turbo will be at maximum speed for sure and you will need to add a road rage gauge to make sure you don't destroy it from overspinning. I wouldn't suggest running the boost over 20 psi over 7k rpms. I bet it will *just* make your HP number though. It would be a VERY fun daily driver.

Reason why I say stock cams is because you will start to choke that turbo on top end on the exhaust side and larger (ie-overlapping) cams will only make the backpressure contamination worse in the cylinder.

When I was comparing the 8374 to the 7670 I think I found that the 7670 should hit full boost 500 rpms sooner than the 8374 and make similar power up until around 7k where the 8374 will continue to feed the motor. Of course I was probably looking at 2.75L at the time so I'm sure a 7670 on stock cams and 2.6L is a good choice for a street car that occasionally wants to turn up the boost.

33 minutes ago, Snara said:

Hi :)

I have a question, what power can make 7670 1.05 on RB26 forged + cams + pb98? With no exceed 27psi?

Previously i wanna 8374 .92 but i look on HarrisRacing 2.75l RB and i think it be too laggy for stock capacity and daily drive. 7670 1.05 should spool 300-400 rpms faster? 

I just need 630 EU hp on crank :D

 

Someone might be able to correct me if my math is wrong, but @ 27psi, but that turbo is going to be out of the efficiency range for your setup. 

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...