Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G Day,

Would people mind sharing there opinion on the below 4 intercoolers I have narrowed down to install on my 34 GTT with 12psi, full turbo back zorst, cold air intake, plugs etc. Looking to chase 280-300ish rwkw in future.

1. Blitz return flow cooler - best one but expensive at $699 from just jap.

2. Cooling Pro return flow - Priced at $499, gold color is crap, is this a cheap china core with crap functionality above 250rwkw?

3. Cooling Pro non-return flow - same issues as above, - cheap china? plus have to trim fan, make hole in chasis for pipe on drivers side etc - cheapest of the lot at $399 from Just Jap

4. HDI - good value mid range cooler at $545 plus 50 postage (postage from where, I'm in Syd??), but its a non return flow - lag etc and have to trim fan, make hole in chasis etc..

So those are my views, what would people recommend / experiences etc??

thanks RON

post-49401-1288421222_thumb.jpg

post-49401-1288421231_thumb.jpg

post-49401-1288421263_thumb.jpg

post-49401-1288421277_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342439-intercooler-choice-for-r34-gt-t/
Share on other sites

all of those are suitable and a on mild GTT they are fine

you will incur some extra throttle lag no matter what core you fit - its physics

go the blitz one given its price as it saves cutting the chassis to fit extra pipes

Get the Blitz. Its not much more money anyway. I have an ARC turnflow on my R34 and Im glad i spent the extra money. Just the fact everything fit so nicely made it worth it. My friend brought some dodgy china kit for his and nothing lined up properly.

G Day,

Would people mind sharing there opinion on the below 4 intercoolers I have narrowed down to install on my 34 GTT with 12psi, full turbo back zorst, cold air intake, plugs etc. Looking to chase 280-300ish rwkw in future.

1. Blitz return flow cooler - best one but expensive at $699 from just jap.

2. Cooling Pro return flow - Priced at $499, gold color is crap, is this a cheap china core with crap functionality above 250rwkw?

3. Cooling Pro non-return flow - same issues as above, - cheap china? plus have to trim fan, make hole in chasis for pipe on drivers side etc - cheapest of the lot at $399 from Just Jap

4. HDI - good value mid range cooler at $545 plus 50 postage (postage from where, I'm in Syd??), but its a non return flow - lag etc and have to trim fan, make hole in chasis etc..

So those are my views, what would people recommend / experiences etc??

thanks RON

FYI the cooling pro return flow isnt a gold colour, the photo just makes it look that way, its silver/chrome like the others.

Justjap have the black option available on ebay;

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-Black-STEALTH-I...=item5640836293

Hey personally, i think go the Blitz Return flow cooler, with the cooling pro and HDI, its a hassle to cut the fan and make the hole n stuff... Speically while cutting the fan blades,ull have to cut it so much that it defers the purpose of that fan...

Save the extra buck and get the Blitz Return flow, easy to install and great performance...

if your not planning an rb26 or a front facing plenum deff go the blitz, will keep your engine bay very need, no need to chop the thermo fan and its a good price, i remember when you couldnt get a jap brand cooler kit for under 1k.

if your going front facing plenum later grab the hdi kit

Of course number 1 go blitz but the cooling pro return flow are proven to be good to they are not dodgy cheap chinese ones Ive gone 275kw with it and its not a probelm and alot of people have gone more its just abit more work when fitting doesnt line up aswell as blitz.

thanks for the amazing response guys, I guess everyone including myslef have no doubts that Blitz is the go here, just wanted to know if the cooling pro return flow is suited for 250 to max 300rwkw or does it start crapping itself.. Have read heaps on coolers with mixed response so still have a bit of attraction for the cooling pro return flow due to its price, but I guess u generally get what u pay for - though not always.. :P

  • 4 weeks later...
1. Blitz return flow cooler - best one but expensive at $699 from just jap.

For those in the know, is there any mechanical difference between Blitz SE and CS?

Just Jap site says "CS Coating For Alloy Corrosion Resistance" but is that worth the extra cost ($699 vs. $749)?

Also, does anyone sell these kits locally in Melbourne to save the P&P?

Thanks

I went to check these out, the blitz one does have much bigger dia pipes, the one that runs back under the cooler, we placed the cooling pro and blitz pipes side by side and its like half an inch bigger at least and tapers down to the same diameter at the ends..does that make a diff to throttle response?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...